If one hub was bad and the other was OK, It still wouldn't pull as the power would be going to the easiest to turn. May just be one hub having a problem. Taking them apart and cleaning is an easy job "in warm weather".

 

Best test it get the front off the ground and spin the tires. If the axle and drive shaft turns then the hub is locked. Or do like I did and get the Warns and never worry again.

 

The seals went out of mine. I plugged the vacuum lines at the hub and use the manual. Works fine, just hate getting out to lock or unlock.

 

Ray, where in MN are you? If you are in the Twin Cities, I may be able to meet with you and help you out.

 

Lenard, Thank You! for the offer, I am in Zumbro Falls. Maybe we could have a conversation over the phone though.

 

Ray, YGPM.

 

Hmm, the intial post leavs me wondering.
Ray, by manually locking the hubs (turn hard clockwise) you eliminate the need for the vacuum system. At this point turning the 4WD switch in the cab engages/disengages the transfer case to provide 4WD. You should easily be able to hear/feel the transfer case engage.

With hubs manually locked and in 2WD you will still see the front drive shaft spin when your rolling even if the trasfer case is not engaged because by locking the hubs manually (if the hubs work) you have "connected" the front wheels to the front drive shaft. Hard to do by yourself...be careful.

Putting the front of the truck in the air, in neutral, and spinning the front tires will tell you if your hubs are working. The drive shaft should spin when you do this test with your hubs manually locked and the truck in 2WD. If this test passes you need to start considering your transfer case function, starting with the solenoid per AustinS advise.

On my truck I needed to spray some WD40 on the hub switch to free it up, pretty gritty. That switch should rotate 30-40 degrees in range. Mine does not "clunk" or anything like my old WARN hubs when it actually engages. Just turn it hard and be satisfied both are rotating about the same amount. Also, my truck will not engage automagically below about 20 F, things get stiff and the vacuum won't cut it on its own, so I manually engage the hubs when cold. Not sure if this typical or if I have another project ahead of me...

Good luck with it. Nothing quite like automotive work in sub-zero temperatures.

-Mike

 

Thanks, Mike. Unfortunately when it rains it pours. Due to sub zero temps I had to leave my truck at work today, will not start. Has not given me a problem all winter and not it seems to NOT be getting fuel. I am suspicious that I let the tank get close to empty before filling it and now I have problems. So, hard to say when I will get to this stuff. :-) I ran the bat's dead trying to get it running. Good thing I have roadside assistance, I will be having it towed to a friend house where I can plug it in.

 

Fyi, I will post more info after I get the truck running again. :-)

 

Ray, have you got your truck running yet?

EDIT: Oops, posted before I refreshed the screen and saw your post Ray. Give me a call if you need help.

 

Still not running yet. Turns out I have no oil in the truck do to what might be the HPOP. Check out the pics.. :-)

http://www.ashworthhome.com/images/truck

I have another thread going to track this problem.

OOPS! Just realized we already talked on phone.

 

Check all you oil lines. I had a couple loosen on me. Through oil everywhere. Looked like I was in for a rebuild. Tightened the oil lines from the HPOP to the rail and hasn't leaked since.

 

Ray, it looks like the grease turd may be just gunk washed down from your valley by leaking oil/fuel. It is hard to tell from your pictures if your HPOP is leaking from the usual spot or from loose oil lines like Greg said. If you can, get someone to crank the engine while you watch the HPOP to see where the leak is coming from. At the same time, look to see where the fule leak is coming from also. It is probably the yellow drain valve like we discussed but you never know. Be careful not to have any articles of clothing that might get snagged in a spinning engine as you do this.

 

Ok, HPOP fixed, by replacing O-ring. Picked up truck today.

 

Now back to the ESOF/HUB problem. So, the temp went up to 32 today during another winter storm and now the ESOF is working just fine. So, at least the system works in warm weather. Next I will verify the position of the hub locks. Just need to see if they are actually in Auto or Locked. I will repost after checking this out. Basically it appears that the system just cant handle sub zero temps, something must be gunked up and sticking, no?