Here we go, My 96 F150 4.9 L6 would not start, and i recently replaced the starter, but figured why not replace it since it was under warrenty. Put it on still just a CLICK no turnover at all, then replaced the battery nothing, so on to the fender mounted solenoid, nothing checked the connections at the starter fixed the connector for the jumper wire, rest of the wire visualy looks ok, and u guessed it still nothing. I dont know if im missing something i just know at this point im about ready to get it towed but if anyone could give me an insight it would greatly be appreciated. Thank You.

 

Turn the headlights on, and then try to start it. Report back what the headlights do.

 

I would guess that you have a bad battery cable connector at the battery.
You need to replace the cable from the battery to the starter or cut the end off at the battery and replace the connector.
Hearing the click from the starter relay on the fender says it is working OK. You said that you replaced the connector at the other end of the relay wire to the starter solenoid so I would think that no power is getting to the starter solenoid from the battery.

 

Thanks to the both of you for your timely responses. Ok first to davef i tired what u said and the lights are good and strong when on but die when the key is turned to start, but come back on after the key is released from the start position. (don't know if any relavance but about a week ago i purchased a new headlight switch). And to subford yes i replaced the jumper wire connector (the one that has a push on connector. Also when i went to get the battery repaced i also changed both battery terminals, they were pretty old. About the rest of the wiring it is rainning today and the truck is outside, but if it stops will check, could i naybe use a test light to see if the positive wire is hot, i dont have any voltometer or anything fancy. Well thanks agian guys your insight on my problems are much appreciated

 

If the lights dim then you either have a bad connection at the battery post of the battery or the battery is bad or has a low charge.

Very rare but it could also be a locked up engine.
You could put the point of the test light on the center of the post and the clip on the connector and try to start it and if the test lights you have bad connection.
Also you can run a wire to the solenoid stud on the starter with the point of the test light in the center of the post of the battery and if it lights you have a bad cable. Also do this at each end of the ground cable.

 

Yes, the headlights going out is interesting and does tell us the voltage at the solenoid is dropping. We are using the headlights as a crude voltmeter.

You said you replaced the battery, so I hope it has a good charge. If you are not sure about that, put a little battery charger on it and make sure it's topped off.

I am trying to think of the best way to figure out where the bad cable or bad connection is, since I agree with subford if your battery is charged, then that sounds like what is wrong. I think what I would do is get a jumper cable. To test to make sure the ground cable is good, hook one end of the jumper cable to the battery neg (#2 in the diagram below), and the other end to #4. #4 can be any good clean piece of metal on the engine. Then try to start it.

If that doesn't work, put the jumper cable on the bat +(#1 in the diagram), and the other end on #3. Try to start it again.

If that doesn't work, then MAKE SURE THE TRUCK IS IN PARK OR NEUTRAL put one end of the cable on the bat +, and touch the other end to #6. As soon as you touch the cable, it should crank over. If it doesn't then I would suspect the cable from the starter to the solenoid may be bad. There is also a chance if there was a lot of grease and dirt in the starter area, it may no be making a good ground connection where it mounts.

 

Note that he does have the solenoid mounted on the starter with a heavy cable running from the starter to the positive post of battery.
Also a smaller cable running from the positive post to the starter relay on the fender. At this point the other electrical devices power branchs out and this is also the alternator charge point. From the other terminal of the relay there is a small wire going down to the starter solenoid.



/

 

Thanks for the post subford and franklin ill give the cable process u mentioned (Will jumpercables work?) Also I mentioned my problem to a friend of my father and he suggested the groound being bad. Now if it is the ground is attached to the frame my question is would i just create a ground for the starter mounted solenoid or fix the ground that already runs to it and back to the frame then to battery. well guys as soon as it stops rainning i post results from those test. Also wondering if i use a test light to see is there is juice goin to the starter could i just unbolt it from the bell housing and hold the starter while someone turns the key. I dont know if that good or electricution but as long as my hand arent touching any of the conncetions would that show anything. Well cya later and thanks for everythiing.

 

To test to make sure the ground cable is good, hook one end of the jumper cable to the battery neg (#2 in the diagram below), and the other end to #4. #4 can be any good clean piece of metal on the engine. Then try to start it.


I did that nothing just the click.

If that doesn't work, put the jumper cable on the bat +(#1 in the diagram), and the other end on #3. Try to start it again.


Did that nothing.

the last one 1 to 6 am a lil gunshy to try but i will and post but before i had a inquiry i have a volt reader and i used to check my battery its holding good. i then took it and attached the ground top post 2 on ur drawling and then to post 3 and there was a reading of 0 volts with key off then with key to start position only 5 volts. Next i attached the volt reader to the 2 post and then to the 6 post with key off it read 12 volts and the with the key to start it dropped to 5 volts. Started ranning again so didnt try ur last idea of 1 to 6 but when it stops will try. is that the same thing as using the screwdriver to bypass the solenoid. well tahnk you again udate as soon as the rain stops

 

The ground cable from the battery does not go to the frame. It goes to the engine block or starter mounting bolt.

 

Sub i could have been wrong, when done rainning will check and take pic, but until then did u read what i posted about the voltchecker on the solenoid, if so what would you conclude from that? agian thanks for all the help my next post will be for help gettin it to stop rainning lol thanks agian

 

The diagram with numbers is not right for your truck. That is why I posted a diagram below it.
Number 6/7 would be down on the starter solenoid (the big cable next to the push on connector) and not up on the relay.
If the lights dim that would say that the starter relay is working and would almost have to be the Battery Cables. If you have the ground cable hooked to the frame that would cause this problem you are having.

 

Yes, my diagram is causing confusion. You have a later model with the Gm style starter. Going over to the solenoid is leading you down a branch of the circuit that is not really in the loop.

You said you have a voltmeter, and it sounds like you know how to use it. Start poking around with again, but this time make sure you have two people, you to probe with the voltmeter, while someone trys to crank it. The problem will only show itself on the meter while the truck is trying to be started.

The first place is the battery post to post. Hold you meter on there and get someone to try to crank it. If the voltage drops really low, then your battey is low.

Then hold the meter on the bat neg, and move the positive probe onto the battery cable clamp.

Then move the neg probe from the battery to the engine block, and the positive probe to the positive battery cable clamp.

You you can't find any voltage drop while the truck is being cranked, the last place to probe would be the positive connection on the starter itself. Problem is, this is sort of hard to get to.

 

Ok fellows i was wrong about the ground it was messed up reground it with new 4ga wire to the eninge block then a ground from the block to the starter. the wiring diagrhamn sub put up isnt #ed so hope u can follow me trying to explain what my results are

1st Battery post & battery post = high 12v

2nd ( - ) battery post & starter relay ( the terminal with the smaller 12 -16 ga that goes from relay to spade terminal on the starter solenoid = 5v when key is in start position

3rd ( - ) battery post & starter relay ( the terminal with the multiple connections = mid 12v when key is in off position, and then drops to 5v when key is in start position.

4th ( - ) post on starter & ( + ) post on starter + 12v even when key is off and then drops to zero when in start position then when turned back off jumps back to 12v

5th Spade terminal on starter and ( - ) post on starter 2v when key is turned on

Hope that can shine some light. thanks guys

 

You need to do this one with the key in the start position.
This one does not say anything because of 3rd below.
Would need the infomation from 1st above but if 1st above is in start and is 12v then you have a bad battery cable from the + post to the relay and starter.