When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have had coils go out in the past and the last one took a while to locate as I was thinking I may have had one bad coil and maybe another with mositure that cleared up.
This time I was pulling my snowmobile trailer and the truck started to mis-fire and the CEL came on, I continued to my destation ~50 miles with it missing. I then had the codes read and Auto Zone said P0304, P0307 and P0301. I cleared the codes and with out pulling the trailer the light would not come back on but there is a mis-fire very noticable at idle. I picked up one coil and and replaced #4, still mis-fire, then the coil that was on #4 replaced with #7, still mis fire, then #1... check Plug #4 it did not look very good so I replaced it, (I replaced all plugs at 85K) other plugs looked okay.
Is it common for more then one coil to fail one after the other while driving? Not sure if the codes from autozone were pending from a while ago.
I am thinking about replacing all the plugs and coils as the originals have been the problem coils in the past.
within 1500 miles, i have had to replace 4 coils on my crown vic, and my nephew had 3 coils go within 400 miles on his 5.4.
i don't think one bad one makes the others go, i think is is just a coincidence that they go like that.
I had two leave me, in my case water had shorted two of them but not close ones. If it's an environmental cause, then what kills one will likely take out several more.
Truck still running rough and pulling the P0304 and P0307 but today it pulled a P0113 for the first time, "Intake Air Temperature Circuit High Input " Any ideas if this code is related or what causes it?
Truck still running rough and pulling the P0304 and P0307 but today it pulled a P0113 for the first time, "Intake Air Temperature Circuit High Input " Any ideas if this code is related or what causes it?
Thanks for any help!
I'd replace the sensor if cleaning the connection doesn't work. We used to clean the connections first then swap spares to see if there was an improvement. Usually fixed it.
I'd replace the sensor if cleaning the connection doesn't work. We used to clean the connections first then swap spares to see if there was an improvement. Usually fixed it.
Are you saying the intake Air Temperature sensor? Where is that loacted or what sensor are you referring to? Could this sensor cause misfires?
Are you saying the intake Air Temperature sensor? Where is that loacted or what sensor are you referring to? Could this sensor cause misfires?
Thanks
Yes the temp sensor. If any sensor sends the wrong signal you can get different maladies. Clean your sensors with MAF sensor cleaner because it doesn't leave any residue behind like throttle body cleaner. I would first clean it and then replace it if there was no difference. You'll find it located in the airstream components going to the intake.
Well I dropped the truck off at the dealer last night (wish I would have dropped it off a cliff). Anyway received a call today, No compression in #4, very little in #7 and #5.
Here are the options from the dealer...
1) continue to tear into the engine and find all that is wrong, they feel at least one head maybe lower engine damage on the side with zero compression?
2) there is a used engine at a local yard 80K miles, 90 day parts only warranty. $3100 installed.
3) Re-built Ford engine, 75K mile warranty. $4900 installed.
The one I like best but with 3' foot of snow on the ground and no time, do a swap myself.
Any thoughts??? And to think I almost traded it in last fall
90day warranty vs 75K for $1700 more, I would have to go with #3.
Cheaper than a new truck and a better warranty than a new one, too.
How many miles on yours now? Could be galled valve guides causing the valves to not close properly., But replacing the heads will cost about as much as complete engine will.
90day warranty vs 75K for $1700 more, I would have to go with #3.
Cheaper than a new truck and a better warranty than a new one, too.
How many miles on yours now? Could be galled valve guides causing the valves to not close properly., But replacing the heads will cost about as much as complete engine will.
Just under 110K, yea the dealer felt the labor and cost to repair would add up quick and the unknown could push it over the top. I just hate putting over 50% of the value of the trunk into repairs but without it there is very little value. Not sure what I will do yet need to decide soon, if I go with the re-build I may need to keep it a couple more years to re-coop some of the cost.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.