460 Rebuild
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Junior User
Joined: Dec 2000
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460 Rebuild
I am rebuilding a D1VE 460 block, hopefully not needing to be bored out, and the heads are casted D3VE as well as the intake. The engine will be built stock with the exception of a RV Cam and a full set of flat top pistons. here are my questions..
- Will I get around 8-10 MPG?
- Will I be able to burn pump gas?
- Is this a good setup since its a semi-daily driver/one to respectably do the 1/4?
- What will the compression be?
- Will it get the high compression/performance sound with the pinging in the exahust?
- What would the estimated HP be? it's a shortbox 2wd.
Just wondering if this sounds like a good setup or a mixed set of ideas thrown poorly together?
- Is it better to go stock pistons and an RV Cam or a stock cam advanced about 10 degrees and flat top pistons, or just build it stock for 1971?
Any help is appreciated! Thanx
- Will I get around 8-10 MPG?
- Will I be able to burn pump gas?
- Is this a good setup since its a semi-daily driver/one to respectably do the 1/4?
- What will the compression be?
- Will it get the high compression/performance sound with the pinging in the exahust?
- What would the estimated HP be? it's a shortbox 2wd.
Just wondering if this sounds like a good setup or a mixed set of ideas thrown poorly together?
- Is it better to go stock pistons and an RV Cam or a stock cam advanced about 10 degrees and flat top pistons, or just build it stock for 1971?
Any help is appreciated! Thanx
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 2,882
Likes: 0
From: Nevada
460 Rebuild
Not reboring the block will depend on if it can be honed for whichever rings you choose and remain in spec. This is very important.
Your compression will depend on which pistons you use. See your vendor for specs on that. For everyday driving without calibrating the ignition advance curve, I wouldn't go above 9.5-10.0:1. C/R will be the major factor on what hp/torque it will produce.
You should call tech lines at the major cam grinders and get a recommendation on cam grinds from them. You'll need to identify your intake manifold, carb, exhaust system, tire size, transmission, converter stall speed if an auto, differential ratio, weight of the vehicle and what you want from the setup. The term 3/4 cam doesn't mean much in this day and age; most applications are defined by idle quality, vacuum properties and what rpms you want for your power band.
The best advice anybody can give on putting an engine together is that you do some real planning on what you want it to do before you buy anything. Do your research and then double check your planning before you shell out the gold.
Your compression will depend on which pistons you use. See your vendor for specs on that. For everyday driving without calibrating the ignition advance curve, I wouldn't go above 9.5-10.0:1. C/R will be the major factor on what hp/torque it will produce.
You should call tech lines at the major cam grinders and get a recommendation on cam grinds from them. You'll need to identify your intake manifold, carb, exhaust system, tire size, transmission, converter stall speed if an auto, differential ratio, weight of the vehicle and what you want from the setup. The term 3/4 cam doesn't mean much in this day and age; most applications are defined by idle quality, vacuum properties and what rpms you want for your power band.
The best advice anybody can give on putting an engine together is that you do some real planning on what you want it to do before you buy anything. Do your research and then double check your planning before you shell out the gold.
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