Oil Pressure
Oil Pressure
Hey peeps,
Back to my POS FSB, I am having probs with oil pressure. When I am at a red light or something, the oil pressure drops to red line-which would mean the engine is about to lock up. When I accelerate, the oil pressure goes back up. Also, my tachometer fluctuates and the engine seems like its missing, even though it has new plugs and wires,when I am at a red light. It also seems to be sluggish when I take off from a stop. Any advice?
Back to my POS FSB, I am having probs with oil pressure. When I am at a red light or something, the oil pressure drops to red line-which would mean the engine is about to lock up. When I accelerate, the oil pressure goes back up. Also, my tachometer fluctuates and the engine seems like its missing, even though it has new plugs and wires,when I am at a red light. It also seems to be sluggish when I take off from a stop. Any advice?
My 93' 302 130,000k had a problem like yours where the oil pressure would drop at a stop light in warm weather mainly.It did this for a long time.I decided to switch to Castro high mileage 10w-30 oil(was using valvoline) and believe it or not it never did it after that.Also, I decided to switch back to a Motorcraft oil filter instead of the Fram.Others on this site recommeded the oil filter change.They say they are made different.As far as it missing, did you check the timing.This would cause hesitation.Also, I ought a bad set of new plug wires on this same truck.Thought I'd do a tune-up and ended up creating problems.New wires were arcing like crazy.Went back and store gave me a new set.What about cap and rotor?
Well I was having the same problem with my 5.0L Bronco. I had parked it and pulled the engine out as a idle it would not put out enough volume. It had acted like it was missing and trying to stall at red lights on me to. The red engine light even flashed. After engine was pulled found out that the pump was not pumping enough volume and cause the crank to be damaged and main bearings. Had to replace crank, rod bearings, main bearings, and pump as there was medal in the bottem of pan and bearings worn pass the copper. Get it checked QUICK. Also replace the std. pump with a HIGH VOLUME pump.
Op what year? motor? mods? color? just kidding on the color!! If it is the stock
gauge I wouldn't put too much trust in it reading correctly anyhow. A real pressure
gauge even for temporary will give a better idea of what is happening!!
gauge I wouldn't put too much trust in it reading correctly anyhow. A real pressure
gauge even for temporary will give a better idea of what is happening!!
The gauge is a fake, its a switch with a resistor to give a normal reading at any oil pressure. So its either on or its off, go buy an after market gauge.
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Originally Posted by BroncoChris88
you explain to me how it is fake? I have a man. gauge and electronic gives the same reading so you explain to me how it is a fake?
The stock one is more of just a switch... 5 psi or less, and it shows nothing. 6 psi or more and it registers. Its an idiot light dressed up as a guage.
Got it?
No because if I hook up my NGS which is a FORD CERT. TOOL that only dealers have you can pull up the readings through it. The tool will tell you what your pressure is at the switch. I only recommended a man. gauge because the tool is about 2 grand.
Originally Posted by BroncoChris88
No because if I hook up my NGS which is a FORD CERT. TOOL that only dealers have you can pull up the readings through it. The tool will tell you what your pressure is at the switch. I only recommended a man. gauge because the tool is about 2 grand.
Originally Posted by BroncoChris88
It is a pressure switch.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/2...-the-deal.html
Looks like 1986 was the change over to the switch type idiot light gauge. Therefore a false reading on the factory oil pressure gauge. My understanding is ford did this because of the consumer complaints of low oil pressure readings - Nice! Should be a TSB on this as well.
Last edited by bossind; Jan 28, 2008 at 09:58 PM.
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