OK, so it looks like I will be rebuilding the carb on the old girl. My question is how difficult is this to do?

She is an '84 F-150, 351W HO with the Holley 4bbl. 4180, IIRC. I was looking at just replacing it and found one at AutoZone for about $380. I did find a rebuilt one from a place in Florida for $199, but I kinda like to get stuff like that from local places I can return them to if I have problems. But, since I don't have the extra money right now, I was thinking about a rebuild since the rebuild kits aren't bad at all.

But, I have never tried to rebuild one before. I know someone mentioned on another thread I put up that they weren't too bad, but I can't remember what that person said about it. I can build just about anything. I work on computers and have done most work on my '89 Isuzu Trooper, except for major stuff. I am pretty saavy when it comes to mechanical stuff, and have replaced carbs on a couple of trucks before but rebuilding one is new to me.

So, would I be better off just paying someone to do it when I get the money or is this something I can do myself? I have a basement shop I use for my woodworking that has a big workbench I can spread stuff out on, so that isn't a problem, but conditions in my vehicle "shop" for working on stuff depends solely on the weather, if you know what I mean!

 

The last kit I bought for a 4180 was $95. The main problem is that until 1992 Holley didn't install Power Valve blowout protection. If your rebuilding a 4180 you really need to install that blowout protection. About $10. Many of the 4180s used 2 stage Power Valves that don't come in the kit. They are around $35. So you will be facing about $135 in parts.
As for rebuilding them they are pretty easy. But I'm a retired mechanic. If you don't have to smog then you can buy a NEW 4160 Holley which will be a direct bolt on & even has the kickdown for C-6 automatic trans. included, from Jegs.com or Summit.com for around $265.

 

That's what I would do.

 

jon look at the part number for that kit and let me know what it is plz i have 351w ho 4bbl carb that needs rebuildin i bought the kit and it was only 35.58 for it and wdf is a power valve????

 

This link: http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us...rInfoPages.htm covers the carburetors used on the 80-86 trucks. It'll answer a lot of your questions. You don't have to soak carburetors in a vat of cleaner, the spray cans work really well. What you must do is get the cleaner in all the passages , let it sit for a while, and then blow out with compressed air. Get the correct kit (Holley and Walker are both good) and the right power valve for your carburetor P/N or Holley list#. Power valves (also known as economizer or enrichment valves) get blown (diaphram ruptured) due to backfires through the carburetor although that is not the only failure mode. Some corrode/rust or get trash or sediment to the point they no longer function--I've seen them stuck both wide open and completely shut.

 

can somone post a picture of this power valve and did the 78 bronco with a 400 have it, carb # , i found this under the bottom cover of my carb.. is this a power valve? adn how do i check it to make sure its good?

 

Yes, that is the power valve, if I remember correctly the way to check the valve is with vacuum pressure. The size of the valve, say it is a 6, should open when the engine vacuum pressure drops to 6. Not sure of a bench test but there probably is a way.

 

Just make sure the diaphragm is not ruptured. If it is, it will leak fuel and make the engine run rich all the time.

A simplified version of how it works; A carb works like a spray gun or a cheap sandblaster. Air flowing through the carb into the engine creates a venturi affect, and draws the fuel from the fuel bowel through the main jets and into the engine. The higher the engine speed, the more air and the more fuel is drawn into the engine. The problem comes when you start pulling a hill. You push down on the gas to climb the hill, but the engine rpm does not rise. As you are pulling the hill the engine rpm stays the same or usually falls. So the airflow through the engine is staying the same or decreasing, so you cannot get anymore fuel from the venturi affect. So the power valve opens in this situation, which opens a passageway for fuel to bypass the jets and let more fuel into the engine.

 

well i sucked on it slightly and it made the thing go up and down so the diaphram is good..


Ray

 

Holley has a pretty good website with technical help but it's a pretty basic description of the carbs. Doesn't give all the specs needed to fine tune it but I found it to be a lot of help.

 

Thanks for the quick replies. I am not that familiar with Ford carbs, so I really need to make sure of what I have before I go too much further. There is a blue tag on the carb with 4B14 stamped on it. I was told once it was the 4180, but it could be the 4160. If I read these posts correctly, they are very similar. I may be able to swing a new 4160 soon enough, so that may be the way I go.

Here's a picture of it (right after I brought it home - it HAS been cleaned up since then!)



So, can anyone verify which I have based on this information? Thanks in advance!

 

I would think the original carb would have a large external bowel vent coming out of the top front of the carb. I don' see one, so I don;t know what you have. Holley puts their numbers on the choke horn. Looking at the picture above, in the middle of the carb you have the stud that holds the aircleaner. Drop down a little bit and you will see a pipe sticking up. This is the bowel vent. Move to the right of this vent, and on the vertical face of the metal is where the numbers are stamped. Yours is very dirty and silver looking in this area.

 

My 83 F350 w/460 has a 4180 with no vents to a canister. If the truck GVWR is over 8600 LBS (I think) it didnt have to be equipped with canisters. The fuel input fitting looks different than on mine, so possibly it is a 4160 or 4165. If you can get the Ford carb part# (example: E4TE-9510-xx) or the Holley List# (example: 50004) someone should be able to identify it exactly. If not contact Holley's on-line technical service with te numbers and have them identify it for you. The Holley folks can also tell you the proper power valve, jet sizes, repair kit no., etc.

 

Interesting info. I have an 1986 F250 4x4 460 with 8600# GVW & mine came with the vent tubes & canisters, but only a single air pump. After thinking mine was a California truck. Yet most California trucks I have seen of that year had dual air pumps.
That carb can't be a 4165 for they were spreadbore with mechanical secondaries. That one has Vacuum. The 4175 was the upgrade of the 4165 with vacuum secondaries. But it isn't that carb I have one on my 360 Dodge. The secondary housing top can be removed without taking the whole housing loose. They are basically quick change from the factory. It looks like it could be a 4180 from some of the vacuum lines but I agree the fuel inlet isn't correct. I believe the were metal lines that screwed to the carb. Someone has added rubber line.

 

And that is where I am confused as well. When I went to get a fuel filter for it, the one they gave me wouldn't fit. I looked up every concieveable one I could find and no fit. Turns out someone had put a filter for a lawnmower in the line. So, I don't know what carb I have or if modifications have been made or what. I wonder if someone rigged an inlet for this one at some point.

For all I know they put another intake as well. If they did that, I have no clue what to do. I don't have a problem replacing the carb (I would prefer it, actually), but money was the issue, which is why I was wondering about a rebuild. I had assumed I had the 4180, but after reading the posts here, I am not sure what I have.

I will have to look to see if I can find the numbers on it so I will know exactly what I am dealing with. If it has the same intake it cme with, I am probably going to get another carb and be done with this one.

Does the 4160 have the same fuel inlet as the 4180?