re-ringing
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 4,968
Likes: 3
From: So Cal
re-ringing
Replacing the rear seal, re-ringing the engine and doing the valve guides is all doable with the engine in the truck, but if you have an oil consumption problem and you need to do these three jobs, it probably makes better sense to either... 1) Yank the engine and rebuild it right; 2) Yank it and drop in a new/rebuilt or low mile junkyard special.
Once the heads are off the engine, required to re-ring or do the valves, pulling the engine and rebuilding is just another step away. It also saves your back from having to hunch over all day to do the ring job.
Re-ringing was fairly common according to the reading I did from magazines from the 50s, I'm not that old but do have some old mags. You would pull the heads, send them out for work and pull the pistons and put new rings on them. You would also use a cylinder hone if you wanted to "do it right". You wouldn't have to drop the crank or cam which is basically all that was left for a full rebuild, other than machine work. So I guess you saved some money.
If you are doing all the work yourself(other than machining) and can spare the extra time and money, I would recommend a complete rebuild versus just re-ringing. But for a "quick and Dirty" a quick ring and valve job are doable with the engine in the truck.
Good Luck,
Jim Henderson
Once the heads are off the engine, required to re-ring or do the valves, pulling the engine and rebuilding is just another step away. It also saves your back from having to hunch over all day to do the ring job.
Re-ringing was fairly common according to the reading I did from magazines from the 50s, I'm not that old but do have some old mags. You would pull the heads, send them out for work and pull the pistons and put new rings on them. You would also use a cylinder hone if you wanted to "do it right". You wouldn't have to drop the crank or cam which is basically all that was left for a full rebuild, other than machine work. So I guess you saved some money.
If you are doing all the work yourself(other than machining) and can spare the extra time and money, I would recommend a complete rebuild versus just re-ringing. But for a "quick and Dirty" a quick ring and valve job are doable with the engine in the truck.
Good Luck,
Jim Henderson
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 4,968
Likes: 3
From: So Cal
re-ringing
I don't think I really answered your question. Re-ringing requires you to pull the heads, drop the oil pan, remove the piston rods(You might need a ridge reamer to get the pistons past any ridge at the top of the cylinder).
Once the pistons are in your hands, you need to inspect them to see if they are still in spec and then clean them and put new rings on(Be SURE to gap them). Use a ring compressor, put some rubber covers over the piston rod bolts and push the pistons back in the cylinder. Button it all back up and you are done.
The valve guides are probably a job for a shop, but you have to pull the heads anyway to get to the rings.
The rear main seal kind of depends on the engine. I have no experience messing around with modern Ford engines(I do have a "hobby" 64 260 small block, Baby bro to the 289/302) so don't quote me but I think most of them can have the rear seal replaced while sitting in the truck. I think you will need to drop the tranny.
Good Luck,
Jim Henderson
Once the pistons are in your hands, you need to inspect them to see if they are still in spec and then clean them and put new rings on(Be SURE to gap them). Use a ring compressor, put some rubber covers over the piston rod bolts and push the pistons back in the cylinder. Button it all back up and you are done.
The valve guides are probably a job for a shop, but you have to pull the heads anyway to get to the rings.
The rear main seal kind of depends on the engine. I have no experience messing around with modern Ford engines(I do have a "hobby" 64 260 small block, Baby bro to the 289/302) so don't quote me but I think most of them can have the rear seal replaced while sitting in the truck. I think you will need to drop the tranny.
Good Luck,
Jim Henderson
Mountain Pass
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 241
Likes: 2
From: Holland, Michigan
re-ringing
If it were me, I'd just say to rebuild it. You'd be far better off, and you'd be doing it right. You can replace the rear main while in the vehicle, but you have to remove the rear main cap and then try and push the new seal through...or just drop the crank with it in the vehicle. Which if you do that, the all you'd have in the vehicle is the block and cam...which would be VERY easy to pull and rebuild properly.
TBirdGuy
TBirdGuy
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 6,748
Likes: 118
From: Tallassee, ALabama
re-ringing
If your rear seal is not the rope kind, then....
Replacing the rear seal is not as easy as it use to be with the old 'rope' seals. The rubber seal is by far hard to try and rotate in than it sounds. you would damn near have to take the crank out to do it right.
As to rebuilding the engine? How mechanically inclined are you and how many tools do you have? Do you have means to pull the engine, such as a hoist? I'd consider a rebuilt engine these days. One with a warranty from someone like NAPA, Autozone, Jasper, etc. Maybe Ford also.
Replacing the rear seal is not as easy as it use to be with the old 'rope' seals. The rubber seal is by far hard to try and rotate in than it sounds. you would damn near have to take the crank out to do it right.
As to rebuilding the engine? How mechanically inclined are you and how many tools do you have? Do you have means to pull the engine, such as a hoist? I'd consider a rebuilt engine these days. One with a warranty from someone like NAPA, Autozone, Jasper, etc. Maybe Ford also.
