turbo psi??
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Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 30
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turbo psi??
My 99 f350 is only putting out about 15psi boost when I get on it. This is what the egde readout is showing. Just wondering what the boost psi is supposed to be. What can I do to increase the boost. The truck has 172,000 miles on it. Looked at the compressor wheel and it has a few knicks on the vanes. The shaft also has a very small amount of play. Is the turbo worth rebuilding and is this something I could do myself? If so, where is the best place to get parts?? If I do rebuild, should I go with an aftermarket wheel?
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 473
Likes: 3
From: Issaquah, WA
You should be able to build boost into the low 20s w/o a problem. Without a boost fooler it will de-fuel around 22.5 psi. Check you boots (6 ea) and up-pipes (both ends). Assuming the nicks on the turbo are small and few, I'd chase leaks first, turbo second. Very small amount of play is normal. You may just want to put on a new wheel. Look into a Wicked Wheel if you go that route.
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,852
Likes: 1
From: Sonoita Hills, AZ
Typically when boost drops off, you need to check your boost tube connections, especially on the Y pipe, the up pipes might be rusting through too. Check to make sure all your clamps are tight, and look for cracks in tubes.
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 473
Likes: 3
From: Issaquah, WA
Turbo Shaft End play spec is 0.02 - .1 mm
RE low boost, you might also try unhooking your wastegate pressure line (red) and see what numbers you get.
As for balancing, seems half do and half don't.
RE low boost, you might also try unhooking your wastegate pressure line (red) and see what numbers you get.
As for balancing, seems half do and half don't.
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 473
Likes: 3
From: Issaquah, WA
Bearing Clearance Check
When bearing damage is suspected, verify using the following procedure.
Check for Free Rotation
NOTE: Turbine and compressor wheels must spin freely when turned by hand. No housing contact is permitted.
Press and rotate the radial shaft, then repeat from the opposite side. If either the compressor wheel or the turbine wheel contacts the housing, the bearings are bad, and the turbocharger must be replaced.
Check Axial End Play
NOTE: Radial shaft movement cannot readily be measured on this turbocharger.
Position the dial indicator on the turbine end of the radial shaft and zero the indicator.
Move the radial shaft back and forth by hand and record the reading.
If readings exceed specifications, replace the turbocharger.
When bearing damage is suspected, verify using the following procedure.
Check for Free Rotation
NOTE: Turbine and compressor wheels must spin freely when turned by hand. No housing contact is permitted.
Press and rotate the radial shaft, then repeat from the opposite side. If either the compressor wheel or the turbine wheel contacts the housing, the bearings are bad, and the turbocharger must be replaced.
Check Axial End Play
NOTE: Radial shaft movement cannot readily be measured on this turbocharger.
Position the dial indicator on the turbine end of the radial shaft and zero the indicator.
Move the radial shaft back and forth by hand and record the reading.
If readings exceed specifications, replace the turbocharger.
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 690
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From: Greenwood, SC
i am making 24.5 psi easily with a "boost tube" on the 80 econo DP tuner setting and a wicked wheel. however, when i turn it up to 120 it then de-fuels at 24.9 psi and i drop off to 14 psi. Next week i am going to purchase an ITP overboost Annihilator and see just how much boost i can get out of her on the 120 setting!!
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Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 14,541
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From: Dallas-Ft. Worth
With the colder weather, I can get 26-27psi out of mine with the WW. In the summer, I top out around 25. Before the WW, I could get 28ish in the summer, but it surged BADLY. The WW fixed the problem and sounds very cool to boot. Oh, and all this is with my DP on 120R with the wastegate (red) line pulled and ITP OBA installed.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
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From: 21791
If you have a stock truck, then 15 psi i not a "bad" number. You could be losing 2-3psi by a somewhat leaky up-pipe or both, or a boost leak at any of the connections. I wouldn't worry about it if you were stock. They were designed slow from the factory.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
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From: 21791
You cant really make more boost without adding fuel, via some sort of tune. You can however eliminate the wastegate by finding the small 1/8" pressure line (red) going to a gold canister at the rear/top side of the compressor. remove the line and the elbow, and plug it on an intercooler boot clamp.
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 473
Likes: 3
From: Issaquah, WA
Mucking with your turbo is not going to get you bang for the buck until your well into PMS. I'm assuming you are using a performance setting on your Edge when you state your boost numbers. If so, 15 psi is not good. How did that leak inspection go??
Kris - Where's your bang for the buck list....?
Kris - Where's your bang for the buck list....?
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
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From: 21791
New User
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 4
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From: upstate NY
Hi guys, I'm new to this forum business. Just bought a used 2000 F-450 auto, with 66k on it. Its a dump that weighs 10,000 empty and seems to be tricked up a little bit. It has a 5 inch exhaust system and a sticker under the hood referring to the "Airaid" components installed. I can't find anything under the hood that doesn't look like Ford, air cleaner included. I checked the chip in the computer, that is Ford too. I am most concerned with pulling power as I will be hauling a trailer w/ backhoe that totals another 8500 pounds. Diesels are new to me so I am wondering: should I just leave this alone? is a computer chip going to make this pull better? Looking for opinions.