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Old Jan 24, 2008 | 04:32 PM
  #16  
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Skandocious
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From: Davis & Newcastle, CA
Originally Posted by dixokai
Isn't it recommended as a general maintenance after so many miles?
Yes sir, they're just one of those parts that inevitably goes bad at one time or another. Super easy replacement and not too expensive either. But before anything PULL THE CODES! It's easy and totally free
 
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Old Jan 24, 2008 | 06:15 PM
  #17  
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EGR can also lower your fuel economy if it's not working properly. Throttle position sensor too.
Check if your computer has stored any codes (Autozone will do it for free).
 
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Old Jan 24, 2008 | 06:26 PM
  #18  
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put a meat thermometer in your rad.
if the temp is not coming up the comp. will keep it running rich
may need a thermostat
 
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Old Jan 24, 2008 | 07:14 PM
  #19  
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I've been using 2 ounces of acetone and 4 ounces of marvel mystery oil to 10 gals of gas in a 1995 e 250 4.9 mileage went from 12to 14.4-she's a loaded down work van heavy!!!!every little bit helps!!!drive over 100 miles round trip 5 days a week gas bills read like the national debt----
 
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Old Jan 24, 2008 | 07:15 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by 66F100Again
Check if your computer has stored any codes (Autozone will do it for free).
Auto Zone will only do OBD-2 (96 and above)

Ford trucks 1995 and older are OBD-1


You can easily check your own codes with the information found at this site....

http://fordfuelinjection.com/
 

Last edited by netscaner; Jan 24, 2008 at 07:20 PM.
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Old Jan 24, 2008 | 07:22 PM
  #21  
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The o2 sensor is something that should be changed every couple of years, whether you get a "check engine" light or not. You will always notice an improvement in mileage after replacing the sensor, it can be small or big, depending on how bad the old sensor was.

Another thing to check for is vacuum leaks. Any leak will increase exhaust temperature, which will be sensed by the o2 sensor. The computer will compensate by adding more fuel to bring the temperature down.

My '95 F-250 4x4 5.8 (3.55, 265 85/16 tires) averaged 14 mpg in town, and 17 plus on the highway. The only mods were no cat, dual exhaust, and a K&N filter.
 
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Old Jan 24, 2008 | 07:24 PM
  #22  
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If you don't want to go through the hassle of pulling codes without a reader, I got mine at Schucks for about 30 bucks. I would highly recomend getting one. On the package it says that it does not work with trucks over 8500 GVW, but it works perfectly on my F250 with 8600 GVW and I have been using it for six months.
 
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Old Jan 24, 2008 | 07:24 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by mhg
put a meat thermometer in your rad.
if the temp is not coming up the comp. will keep it running rich
may need a thermostat
I think your on to somthing there.
 
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Old Jan 24, 2008 | 08:12 PM
  #24  
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I will look into the temp thing. As said above I have pulled the codes, I'm going to change the 02 and maybe the t-stat this weekend. I'm currently running an Idaho t-stat (cardboard in front of the rad.) I'll also take Chris' advice and clean the EGR. CE will flicker on below zero temps and it's an EGR code.
 
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Old Jan 24, 2008 | 09:24 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by 66F100Again
\
Check if your computer has stored any codes (Autozone will do it for free).
The auto zone where I live says they can only do 97 and up
 
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Old Jan 24, 2008 | 11:15 PM
  #26  
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I had a similar issue with a '93 Bronco 351w that I owned. It ended up being the fuel pressure regulator. No codes came up, but gas mileage kept going down. It was ridiculous. I changed the fuel pressure regulator and 02 sensor and everything was back to normal.

Something to think about.
 
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Old Jan 24, 2008 | 11:38 PM
  #27  
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I just helped a friend replace a fuel pump on his 91 Explorer, it was doing the same thing, he tried all the same things you are trying, and as soon as I came over to his house and heard his fuel pump, we spent 5 hours playing with it, it was snowing and cold, but thats the best time to work on them anyway.
 
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Old Jan 24, 2008 | 11:53 PM
  #28  
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I think the auto parts stores can only deal with OBD-II automotive computers. I don't really see why they can't read ours. If you need an OBD-I / EEC-IV code reader get a digital one instead of the one that you have to interpret the flashing light. That one is a pain in the ***. I just got a newer style one with digital display on ebay for $25. Here is the ebay item number. 250209618408 Not only is it far easier to read and understand, but it will store the codes so you don't have to write them down.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FORD-...spagenameZWDVW

I agree with the oxygen sensor. If it has never been replaced it definitely needs to be. Even if its been several years replace it again. I got a Bosch one from Autozone for about 45-50 bucks. I don't know where you found one for 80 but thats way too high. If you get one from Autozone just make sure you get a Bosch OE style and not the universal one. The OE style one will plug into your truck's harness. The universal one required cutting and splicing wires.
 

Last edited by TexasGuy001; Jan 24, 2008 at 11:55 PM.
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Old Jan 25, 2008 | 07:43 AM
  #29  
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you know i remember seeing in a manual that you can check codes with a digital electric tester-and count the sweeps on the scale-will look back through the 20 or so i have and try to find it!!may work in a pinch
 
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Old Jan 25, 2008 | 10:53 AM
  #30  
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From: Solon, Ohio
Originally Posted by jr32560
you know i remember seeing in a manual that you can check codes with a digital electric tester-and count the sweeps on the scale-will look back through the 20 or so i have and try to find it!!may work in a pinch
Scan up a few posts in this thread...................I already posted a site with that info.

Click on "How to do a self test" on the list of items on the right side of the page.

Many Haynes manuals also have that info in their "Emission Control Systems)
chapters.
 

Last edited by netscaner; Jan 25, 2008 at 10:57 AM.
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