This is my first 4x4 I have owned it for 4 years now and untill now have had no problems with the 4wd. I posted early in the week about a ratcheting nois in the left front. after listening to the great suggestions from you guys here I have been able to make this issue intermittent by repeated in and out of 4wd.

I would like to take the left hub apart and clean and inspect the parts before I just change out my auto hubs for manual hubs. I need to know how it works and what the approprit lubrication method and media is for these parts.

any help would be great....

 

I can't tell you how the auto hubs work, my current truck is my first 4x4 as well. I would suggest that you contact your nearest Warn Hub distributor, only because they had a packet that they sent \ gave to me that clearly explains how all variations of hubs work for your vehicle. Pick what ever brand you want, but the packet was worth the phone call, and i think that all Warn dealers offer these, after all they want to sell their product.

 

The is how I understand that the auto hubs work. I'm no mech or technician, but have a good understanding of how things work.

There is a clutch inside of the auto hub. There is an inner piece that is mated with the axleshaft. And an outer piece mated with the wheel(hub).
When you engage the transfercase the front axles spin at the same speed as the rear. When the rear wheels loose traction, the front axleshafts spin faster than the front wheels. The clutch inside the auto hub engages and puts power to those wheels.
Does that make any sense?
Just my take on how things work.

 

ALZ it does make sense to some degree, the spinning faster part confuses me, but that is ok. what I really need is internal part descriptions and how they work together so I can take it apart clean inspect for damage that would cause my problem, or maybee it is just because it needs to be cleaned and lubricated. I dont know what kind of or how much lub to put in there.

 

kinda sorta but not really...the hubs lock when the axle gets power mechanically...has nothing to do with rear wheel slipping. ok...it works on centrifical force...the best way to describe it as little moving spurs on the axle...when the vehicle is not in 4x4 the axle sits still in the hub...the spurs have no cent. force on them so they stay tight against the axle allowing the wheel to spin unconected to the axle...now when 4x4 is engaged the axle starts spinning inside the hub and the cent. force of the spinning motion makes the spurs pop out and and grab the hub...thus engaging the 4x4. (thats for the auto hubs anyway) Manuals operate completely different....im assuming your speaking of the auto hubs that came stock on many of our trucks??

Its not difficult...I say just do one side at a time that way if you get stuck you can always go to the other side and look at it... inspect for parts that look damaged or broken...they are usually not to difficult to notice...I always used a good quality marine wheel bearing grease as I beat mine offroad in the mud...but any good quality wheel bearing grease will do...I make sure everything has a good amount of grease on it as im assembling it and button everything up.

 

another tip...do the one side that is good first so you know what everything is SUPPOSED to look like and be set up...that way when you dig into the bad side its easier to spot the broken stuff and youll know exactly how its supposed to be installed after you get the broken stuff out...

and by the way...installing a set a warn premium manuals its a lot easier then installing the auto hubs...so if you going to take it all apart I highly suggest just going that route...they are much stronger and will last a lot longer as well. and they are not that expensive...cheaper then the stock autos...

 

Cody, you are probably right. I've never actually taken on apart to see how it actually engages. But I do know that the auto hubs don't technically engage until the axlshaft spins faster than the wheel it is in. You could drive down the road in 4x4 with the hubs not actually engaged, not until the rear wheel loose some traction.

 

no offense im not trying to shoot you down but it has nothing to do with the wheel speed only axle speed...you are partly correct...the spurs are only actuated by a spining axle....if axle doesnt spin no centrifical force is made to have the spurs pop out (this is how the wheel can spin in two wheel drive...the axle isnt spinning)...as soon as the axle spins the spurs pop out because of the centrifical force of the axle spinning(4x4)...heres how it works...when you stop at a light the axles stop spinning this causes the hubs to unlock but as soon as you let off the brake and the axle spins again its centrifical force makes it lock back in....so technically if you are moving in 4x4 the hubs are locked in...the only time they are not is when you are at a complete stop then the axles arent moving...it all depends on wether the front axle is spinning or not inside the hub...if the axle is not moving its not engaged but as soon as the axle moves (regards of wheel speed) it engages...if you dont believe me go out on a snowy/icey road and see what happens...well I didnt tell you to do that....do it SAFELY!!!

oh and yes this is why its not good to rock these hubs when stuck or stomp it from a dead stop in 4x4...because at a dead stop the hub is unlocked but as soon as you stomp it the axle spins and causes the hubs to lock...all that force suddenly locking in causes these autos to break... but thats kinda off subject...

Good Luck with your repair.