When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Ok I picked up a new 1976 f150. It has a 390 4v and headers. It doesnt start. I got it cheap for what it looks like ($350) its got a straight body. Ok I am getting fuel. It has a edlebrock carb and I am smelling fuel. I got the truck home and tried to crank it and it sounded like it was gonna almost fire. I pulled out manual and checked plug wires. The were set for a 351. I fixed them to how a fe was supposed to be and now it just cranks. It doesnt crank all the way after what sounds like 1 rpm it hesitates then speeds up around again. The battery is GOOD. I am getting fuel and almost 100% positive that the problem is ignition. Can someone push me in the right direction.
Pull the coil wire from the distributor cap and hold it about 1/4" away from the engine block. Crank the engine and watch, you want to see a blue arc jump that gap.
Sounds like the distributor was installed wrong, or the timing chain may have jumped time.
not sure what you mean by index??? But yeah I was thinking it skipped a tooth. I pulled the coil wire off the dizzy and it sparked blue. The problem is I am going away for a week and a half. I want it good for when I get home. I am thinking bout just taking it to a shop. Is the fe motor a interfearence motor? IE valves being able to hit the pistons? Either way I am thinking I am just gonna have a local shop mess with it while I am gone. Unless there is a relatively fast/easy to check/fix before I leave.
Pull all the plugs, mark the #1 spark terminal position on the side of the distributor, remove the cap, remove the passenger side valve cover.
Turn the crank by hand to bring #1 up on the compression stroke, stop the damper with "TDC" under the pointer:
#1 piston should be at the top of it's dwell.
Both valves on #1 should be closed.
The distributor rotor should be pointing at the mark you made on the housing.
Turn the crank all you want while you check these events, but they all should index when #1 is at the top of the compression (not exhaust) stroke.
OK I got home at noo and have been messing with it all day. I pulled the dizzy and set motor to #1 tdc. Cranked and no dice. the motor DID however turn freely. I thought it musta been 180 out so I redid only 180* differently. Same results. I rechecked plug order. I pulled a plug wire and hooked it to a plug and very weak spark. I had a new msd blaster 2 coil. I put that on and now a strong spark but I am confussed on what I should do next. Please help push me in a new direction.
NO i DONT HAVE A COMPRESSION TESTER. Sorry for caps. I am leaving for a week tomarrow so I really havent meesed around with it too much. That is what I was thinking but was hoping not gonna be that!. Why would fuel spray out of the top of my carb?
The needle valve is stuck open or the float is out of adjustment.
Pulled the dizzy and indexed the engine? I hope you did that in reverse of what you said. The whole point of indexing is to see where the dizzy and valves are before you change anything.
If the dizzy and valves are off, the timing chain slipped and the valves are out of time.
If just the dizzy is off, someone may have had a boo-boo while installing it.
If you bring the #1 piston to the top of it's dwell and the timing pointer is not on TDC, the damper ring has moved.
If you are not getting any compression while cranking, I would suspect the valves are out of time. What ever the case, it will still be there when you get home.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.