ABS & Brake Light
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
From: Foster, RI
ABS & Brake Light
While installing Timbren rubber sorings on my '96 F250, SCAB, 4x4, AT, 351W, I broke the hard brake line running from the Tee on the rear axle to the right wheel cylinder. I replaced hard line within about 1-1/2 hours, thankfully NAPA is a 5 minute walk from my house, let gravity do it's thing in filling up the new brake line connected it to the wheel cylinder, bled the brakes, both sides in the rear, I figured that the front should be ok since I didn't do anything with that circuit. Now after starting the yellow ABS and red Brake ((P)) indicators illuminate and stay on. The ABS light comes on for a few seconds when the ignition is turned on, turns off for a couple of seconds, then comes back on, the red brake warning light stay on continuously.
I have a couple of thoughts on what the problem is and want to get some feedback.
1. I didn't bleed the rear brakes sufficiently after installing the hard line, or the fittings weren't tightened enough allowing a little air into the line. I am planning on retightening and bleeding this upcoming weekend.
2. I didn't bleed the ABS valve/controller located under the driver after bleeding the rear wheel cylinders. I am planning on bleeding hat as well this weekend.
3. In the time it took to replace the brake line the master cylinder drained down enough to allow air into the line running to the rear of the truck. More bleeding including the master cylinder. Would air get into the master cylinder valve requiring bleeding of the MC or just into the lines running to the rear of the truck?
4. A stuck/uncentered proportioning valve. I tried the trick of depressing the brake pedal with the ignition in the run or acc position without the engine running.
From what I've read regarding brakes in other posts it seems like my above list of potential problems are the likely suspects. I will be working on the truck this upcoming weekend and any input would be helpful before I crawl under the truck again.
I have a couple of thoughts on what the problem is and want to get some feedback.
1. I didn't bleed the rear brakes sufficiently after installing the hard line, or the fittings weren't tightened enough allowing a little air into the line. I am planning on retightening and bleeding this upcoming weekend.
2. I didn't bleed the ABS valve/controller located under the driver after bleeding the rear wheel cylinders. I am planning on bleeding hat as well this weekend.
3. In the time it took to replace the brake line the master cylinder drained down enough to allow air into the line running to the rear of the truck. More bleeding including the master cylinder. Would air get into the master cylinder valve requiring bleeding of the MC or just into the lines running to the rear of the truck?
4. A stuck/uncentered proportioning valve. I tried the trick of depressing the brake pedal with the ignition in the run or acc position without the engine running.
From what I've read regarding brakes in other posts it seems like my above list of potential problems are the likely suspects. I will be working on the truck this upcoming weekend and any input would be helpful before I crawl under the truck again.
Last edited by jchall; Jan 23, 2008 at 10:40 AM.
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 10,007
Likes: 4
From: Central Florida
Some ABS modules have issues if they ever get air in them and can be a pain to purge. I'd suggest bleeding everything, if you have the cash, pick up a mityvac or russel speed bleeders. They will make the job a one man operation.
