Okay. I love my gauges (Boost, Trans, EGT) but have noticed that the trans and EGT will not work unless I have the lights on (parking or regular headlights) If the headlight switch is in the off or Auto position, they will not work, except for the boost(no illumination of course since the lights are off). All gauges are run to the same ground source and the same illumination/power source. I think that the boost only works because it operates on air pressure and does not need power except for illumination. I have had my fuse for the DRL's removed since I bought the truck. I just replaced it today and nothing changed.

When I shut the truck off, the EGT and Trans gauge stay exactly where their last reading was. If I start the truck and do not use the lights, they stay at the last reading. If I turn on the lights, they illuminate immediately and then after a second the needles drop to "0" and than after another second, they climb to the current reading that the truck is producing. I have tested this numerous times under load (EGT) and trans (hills) it is consistent every time. I have included some pics of the wire I tapped into for illumination power as well as my ground. I'm guessing that I ned to tap into a different wire that will provide power all the time and illumination when the switch is on? If so, which one is it?

Joe, any ideas on this one since you have a pretty similar setup?

Far view of grounding wire location




Close view of ground. It is the ground on the left with the yellow round connector and blue wire that lead into it. Also has two black wires


Far view of the headlight switch. You can see the little blue connector that splices into the illumination wire.


Close up of the headlight switch. This is the wire that DieselManor instructions recommended tapping into. It is blue with a red trace. The red wire is obviously the power wire leading to the gauges.


Hope that answers any possible questions that might exist, but if not, don't hesitate. Thanks for any input that you might have.

 

There should be a wire for power to go to a power source when the igintion is on and a wire to go to your dimmer for the lights. So you need to move the power wire to a power source for the ignition not the lights.

Edit: I have mine taped into the ignition fuse.

 

Yeah, I believe Tracy is correct.

Also Brian, I don't know what the issue is with your gauges. I would recommend tapping into the blue and orange or yellow striped (I think it was) wire for the illumination. It is under the dash/steering column as that is super easy to troubleshoot instead of pulling the switch. Just test with a meter.

I cannot remember the exact wiring scheme on the gauges but mine do not behave at all like yours.

 

Well, I think Tracy has it right. The direcions I followed said to combine the wires to red, black, etc. Looking at the wiring diagram for the gauge sets, there is clearly (duh) a red wire for "take connection from the light switch" and a red wire for "take connection from the ignition switch". GREAT! Anyone have luck carefully removing those fragile push pins and not damaging them? Shouldn't be to hard of a fix, just a PITA. Too many lifes lessons lately. Guess I'll always have my lights on in one fashion or another. just joking. Got a project for Thursday I guess.

Any other suggestions for a specific wire to tap into for ignition power. Fuse sounds possible, but I would rather tap into a wire if possible and keep the fuse block clean.

Thanks again guys.

 

The boost will always work, because it's mechanical. All it needs is boost, and then well it's working. The other two are electric and require a switched 12v+. You probably have the red line coming from the dimmer switch crossed with the 12v+ power for the gauges Try turning the dimmer wheel with the lights on and see what happens. If the gauges stop all together or just act up while the light stays bright, you have them crossed. I used red for switched power, and a green or blue wire for the lights so i didn't confuse them.

Edit- i was typing as you were, and you finished first. If you have a test light or a DMM, (very handy!) turn the ignition on and off while probing under the dash. I believe it was a red wire with a yellow trace, that i have ALOT of switched things hooked up to and they are all still running. It's in one of those plugs inbetween the fuse block and your ground location.

 

The DiPricol gauges should react the way you described when wired correctly. When you turn the power off they will stay at the last reading level. When the power is applied on startup the guages will zero out and move to the appropriate reading. I'll go look to see which power wire I used. Be back in 10

 

I bought the fuse taps I used they are easy and clean they just plug in to the fuse you are going to use then there are two spots for fuses one for the fuse that went there orignially and then one for the new wire. They also already have a wire coming off them to hook your wire too. I got them at autozone.

 

Try this one, i can't guarantee its the one, but i did use a red/yellow and i think it was right there..

 

The Blue with red trace is the dimmer. I connected this wire to the illumination wire on the DiPricol guages. But since each guage has it's own dimmer switch you can also hook it up the the light switch source also. I believe the latter is what is recommended but it doesn't matter - personal choice.

I hooked the guage power under the dash, found a red wire that was only powered with ignition on. You definitely need the power to only be ignition on or the guages won't set back to zero when you start the truck up.

Hope I make sense, looks like Kris has it - check it with a multimeter and make sure.

 

Good pictures by the way! Way to post!

 

THis pic is with the ignition off. When you resart the truck and power is supplied to the gauges they will fist zero out then move to the appropriate reading. You should see the individual dimmer switches about 4"-6" from where they connect into the gauge.

 

Learn from the best. Don't they say a picture is worth a thousand words? Thought help might be more easily supplied if I could show you what's up.

Kris, thanks for the DMM idea. Would a AMM work just as well as long as I set it to the correct volt setting? I do know for a fact now that I connected all the ignition and illumination wires together as my instructions said. I will have to remove the pod and separate the illumination vs ignition switch wires. Interestingly enough, these are what Dipricol uses for:

Ignition switch colored wire:Red or White

Illumination wire: White

One last question. I understand how the boost is strictly mechanical, but it only has 2 wires from the back of it. So-that one has a ground and then an illumination wire for power since it does not need power at any time except for illumination??

All the others (trans and EGT) have separate wires for ground, ignition, and illumination. Guess I'm gonna se if I can get some extra push pins to reasssemble this together so they aren't messed up. Gonna try the guy I bought the gauges from first since the instructions led me astray. If he doesn't cough them up, any ideas where to get them and some cheap factory matching paint.

Thanks again a bunch you guys. Love this site!!!

 

Didn't see the dimmer switches on mine when I did the install, but I'll definitely look when I tear it apart on Thursday or Friday. Will let you guys know how it ends up.

Thanks again!!!

 

Edit: disregard since you do not have the individual dimmers. Just need to remove the power wires from the connection at the dimmer switch (blue with red) & hook those two up to an ignition on power source.
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I don't have any dimmers either. You can get what you need to fix this at Walmart. Just quick splice them in after cutting the wire from the old connection. I still say hook to the dimmer wire under the dash along with the ignition tap. I can take a pic for you tomorrow if needed,