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How warm does the block heater get? I had mine plugged in over night and the temp gauge didnt move when I turned the key on. I thought I heard somewhere that it kept the temp around 100-120.
Its not too hot to touch the area right around it, i bet it gets it around 120*. It would be more effective if you could hook up some small flow elec water pump on a seperate battery to slowly circulate coolant that way it would heat up the entire engine and not just that small area. Thats MHO anyway.
I think, though, to get the entire engine, wouldn't the thermostat have to open up in order to get thorough flwo through the block? If so, that would require something along the lines of 195°-205°F temperatures at the t-stat.
Really, though, if there was a way to get the stat to just open up, natural convection would create a through-engine flow that would heat up the entire block (heated fluid rising through the top of the block, flowing into the radiator, flowing down through the radiator as it cools off, and then returning back to the upward flowing coolant in the block again).
My 2000 E350 is barely off the peg when it's been on the heater. My 2000 Excursion is always on the peg, but it comes up to operating temp much more quickly if it's been on the block heater.
I think, though, to get the entire engine, wouldn't the thermostat have to open up in order to get thorough flwo through the block? .
Nope , usually it is plumbed out of the bottom of the block and returned to a T in the heater return hose. Completely bi-passses the stat. These work really well. I put one on a cherry picker with a ford engine years back. I think I am recalling correctly.
I think, though, to get the entire engine, wouldn't the thermostat have to open up in order to get thorough flwo through the block? If so, that would require something along the lines of 195°-205°F temperatures at the t-stat.
Really, though, if there was a way to get the stat to just open up, natural convection would create a through-engine flow that would heat up the entire block (heated fluid rising through the top of the block, flowing into the radiator, flowing down through the radiator as it cools off, and then returning back to the upward flowing coolant in the block again).
Yes, natural convection does cirulate it already. I am not so sure that the tstat would need to be open either. I am w pullin air on that one that the heater is on the bottom so it can go both ways. If it weren't then it would still heat that "half."
BTW Most of your tractors have a pump w the heater. It is an integral unit.
The block heater is on the engine side of the thermostat, not the radiator side. So, if you were to circulate the coolant it would just run around inside the engine and not flow to the radiator where it's just wasting energy there.
we use this kind of heater in a gaser..it ties into the heater and the block..works great for instent heat in the cab..but sucks at keeping the oil warm.then again..a gaser doesnt have a oil cooler...it works on the other side of the t stat...there cheap to buy..some thing like 20 or 30 bucks..i dont remember right off hand..this with the stock heater.you would get the best of both worlds..
Last edited by ron's power stoke; Jan 22, 2008 at 05:50 PM.
I have the same type heater on my tractor. Works fine, usually turn it on about 2 hrs before I want use it. Some of the old tractors didn't have a water pump, phys took care of it(thermo siphon system), cold water to the bottom and warmer water to the top, top of engine went to the raditor and return from bottom back to engine, remember how cold the lake water was when you dive down deep.
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