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Changinging IFS Bushings

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Old Jan 21, 2008 | 05:02 PM
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Changinging IFS Bushings, center pivot point

Is Changing the IFS Bushings a difficult task? On a 1994 2 wd 150?

Do I need any special tools?
 

Last edited by JRCF; Jan 21, 2008 at 05:21 PM.
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Old Jan 21, 2008 | 06:10 PM
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Is this not a commonly changed part?? Or did I not word properly, I beam pivot bushings?
 
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Old Jan 21, 2008 | 06:20 PM
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This is odd, I ususally have lots of response after this long? hmmm
 
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Old Jan 21, 2008 | 06:37 PM
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Is this a off the wall question??
 
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Old Jan 21, 2008 | 06:44 PM
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The hard part of this job is pressing the old ones out and the new ones in. The rest is just dealing with rusty nuts and bolts.

To get access to the pivot bushing put the front of the truck on jackstands so that the suspension is unloaded. Remove a pivot bushing bolt (it will be rusted so plan on replacing it) and use a jack under the IFS arm near the coil spring to lift it a bit. This should lever the other end of the IFS arm out enough to get to the bushing.

Remove and replace the bushing using the right tool. I did the removal with the wrong tool (chisel and hammer). Use the right tool. Trust me on this one. Lever the IFS arm back into place using a jack. Line up the bushing and axle pivot bracket with a tapered pin-punch or screwdriver, then install the bolt. Do the same thing for the other side.

Some folk remove the axle pivot bracket to get better access. This should work OK. You just will have to fight with more rusted bolts to do the job.

Lou Braun
 
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Old Jan 21, 2008 | 06:57 PM
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Thanks for the feed back! The right tool is what I need, I was thinking torch chisel and hammer for this job!
 
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Old Jan 21, 2008 | 09:06 PM
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Here is a step-by-step (more or less) on my website, for the same job but on an F350 crewcab. It will be very similar to yours, except all the parts in question will be somewhat smaller.

Not that it will make one bit of difference as to how stuck/crusty they're going to be

http://frederic.woodbridgedata.com/i...adius-bushings
 
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Old Mar 28, 2008 | 07:46 AM
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great write up Fred. Im getting rady to do this on 84 f250 4WD and was wondering what the right tool was. thanks
 
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Old Mar 28, 2008 | 10:04 AM
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The right tool is an air chisel (or big hammer/dowel) for removal, and installation a ball joint clamp, or a really big C clamp will work.

Just be careful not to crush the sleeve of the new bushing. Whatever you use to push them in needs to be a "hair" smaller diameter than the hole in the arm so it clears, but large enough diameter that it pushes on the outer sleeve. If you push on the inner sleeve you'll ruin the bushing in about 10 seconds.
 
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Old Mar 28, 2008 | 04:59 PM
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There is a specific tool for this job, I forget what it's called but it is listed in the typical Haynes manual. It's a special press.


Oh, frederic...your website calls those bushings "radius arm" bushings....those are pivot bushings. The radius arm bushings are the ones mounted to the frame rail under the doors for the radius arm.
 
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Old Mar 28, 2008 | 05:42 PM
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Aaaah, okay, so I had the names backwards. Thanks Justin!
 
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Old Mar 29, 2008 | 04:12 AM
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Haynes calls it a screw press, works the same as his homemade for extraction.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2008 | 05:20 AM
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Originally Posted by frederic
Aaaah, okay, so I had the names backwards. Thanks Justin!
Frederic,
I know this is off topic bu.... I was looking around your site and I have to say your pretty handy. Your son is lucky to have someone with your skills! I'm looking forward to see the tank build for your son!
 
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Old Mar 29, 2008 | 09:35 AM
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Thanks Stealth! The tank project is waiting for more steel to be at the various curbs I drive past Then it shall continue!
 
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Old Mar 29, 2008 | 11:32 AM
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Summit Racing has poly-urethane pivot bushings. I ordered those and poly radius arm bushings, and it came to $64 or so
 
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