Scary steering
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 232
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From: Idaho
Scary steering
Ok, so I have had a loose steering problem for some time now but since I put some knuckles in the front coils to bring it back up to original level the steering has become more apparent. The worst part is it is unsafe to drive over 40-45 mph now that the roads are frozen. With the truck yanking and pulling like it is I could easily loose control and hurt not only me but others. It is ok to and from work on surface streets because the speeds are slow enough but I must attend to it ASAP. The steering box has a leak and the pump squeels but this seems to be somewhere in the front end. There are new gromets in the trailing arms but otherwise I think it is still original.
Someone on the site had said you could tighten up a nut and or bolt on the steering box but I think it only creates drag and that is not the answer. What fixes am I looking at and how might I diagnose the exact problem ie: narrow down the bad part?
Someone on the site had said you could tighten up a nut and or bolt on the steering box but I think it only creates drag and that is not the answer. What fixes am I looking at and how might I diagnose the exact problem ie: narrow down the bad part?
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 281
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From: Woodstock, Portland, OR
Check your rag joint. It may be worn out. Can you pull your steering wheel towards you and push it down into the steering column while your sitting in the drivers seat?
If not that, Check tie rod ends, and go over your steering linkage, making sure it is greased up good.
If not that, Check tie rod ends, and go over your steering linkage, making sure it is greased up good.
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 375
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From: East TN.
Not sure about the bendix box (aluminum cover?), but the ford box, you can adjust with adjuster on top with the jam nut. Be careful not to go to far or you may make it worse, somebody with more exp. may coach with more specs. I had to replace my box it was so bad...wow what a difference! My front end is also completely rebuilt as well so that def. helps with the feel. Hope this helps.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,893
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From: Ohio
Rag joint, steering box, tie rods, KING pins. Any of these will give you loose steering feel.
Start with rag joint, it's right above the steering box. Rubber coupler that connects steering shaft to steering box. Very typical to wear out/stretch and break. If okay, then work down to tie rods, wiggle them firmly to see if any slop(up/down, side/side). If good, then jack up each tire and grab bottom of tire and pull OUTward. If alot of slop then it's likely king pins(or possibly bearings--you need to look and see what's moving).
When I bought my first F100 in 1984 it had the same symptoms. Scary to drive more than 45mph or so. It wandered BAD! After tie rods and king pins it was smooth and straight to as fast as you wanted to drive it.
Start with rag joint, it's right above the steering box. Rubber coupler that connects steering shaft to steering box. Very typical to wear out/stretch and break. If okay, then work down to tie rods, wiggle them firmly to see if any slop(up/down, side/side). If good, then jack up each tire and grab bottom of tire and pull OUTward. If alot of slop then it's likely king pins(or possibly bearings--you need to look and see what's moving).
When I bought my first F100 in 1984 it had the same symptoms. Scary to drive more than 45mph or so. It wandered BAD! After tie rods and king pins it was smooth and straight to as fast as you wanted to drive it.
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Westminster, Colorado
You mentioned a "pump" which leads me to look at the power components of the steering system first....what year truck is this? the 69 2wd? Is there a "piston" connecting the front axle to the drag link, with 2 tubes going to the steering pump?
I had very similar steering issues when I first got my truck....I had to replace the entire power steering system....from the pumps to the tubes, to the valve and the piston and added a new drag link with fresh ball joints. After that...the steering was solid as a rock...for about 2 years until one of the hoses got a hole worn in it (by a nearby moving part of the steering linkage) and had to be replaced...still works like a champ!
The "valve" in the power steering system, when not charged up and working, allows the steering to sway back and forth with bumps in the road. once this system is fixed it tightens the whole steering linkage up....these systems are *different* than other modern day power steering systems you may be used to.
I had very similar steering issues when I first got my truck....I had to replace the entire power steering system....from the pumps to the tubes, to the valve and the piston and added a new drag link with fresh ball joints. After that...the steering was solid as a rock...for about 2 years until one of the hoses got a hole worn in it (by a nearby moving part of the steering linkage) and had to be replaced...still works like a champ!
The "valve" in the power steering system, when not charged up and working, allows the steering to sway back and forth with bumps in the road. once this system is fixed it tightens the whole steering linkage up....these systems are *different* than other modern day power steering systems you may be used to.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,893
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From: Ohio
Unimog...that sounds like "power assist" steering. Kinda an inbetween manual and power. My '64 Galaxie had that set up and I removed it. That control valve in the drag link were notorious not functioning properly. It "read" your input and then gave power assist. If it failed then it was a real nightmare because it didn't know what to do.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,806
Likes: 246
From: Piney Woods of East Texas
My truck did the same thing when I got it. It was the rag joint and left side KingPin that was bad. Play can be found with some one in the cab turning the wheel back-in forth while you look for movements in all of the joints. Starting at the steering coupler to the gear box working out to each wheel. If power assist you may need to have the engine running. Parking break set and wheel chocked if you get underneeth it. Safety First.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Dec 2006
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From: UPSTATE NY
i was surprised to hear how it could be the kingpins. because those are one of the strongest components of the truck. i have read on wikipedia that henry ford used to go around to junkyards and inspect his vehicles to find out which were the least lasting and which were the longest lasting parts. and it turned out the kingpins were still intact every time. so then after that he was able to cut down on the quality of them and reduce the cost to make them, saving money for the company. well maybe by the time 1969 rolls around kingpins arent very durable anymore because of the money that can be saved? lol
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Elder User
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Westminster, Colorado
Originally Posted by Freightrain
Unimog...that sounds like "power assist" steering. Kinda an inbetween manual and power. My '64 Galaxie had that set up and I removed it. That control valve in the drag link were notorious not functioning properly. It "read" your input and then gave power assist. If it failed then it was a real nightmare because it didn't know what to do.
I really like mine, now that it's all rebuilt and working.....although, when I rebuilt mine, LMC Truck and others were not offering the parts...so I probably spent 3 times as much as it would cost me now to rebuild.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,893
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From: Ohio
The "pin" itself is really stout, but the brass bushings wear out from lack of grease. This then causes a really worn pivot point(like a worn door hinge on a car). This allows the tires to "wander" even though you hold the wheel straight.
Maintenance is the real issue with king pins, and most times the most forgotten item.
Maintenance is the real issue with king pins, and most times the most forgotten item.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,806
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From: Piney Woods of East Texas
Mine had nylon bushings not the brass. Surprised me expecting brass. Found out when I changed the spindles for the disk break conversion. But my dad never had them replaced as far as I knew. He just lubed them ever so ofter. But yes if brass and proper lubed they should last forever.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,893
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From: Ohio
I think he might have. I did my '70 way back in those early days and that was an option as you didn't have to have spindles "honed" to size. Knock out the brass, install the plastic and put back together. When you replace with brass you need to take spindles to a machine shop to have the bushings honed to size. At least that's the proper way to do it, I suppose some have probably gotten around that somehow.
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Idaho
Guys , Thaks a lot I will start with checking for loose parts. It seems to be somethign loose below the steering I'm constantly correcting after it starts to wander and when I correct it then jerks back the other direction. The joint above the box I believe you said Rag joint looks good and it is not loose when pulling back at the steering wheel. Oh yeah it is a 71 f250 power steering with a Ford box and stock front disc brakes.
Last edited by Bookman; Jan 21, 2008 at 08:42 PM.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,893
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From: Ohio
There is a screw-in cap on top and bottom of spindle with zerk fitting. The bottom side is also the thrust bearing that supports the weight of truck on spindle. If steering gets hard, it might be a lack of grease in this bearing.