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Jan 23, 2008 | 12:14 PM

#16

bertha66

Lead Driver

Joined: Oct 2004

Posts: 8,062

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From: Central Oregon

So what you are saying is that if the coil is bolted down good, it does not need a suppressor?

Jan 23, 2008 | 02:03 PM

#17

aerocolorado

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Joined: Apr 2001

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Quote:

Originally Posted by bertha66

So what you are saying is that if the coil is bolted down good, it does not need a suppressor?

No, not quite. There is a suppressor back there, but it is secured to the coil frame. Since it is a metal case suppressor, it is already grounded in this fashion. The wire from the suppressor runs to a wiring connector. As long as the coil pack is bolted down, the suppressor is grounded. If you did not remove the coil pack frame, then your suppressor should be connected and grounded properly.

Jan 23, 2008 | 02:30 PM

#18

bertha66

Lead Driver

Joined: Oct 2004

Posts: 8,062

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From: Central Oregon

Good, I did not remove the frame. Thanks

Jan 23, 2008 | 03:14 PM

#19

96_4wdr

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Joined: Apr 2005

Posts: 5,720

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From: Washington state

failed diode pack in the regulator, usually takes out the regulator also.

time for a quality rebuild, you won't like one of the cheapy imports with the low quality alloy copper windings. they don't put out below 1k rpm like a quality Motorcraft. too much internal resistance

faulty ignition wire or plug is louder on radio AM than FM and usually causes no interference on cd or cassette play

the clue is the intermittent CEL indicating fluctuating 12v batt, the flickering lights. do not run long or will kill the ECU/PCM

Last edited by 96_4wdr; Jan 23, 2008 at 03:30 PM.

Jan 23, 2008 | 06:19 PM

#20

Aeroman59

Elder User

Joined: Dec 2006

Posts: 830

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From: Kitchener,Ontario,Canada

Quote:

Originally Posted by bertha66

The low buze does go up with RPM's. All electricals are working good. I'm thinking a diode in the alt. may have gone bad.

I'm thinking you could test for this by temporarily disconnecting the serpentine belt (only for a minute). If it goes away, you know that it could be the Alternator . You could also trip your inertia switch to the fuel pump & that would tell you if the FP was the culprit. You said it popped with Key on engine off ? Fuel pump is active at this time. I would say whatever is causing the lights to blink is also making the stereo pop! Is your blower fan on when this happens ? or the rear defroster ?

The fact that lights are blinking seems to indicate that there is a heavy current flow involved. How many watts is the radio? Does the light blinking occur with the radio off ?

Aeroman.

Last edited by Aeroman59; Jan 23, 2008 at 06:22 PM.

Jan 24, 2008 | 10:56 AM

#21

bertha66

Lead Driver

Joined: Oct 2004

Posts: 8,062

Likes: 35

From: Central Oregon

We fond a loose wire on the stereo that was causing the popping, with was making the lights pulse. The buse is still going on, very good thought about removing the fan belt. I will be looking at that this weekend. The Alt. is a rebuilt Motocraft, with a life time warranty with 100k miles on it. But first I will take the one off the other Aero that I have and try it out.

Jan 28, 2008 | 11:32 AM

#22

bertha66

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Joined: Oct 2004

Posts: 8,062

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From: Central Oregon

Well I have replaced the battery, altenator, coil pack, battery cables, and check all the ground that I can find and still have a buze in the strereo. I think now that the sound suppressor has gone out in the head unit itself. I still am getting a random CEL and finaly got a code on Sat., #51, coolant sensor. I changed that same sensor last year, and now I will get to do it again and see if that stops the random CEL.

Jan 28, 2008 | 02:55 PM

#23

96_4wdr

Post Fiend

Joined: Apr 2005

Posts: 5,720

Likes: 5

From: Washington state

is it an alternator whine or ignition buzz.
ignition will be worse on radio AM, probably an ign wire. they are easily heat and wear damaged on the Aero. also susceptible to physical damage at ends, conductor pulled loose from crimp end.

try adding a ground wire from stereo metal chassis to Aero metal chassis as short as possible.