Just wondering what a V Type coupler is.

 

I think you must be referring to the Milton Type V quick couplers. I use some of them in my system. I like them because the female coupler can accept Type A as well as Type V. The difference is that type V has quite a bit larger inside diameter allowing more air flow.

All of my air tools, hoses, compressors and everything have Type A that I started out with about 30 years ago. By using Type V on my paint booth drop, I can plug in my Type V hose and paint guns that use Type V, but all of my other tools with Type A male connectors will plug into the same receptor.

I am NOT, however, using any HVLP guns. All of mine are conventional. If you are using HVLP, you should find another quick couple system that will give you at least 3/8" ID. The Type V has about 5/16" ID.

If you are using HVLP, you should have NO fittings ANYWHERE between compressor and paint gun that are smaller than 3/8" ID.

Hope this helps,

 

Definitly helps, my shop is almost to the point of getting all of the drops in and filters. I'll look for some of these V type couplers and hopefully get some pics of my plumbing soon. Thanks alot for all of your help so far MB. The key to the system will be the new condor pressure switch for the 20gal compressor. I did have one more question now that i think of it. How did you regulate the pressure of your 2 compressors to match the max PSI?

 

Both of my compressors were 150PSI Max, but as long as both tanks have the same rating you will be fine. Also both compresors should not come on at EXACTLY the same pressure. The odds of that happening are almost nil. I removed the regulator from my old compressor and my new one has no regulator.

I do my regulating at the drops, not at the compressor. In fact I have one unregulated (max compressor air) drop near my tire machine which is outside the front door of my shop. This lets me air up tires and run the tire machine with max pressure air.

My drop near my two post lift will have a regulator and a lubricator for my air tools. My paint booth drop which is already in place has a regulator, filter and a Type V coupler.

Plumb both compressors into the shop piping with a ball valve at the output of each compressor. This gives you the most flexibility. You can isolate one compressor for maintenance, or only run the least expensive to operate unit normally unless you need the added volume of both in tandem. To test the system, close both compressor output valves and let both compressors pump and shut off. THEN open both valves and let the tanks equalize. THEN use a blow gun or one of your drain valves to blow off the air volume. Make sure that one compressor turns on and then at a different time the other kicks in.

As it turned out, my big compressor turns on then my little compressor comes on. Once they are both running I close the drain valve and the little one turns off, then the big one turns off. So the little one is the last to turn on and the first to turn off. It works perfect. If the big one came on last it probably wouldn't be a big deal as long as they come on just a few pounds apart.

Much of the time when I'm running a DA or some such, I open both compressor valves so that I have both tanks, but I only turn on the big compressor. This gives me over 80 gallons of reserve. When I paint, or blast I turn on the electrics at both compressors.

Hope this helps,

Hope this helps.

 

So here's a potential problem. My compressors are not the same max PSI. The big one is 135psi and the 20 gal is 125psi. I was thinking that i could regulate the 135 psi compressor to 125 and call it good enough. My concern is that the 135 will come on and never shut off. I'm pretty sure the 60gal will tuen on first, since it's going to be the most sensative to pressure change, the 20 gal should come on second and shut off first. I'm hoping that with 80 total gallons i'll be alright... What do you think?

 

I wouldn't worry about 10 pounds difference AS LONG AS both tanks are rated as high as the highest actual max pressure. Don't worry about one coming on and not shutting off because of the other compressor. If that happens it is because it is dealing with high demand. If the smaller one comes on first and cuts off last, so be it. It works!

Keep us posted on your results.

 

definitely will keep you posted... The max pressure is 125 for the 20gal and 135 for the 60gal. I'll regulate the 135 down to 125 and run them... I have the spine of the shop air lines in and one drop started. Tomorrow i'll be finishing it up. All i have to do is find flex hose to connect the compressors to the pipe. Do you guys know where to get flex hose i found some from MSC but man it's expensive. $30 for 1ft. fo 3/4" flex hose...wow

 

Just install a check valve on the lower pressure tank. This way it will never see the higher pressure.

 

I really don't see how a check valve works to an advantage. I have the same setup that Duke is putting together with both compressors simply plumbed together and it works great. Once I started looking into doing it I found that it's just standard practice and done in most shops and factories everywhere. There's no magic to it.

 

If he is worried about the extra pressure from the other compressor it will keep it from happening. So when ever the low pressure one shuts off the other one will still continue to run, but will not pressure up the lower tank.

 

Exactly... I think you have 2 150max PSI compressors right MB? My tanks are 125max and 135 max. I got a regulator today but maybe a check valve will be better, definetly cheaper...

 

You will not get the cfm restriction with the proper size check valve. Make sure you get the Ball Check type. You will have a cracking pressure of around 5-10psi, so there will need to be this pressure to cause flow.

 

I really don't know much about it Blue. Where can i get a ball type check valve? Crack pressure meaning there will have to be a 5-10PSI difference to crack the valve open and allow flow? So there will be no flow on the 125 PSI tank until the pressure is ~125 between both? I don't know what is best either just regulate the 135 right out of the tank or go the check valve route.

 

Most check valves are either a plunger or ball, most specify what type they are. Cracking pressure means this. If your low pressure tank is 125psi and your main line pressure is 125 or >, no air will flow. As the main line pressure drops to 115 it will start flowing if it has a 10psi cracking pressure. But soon as the mail line pressure gets above 115psi it will stop. Think of it a regular with no adj. Will flow gas as soon as the delta is 10psi or less.

I would not use a regular in your case. In most cases it will work as a restricter.

Or you could adj the pressure down on the higher pressure tank, and have them both cut off. If the tanks have the same pressure rating and same pressure relief valve (safety), it will not be a problem to just connect them with out any regulation or check. But if they are different it would be easier to just install a check valve on the lower pressure tank, to prevent from tripping the safety. Doing so will make the higher pressure compressor the primary.

 

I would love to adjust the pressure switch on the 135 tank, however i don't know how and by doing so it voids the warranty. There are no adjustment instructions with this Condor switch. I did some research on these switches and was unable to find one like mine. I have 2 screws with a spring on each. The switch adjustment found on Condors website doesn't show this type, they show 3 screws, the one i'm missing is the one i need for adjusting the differential. This is a major pain in the pills at this point. You may be right about the regulator restricting flow although i bought the regulator knowing that it provides 100cfm@ 300 PSI. The other part that stinks about the regulator is that the system will not see the smaller tank until the pressure is at 125. Any suggestions out there please feel free...