Well, it's the middle of winter and it's -7*F. That means it's time for my annual truck problems. This morning I went out to start my van so I could go on a service call (customer with no heat). The truck started ok with the synthetic rotella, but after it ran for about 15 minutes, it died and would not crank over. Well I just got back from my no heat call and the engine started. The volts are low, so it would seem the battery is not charging. I turned off the engine, and the battery had 11.9 volts. I turned the key on and the volts went down to 8. when the gpr clicked off the volts only came back up just under 10. So, the part that has me baffled, is the fact that the engine started and ran fine for 15 minutes until the battery wore down enough to shut the truck off. I would have thought the engine would run for quite a while off the batteries. I suspect something was drawing a lot of juice to kill two big batteries that fast. Also, at what point does the engine kill from low voltage. I know the pcm needs a certain voltage to start, I assume it would also need that voltage to stay running? How much juice does the glow plug circuit draw? If the gpr was stuck, would that draw enough amps to overcome the alternator? Thanks, and sorry for the rambling post.
Nick

 

Sounds like the alt to me. The glow plugs draw about 55 amps when on, so they can suck a marginal battery down pretty quick, but once running the 130 amp alt should be able to compensate. Did you get a battery light while it was running? IIRC, the PCM needs 10.5 volts to work right. Hope you get her straightened out, I know what it is like when the work truck don't work (my alt died x-mas eve).

Might want to try charging the batteries really well, and then test again. A charging system needs charged batteries to work right (sounds crazy, but true)

 

Also could be the AIH giving you problems. That comes on when warming up when it is cold out, to reduce smoke (our friends in the EPA)

 

Thanks for the replies. I have the battery charger on it now and I will try it again in a little while. If I can get at the relays, I will try to check the aih and the gpr. If the relays in the E series are in the same place as the trucks, they won't be easy to test. I was just going through my recipts for this truck (very depressing), and I replaced the alternator in march of '06 with a Napa reman. It is under warranty at least. The batteries were also replaced around then. I'll let you know what I find.

 

No offense but in my past dealing with napa alternators especially, and most part store alternators, it just hasnt been good. You might look at a oem one, or one from http://www.alternatorparts.com/ Weve gotten a few from these folks with good success, and much higher output, which also resulted in a wiring upgrade from the alt to the batteries.

 

I am not sure where the GP and AIH relays are on the van, but I feel you pain (working on ambo's) May have some luck pulling the dog box off and getting at it from the back. Think of it this way, though. If you ever need to do up pipes, you are one of the luck few (turbo can stay where it is!!). Hardest part of the job is paying for the parts!

EDIT: What Mike said^ is also true. I have had problems way more often with parts store reman alts as opposed to OEM. I saved my old core from the x-mas change, took it to a local, very reputable alternator shop, and said "I Want Better". He is working on it now!

 

Yeah, I agree, the napa alternator wasn't my first choice, but they were the ones who had it in stock at the time. So, thats what I got. I did start it again, and the voltage goes down as it is running, so I will pull the alternator and swap it for another one. I forgot about the aih when I typed my first post. On a day like today (we're up to -2* now) the aih would be energized, so I could see the batteries draining pretty quick without a working alternator. Oh, and as far as the up pipes go, been there, done that. They are a piece of cake on the van. The day I am dreading though, is anything that requires the removal of the valve covers. It won't be pretty. Thanks again.
Nick

 

Well, I pulled the alternator out and took it to napa. It tested bad so I got my free one and it works now. The guy said they have been having problems with alternators in the diesel trucks. I guess I should look in to a better one, huh. Thanks again.
Nick

 

After you get your new alternator, take a volt meter on to the battery while the engine idleing, after waiting a minute or two after the glow plug relay kicks off, you should read about 14.4 volts if the alternator is working properly..

 

Out of all the parts store alternators, the one that seems to be the best is the new autolite (not reman) from Checker, Kragen, Schucks, Murrays, Advance basically any store that's affiliated with Partsamerica.com. Three of my neighbors have replaced with this one and no problems for over two years with all of them. One is the older 130A and two are the 110A and all are doing well.

Just figured I'd throw that out there in case someone is needing a new one. and doesn't haved the time or funds to have one built.


Austin

 

I bought one from this site about 4 months ago. I am really happy with its performance and build quality thus far. I bought a Heavy Duty 140A unit. It meets all the needs that I have for it. I have some pics in my gallery for those interested.

 

Current draw after start according to the manual, the GPs work for about 2mins, but the AIH will continue to operate for 30mins if you dont push on the pedal, once you push on the pedal it cancels the AIH until the next start cycle. Lee

 

Ok... what is a AIH.. Is it on all 99 - 03 PSD ?

 

Air Intake Heater. My early 99 didn't come with one.

 

OK... I guess i won't look for mine then.. thanks..