I've searched through 15 pages so far and I think others have bounced around my problem. But since I'm somewhat new to this forum and this is my first post I'll open my mouth and insert my size 12's and accept the verbal beating I suspect I'll get for this long winded saga/question.

97 PSD 169K,I've owned it for 7 yrs & 141K. E4OD pull a 28' 5th wheel approx 10K a year. Hasn't been on an analyzer for 5 years. I don't trust the local dealer to be honest. Replaced valve cover gaskets and wiring harness last summer. Other than ball joints(8 and needs another now) I've done little more than the usual maintenance - change oil, coolant & filters one alternator, both batteries, brake pads, and a sensor I've forgotten the name of. It also has an exhaust leak that appears to be the exhaust manifold bolt against the firewall, that I & the guy who does most of my work, have no idea short of pulling the engine how to get to. In short I just get in, it starts and away we go.

Around Thanksgiving it started being difficult to start about once a week usually in temps between 35º & 40º. It would just crank & crank then slightly catch and after a dozen or so tries it would fire up and take a little longer to warm up. About that time I noticed a lot more white smoke on start up. My usual mechanic(not a true diesel guy) says blow back. Pulled the engine to turbo pipe and some smoke coming from engine block. OK he say's maybe rings down the road but wait until performance declines(it has been declining since exhaust leak was noticed) and smoking going down the road is noticeable. The weather warmed up here in central WV and the starting problem goes away. Last Monday it starts right up temps around 25º-30º. Let it idle a few minutes get back in put it in gear and it goes about 20' up slight incline of my driveway and it starts hopping like a standard not in gear or starving for fuel. Back it back down let it run a few more minutes it goes the almost 200' up my driveway and stalls out. Starts right back up and we back down to the parking area. Called a friend for a ride and went to work. Next day it started right up let it idle 20 minutes went right up the hill and out the road to the main road and then it started all over again. Approx 10º warmer than Mon. As long as I didn't accelerate up a hill or try to get over 35mph I had no problem. Got it the 6 miles to my service guy. He calls me I got a plugged fuel filter and gelled fuel and some other crap in the fuel bowl(fuel tanks were lower than they should have been allowed Pushing 1/16th of a tank). He cleaned it out put in new filter and I went and put fuel and some Amsoil anti gelling stuff in and it seemed to run well for about 20 minutes and it started all over again at approx 50mph. Made it to my destination took care of business went out started right up and ran smooth as a top down the Interstate at 70+mph. Next day same thing started right up ran well until about 50mph and started the lurching trying to stall out again after 20 min. Made a stop and after doing my errands it started right up and ran like it was supposed to. Called my guy yesterday and asked about the fuel heater he said he didn't actually test it but since it was starting and running and not blowing any fuses it should not be the problem. Also said the fuel pump was holding at specified psi when he had it. Did think it wouldn't hurt to change the filter again but since it was running ok we probably didn't need to worry that much yet. Today started right up idled for approx 10min air temp about 20º. Stalled out at 10'. Starts back up but dies after approx 2 min run/idle time. After I pull the fuel filter out and see what I see and before I drop a new one in(not going to happen for awhile as I don't keep this in a garage and it is below 20º now and expected to hit single digits soon & I just don't do even minor engine work well in the cold anymore). What do I need to look for? Is it really the fuel heater? I find this hard to believe given what I've read here, winter fuel supposedly already having some anti gel additives in it, the fact it does start, until today ran and there is heat coming from the engine(once it starts). Is the exhaust leak possibly at the root of all of this? What do I need to be aware of when I take it to the dealer to run on his analyzer/computer? I do not, obviously, want to be taken for the proverbial ride just because I'm not that literate in Ford PSD.

Thanks
mredwv
Winfield,WV

 

For starters that exhaust leak is going to kill your boost. Hence, the lack of power of declining power at highway speeds.

Many ppl hear don't even have their fuel bowl heater hooked up. Crappy design that likes to blow fuses.

When it dies, does it sputter out of just quit? When is the last time you changed your oil?

 

Last changed all 14(?)quarts in Aug approx 6K miles since have changed the filter twice with the last being approx 6 days ago.
When it died the other day it was more a sputtering like running out of fuel. Today it was like a clutch popped on a manual tranny not quite in gear. Not really a sputter nor a just quit.
FWIW I sucked it up and pulled the fuel filter in the last hour. For my limited knowledge it was clean and so was the fuel.

mredwv
Winfield,WV
97 PSD drw,CC

 

It certainly wouldn't hurt to change the oil. Since we have the HEUI injector system the quality of engine oil is extremely important. (Thus it fires the injectors).

I would change the oil and see if the situation improves any. It may not be the problem, but the truck will pry run better.

It almost sounds like a CPS situation but you said that it doesn't do it when its warm.

Was the there fuel in the filter housing? I know that when diesels usually gell up they just suck the filter dry and quit.

Just wait a little while and somebody else will chime that knows more.

 

I would bet on the Cam sensor, even if its not that you should have a spare anyway. And on your 97 there is a current recall that you should be a part of to get a new cam sensor. if your not part of the recall (just go to the dealer with your VIN number to check) the part number is F7TZ-12K073-B

Farm is right on about your exhaust leak. and your starting/white smoke issues are glow plugs or glow plug relay. could also be wiring issues at the valve covers or under the VC's

Is the check engine light coming on? also have your mechanic use his scanner to check for codes. But if you can at all help it don't have the dealer work on or diagnose your truck, unless your other mechanic just has no idea what to do. Also post back here and answer the questions we ask. I can count on one hand the vehicles the this forum hasn't been able to fix with the right info!

 

Would not have considered the oil with that little mileage to be a trouble spot. But I'm not driving it as hard and changing out all the oil out as often. So maybe that is a real possibility. I know the oil is critical which is why I change the filter every other month, giving it 2 fresh quarts. It was not something my mechanic considered initially as he said as often as I've had him change it in the past he didn't see how that could be a problem. But it is a machine isn't it? FWIW I know most of you from what I've read aren't big on Amsoil but I had been using their 15w-40 Diesel(since 2000) and the last complete change in August used their 5w30(what the dealer had and I couldn't find any real reason online any where not to).

Yes, there was fuel in the filter housing. Clear bluegreen tint could see the shiny bottom with no sign of debris. Made a heck of a mess putting it back. Nothing like numb hands.

No, the check engine light(other than when it quits)does not come on. It did a couple times a few years ago. Local dealer never did find it. Although it went away. The brake light does intermittently, however.

When I start it in this cold weather I usually turn the key on twice before starting it. However, on damp dreary days of this winter(35º-45º moisture in air, overcast) it many times takes 3 or 4. Today it fired right up (20's sunshine) on one key turn.

Hadn't thought of rechecking the connections of the wiring at the vc gaskets we replaced this past summer. Ran like it was almost new for awhile. I suppose it's possible they've worked loose or the vc's have a loose bolt or two. I've gotten out of the habit of checking those things with this truck as it's more than a little difficult for me to get my big hands in and around on it.

And the risk of sounding really stupid. Cam sensor? That work something like the old days of setting the timing before efi on gas engines? When we would tell our mechanics or anyone who would listen it sounds like a diesel?

I also put a K&N filter in it this past July. I apologize for thinking out loud. Could it be not getting enough or to much air?

Since I'm going to have to play mechanic for a day or 2 are GPR's hard to replace for someone with essentially 2 left hands when it comes to this sort of thing?


mredwv
Winfield,WV
97 PSD,DRW,CC

 

Replacing the gp's is not a difficult job, but more less time consuming. I'd check the resistance on them first before getting to wound up.

I highly doubt it has anything to do with your air filter. Although, most ppl will not recommend running a K & N filter as they allow dirt into the turbo unless they are constantly maintained.

I thought about it being the CPS. Although, why would it only do it when it's cold? That sensor is(was) probably the biggest flaw to these engines. The seem to have a life of thier own when they start to fail, meaning several different symptoms. I concur with TJ and change that CPS. Here's a link for the best price. The are supposed to be recalling these sensors, but I have yet to hear anything from my dealer yet.

http://catalog.powerstrokeshop.com/p...catalogid=3660

 

5/30 user 12 months a year for many years.
You could have a few issues. I would get a scan first.
Even with no CEL it might have stored some info on the stall.
But for now check the stamped nut on the IPR to see if it tight.

Bill

 

Don't worry about not having a recall letter from Ford for the CPS. Go to the dealer. I hadn't received my recall letter yet, but the gal I usually deal with at the dealer had a stack of printouts near her desk.

She reached into the stack and asked, "this is your truck, right?"

When I said yes, she started setting up the service appointment. My truck runs a lot better and smoother now.

 

Went to Napa for a GPR guy waiting on me has a 97 asked if I'd replaced the CPS which had been a problem for him. So after getting the GPR I went to the Ford web site & typed in my vin & got a recall notice & printed it out. Called the dealer & made an appt.

Miraculously, after not wanting to run all weekend the thing started right up after 2 hours of the block heater being plugged in(1st time in 5 years almost forgot where it was) and didn't die after a few minutes. It did try to sputter out on me the 8 miles to the Dealer. When it did, I released the accelerator and it would smooth out and run. Wife said on the 2 hills, which, gave me the most difficulty, I belched a lot of white smoke. I never saw it.

Service manager at dealer said he thought the CPS was most likely the culprit from past experience. Going to run the diagnostics and give me a print out as well. We'll go from there and hold GPR in reserve.

My reg Mech said same about K&N Filter. However, I'd bought a 2nd one to drop in when it's time to clean the other. Past exp. taught me that.

I'll break down and buy some of those strangely bent wrenches & see if I can tighten those difficult to reach manifold nuts.

mredwv
97PSD CC DRW

 

the best way i found to get to the bolts on the maniflod is pull the tire an enter fender off
it gives you all the room you will ever need

 

]

Well DUH!!

My guy, his boss, coworkers & me have stared, tried different angles & tools & never gave going that way a thought. Might find a few other things are easier from there as well.

Thanks!!!

FWIW Dealer just called as I was posting & said all the codes that popped up all pointed at the CPV which they replaced under the recall.

Hope that's all.

mredwv
97 PSD CC DRW

 

If a plug coming from the wire loom on top of the engine and plugs into the UVCG needs replacement, just what do you get for a replacement. ie does it have short wires attached to be spliced into the originals? Or do you have to replace the "Pins" to the original loom and then feed them into the new plug?

In other words...How do you do it? I may have a bad plug on the front drivers side.

Rog

 

You can do either. The kit you get from IH or Ford is to fix the harness (new connector shell, pins, etc.)or there is also a complete pigtail, which when used with good connectors is the way to go IMO.
http://catalog.powerstrokeshop.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=MorePartInfo&PartID=503341&siteid =214083&catalogid=3660

 

tim, do you know if that part is available at any parts store or dealer that i might have in my area. i dont really want to wait for it to ship.