Anyone else have this problem? About 3 months ago my truck would occasionally make no boost when i started it in the morning (-10C) and didnt change with time untill i turn it off and on a few times. 3 weeks ago i was actually able to make it to the dealer while it was doing it and they verified it. they cleaned the turbo, boost tubes, and cooler, and guess what 2 weeks later it is -10c here and when i started it after work 2lbs of boost for the first 20 min. turned the truck off then back on and now i get 20. any one know what is causing this. Thanks in advance for you help



2006 f350

 

also no engine lights or codes

 

Have you had the egr checked to see if it is sticking open.

 

thats a good question. im not sure if it was looked at. the motor was out of it 2 months ago. to replace the bed plate.

 

If the egr sticks open at low rpm then no boost. Try unplugging it when the truck is warmed up and running good. Shut the engine down then unplug it because the egr is always closed when the engine is shut off. Then on the next cold morning give it a try. At least it will eliminate one other possibility.

 

I am not trying to hijack this post. I am literally in the middle of cleaning the EGR, if there anyway to energize the EGR up to make sure its actually functioning?

 

The only way I know is to user a can bus scanner the kind the dealers have where they can actually command different functions for the engine.

 

Yea thats what I was affraid of. I need to buy me a Tech-2 to be able to do this stuff in my garage. I was really hopeing that somebody knew what prong on the EGR to hit with 12v DC to get the thing to open up to make sure its wotking.

 

Well why didn't you say so. I looked at my prints and it looks like 5 wires for the egr valve. The RD and the WH/PK are for the solenoid itself and the other 3 look like they are for the feedback sensor to the PCM. It looks like a feedback Pot on the print. The print looks like the RD is the hot side and the WH/PK is the grounded side that gets controlled by the PCM. Make sure the egr is unplugged when you do this so no damage to the PCM can occur. Pin A the first pin in the plug is WH/PK and pin E the last pin in the plug is RD. So E is hot and A is ground. Just touch the wire quickly at first to make sure the solenoid moves in the correct direction. I have never done this so I do not know how this will work but here is the information.

 

hmmm this aint looking good!!!

 

Dont worry. If it ends up being the EGR valve, its an easy fix. Its on top of the motor and is easy to get to. Do you idle a lot?

 

Also - if it turns out to be the EGR, many fuel additives are designed to reduce soot formation and minimize the tendency for them to get dirty and stick.

 

I'm surprised no one mentioned just bypassing this thing and not worry about it period.

 

took it in after work and this time there was a code for exhaust back pressure sensor i think.

they replaced it and it seems alright so far.