I just wanted to let you guys know I just completed my efan conversion. I will included pics a little later so you can see what I did.I got a fan from a 1993 3.8L taurus and a 3.0L taurus.The 3.8L definatly looks like it will flow a lot more wind. The main concern for posting this is to tell you guys how many amps these fan draw.I have seen writes from 15amps to 100amps draw.Of coarse the depends on the fan motor condition because if your fan is starting to go bad it will draw more amps.However I used an amp clamp and hooked the fan up on low speed.On low speed the fan would draw 31 amps,I was kinda surprised at how high that was.Next I hooked up the high speed and it would draw 40 amps,not a whole lot different between the 2 speeds but there is sure a noticable difference between the 2 on air flow.On high I can watch the temp gauge come down. I also wanted to let every one know that I am running the stock 75 amp alternator. I checked my voltage,this was at idle not really fair for the alternator, and the alternator was keeping up at idle on high speed.So I am going to run the stock alternator and see what happens.Will post back with pics.

 

What kind of relay(s) did you use? And how is it wired to run, is it continuous or on a temp sending unit?

Cool info on the amp draw though.. I have a fan from a v-8 cougar/t-bird that been wanting tp put on my 94.

 

It is normal for fan motors to draw more current when starting up then drawing less once the fan RPM reaches it's maximum. Like with the vehicle itself, more horsepower is required to accelerate than to maintain a constant speed. That's why you get better mileage during extended highway rides than you do in heavy local traffic where you're accelerating and decelerating.

Most new cars have a slow-blow 50A fuse for the fan, to allow for the initial start surge in current which is momentary, which a high-speed "peak and hold" ammeter will display at about 75 amps. This surge lasts a fraction of a second.

 

Actually the relay I used is a 80Amp continous and 125amp surge,I know alittle overkill, I got it from Carquest and it cost 30$. As far as the way I got it hooked up,you guys might laugh I used a probe style switch which sits in the rad.Thats what controls my on and off and does it ever work good.It closes at 190 and opens when cooled to 170.The part that I liked about this setup is I can put it any where in the rad,depending on when I want it to come on.
Now you might ask me where I got the temp probe from.Well being I am A John Deere Technician by trade,I found it from A John Deere 6x4 gator part #AM118587.I found they are very cheap and do an excellent job.Do laugh it works great. Tonight had it idling and the fan came on when the needle hit the 'A' in normal and shutoff when it hit the 'O'.It makes a big difference in power and it alot nicer now hearing the engine and not the fan.HAvent got a chance to take pics yet.

 

great info on the switch
I hate those things clamped to the rad. hose

 

No reason to laugh!! I used an adjustable temp probe switch for my Taurus fan conversion and it works great! There's writeups all over the net (including one from a Mustang magazine) and all of them used rad probes. There's no problem with them whatsoever.

Nice job on the conversion; it can be a little daunting until you actually DIG INTO it. Just ask andym He's a competent mechanic and he's had a Taurus fan sitting in his garage for years, hahahha. I just like to give him a bad time

Pics please!