OK, so I was working on my 65 w/ a 352 and I somehow (dont really know) managed to snap one of the bolts that holds the rocker shaft on. I got an EZ out and used it, and broke the EZ out in the hole. It broke on a pretty steep slant so I really dont have anything to drill into, and even when I tried, the EZ out seems much stronger than any drill bit I have. It snapped off entirely under the top of the head, its not sticking out at all. I am completely lost here, has this happened to anyone, and what did you do to fix it?
Thanks Garrett

 

Garrett, I've had this happen to me several times before. Get yourself a small round, flat ended punch. Also a small chisel, or grind another round one to a slant. Just keep chipping away at the broken piece. The EZ-out's are usually brittle anyway, so just keep trying. I've never been able to drill one out myself either. If that doesn't work, try a machine shop, but that'll mean pulling the head. Anybody else had any luck with these? Brian.

 

Take the head off and get it to a machine shop. For a few bucks they can get it out. Plus it will be far more accurate when they are done.

You will save alot of swear words if you do, and maybe save fustrations too.

Take both heads in and get them reworked and gain 10 hp in the process. JMO.

 

I have a similar problem, twisted off the most forward bolt in both heads (302) while taking off intake manifold. Since I don't have much skill/luck in drilling out bolts am planning on taking the heads to a machine shop to have them do it.

What would "reworking" consist of? Having the valves ground and reseated? Or would it require more?

 

Center a nut over the broken bolt and mig weld it through the center of the nut to the remaining bolt. Put a wrench on it and back it out! I do that a lot.


SPark

 

EZ outs are hardened tool steel...some are even carbide, either are brittle as hell. Drill bits will not have any affect as they are softer. I would not suggest welding on them either as you have a good chance of ending up the the infamous "unmachinabilium" alloy. Best bet is to cut your losses and take it to a machine shop. Back in the day, when I was a tool and mold maker, my local machine shop had me use our EDM (electric discharge machining)machine to take an exceptionally difficult EZ out out. That was/is an expensive solution though.

 

I have some EZ outs and I've tried them before, but they never work well for me. I agree that at this point the machine shop might be a good bet, since you really don't want to ruin your head.


However, what I would normally recommend is heat to loosen a frozen bolt. Also, soaking the threads in PB Blaster for some time will loosen it. If the first application is insufficient, keep spraying the bolt once or twice a day for up to a week the bolt will continue to loosen. Use a torch to get the area as hot as possible until it loosens up. A punch as recommended above could work, and if every thing is nice and hot it will work better.

Don't use propane; it's just not hot enough. You should either use an acetylene torch or you can buy a hand held MAPP gas torch. The MAPP gas torches are similar to the small propane torches, but the tank is yellow. They work GREAT - they really put out a lot of heat.

edit: also I have had decent luck with drilling the bolt completely out when it's in cast iron. The iron is harder than the bolt, so it guides the drill to a degree. Then a tap can clean the last bits out. Of course it should only be used as a last resort, but if the part is going to be junk...

The last thing I have to say about loosening bolts is to always stop trying to remove the bolt if it isn't coming out immediately. Even if you are using an EZ out or another tool, if the resistance is high get the torch out and keep working until it loosens. Oh, and shocking it rather than steadily pulling can help. I wouldn't advocate an impact wrench on a small or rusty fastener, but smacking the wrench with the palm of your hand can help.

 

well guys, thanks for all the advice. Actually, today me and a friend took a center punch and tapped it, and tapped it, and beat it, ect, until we had kind of chipped it up and loosened it. Then I took a magnet and stuck it on the bolt hole, and yanked hard. I did this a few times, and the EZ out came! I ended up drilling and used a tap to get the threads back into shape. Thank you all for the advice though.
Garrett

 

The only way that I've been able to drill out an easy-out is with some diamond-tipped bits a friend of mine lent me. That was about 10 years ago & I haven't used easy outs since. What I've had the best success with is left handed drill bits. They usualy come in a set of 5 or 6 or so. Start with the smallest size & slowly (!) work your way up in size. Usually as you get close to the size of the bolt the bolt with start to turn out & you can either get a set of vice grips on it or it'll come out almost all the way. They can be a little hard to find & you'll get some odd looks when you ask for them, but I think that you can find them online.
Edwin

 

YES! Those are the way to go!

 

EZ Out. My favorite oxymoron.