I have 93 crewcab just had trans rebuilt now less than 9000 miles it has over heated the oil to the point it looks like motor oil. Not once but 3 times trns man has replaced everything but trans any help. or just junk the auto and go 5sd.

 

Is the tranny still under warranty? Seems to me like something was not put together correctly.

Was the filter replaced at all since the overhaul?

Do you have an auxiliary cooler?

Have any error codes been thrown?

Swapping to a 5 speed can be done, but even under the worst conitions, an E4OD should last longer than 9000 miles.

 

yes the filter has been changed all 4 times including new when it went in and it got a new external cooler on install.the only code that shows is fpl code he told me that was the fix paid more new censor/switch still has same problem feels almost like brakes dragging and the od light flashes constantly. it also has got new solinoid pack and new pcm/trans controller.

 

you need to find someone else to check the system if the person that is checking the vehicle does not know the proper test sequence it will always show a fipl code as a hard fault , and if the torque converter clucth never applies it will cause the trans to overheat ,on the 93 fluid goes through the radiator first then to the aux cooler , has teh system been flushed and the flow checked , sounds like the radiator is probably blocked by debris from a previous torque converter failure this is common for the cooler to be restricted by converter clucth material , also make sure and replace all of theubber hoses connecting the cooler and theux cooler , i have seen a number of them that with age and also overheat conditions the inside of the hose deteriorates and has a flap of rubber restrict the flow

 

all hoses and coolers were preasure tested and replaced the radiator is also new. will the tc clutch not engaging give symptom like the trans not all the way in gear or like a slipping clutch?and will it cause very eratic and hard shifts?

 

first the cooler lines the idea is not to pressure test them but using a cooler flusher check the amount of flow they can deliver to teh transmission , second the torque converter clucth will not affect transmission shift feel or engagements it is simply to eliminate the last 10% of fluid slippage in teh torque converter for fuel economy , and anytime there are codes present and teh light is flashing the transmission is operating in failure mode

 

this trans from day one has acted like it has no positive lock into any gear and I am afraid to hook on to my r.v. and it is getting time. to leave here and head home. if every thing is new but the trans it self is there a way to check to see if there is a problem in the trans and will it hurt to drive it about 70 miles to another shop since lasvegas is the closest city to wrer I'm at?

 

if it is shifting too early i would suspect the fipl is adjusted incorrectly and the transmissions line pressure is too low , if you need to drive it to another shop i suggest driving it with overdrive cancelled , this way the transmission is in direct drive ,once in third gear no planetary gear sets are working plus it will keep the trans temp to a minimum

 

thanks i'll take to another shop in the am.

 

You can adjust the fipl yourself.........

To set to specs:
With a warm engine and the idle speed set to your engine specs probably 650 in drive (curb idle).

Now with key on engine off. First connect the negative lead of a volt meter to the negative battery post, then place a paperclip straightened to slide up the side of the center wire for a good contact, touch the positive lead to the paperclip. Electrical connector must be connected to the FIPL.

If your FIPL requires resetting loosen the small torx screws and attempt to attain the correct setting. You can loosen the large bolts on the bracket if necessary but try to retain the centering on the FIPL/blade.

Your trying to get closed throttle voltage: 1.1 V, wide open throttle voltage: minimum of 3.8 V but not more than 4.3 V.

If you can attain those #s then tighten the screws/bolts and ensure the voltage is at the correct setting after tightening. You can also do a slow sweep of the fuel lever from idle to WOT to see if there are any blanc (dead) spots, much easier with a really $$$ meter with capture mode. If you still find there are hard shifts or very soft slippery shifts you can adjust to suit your driving but be warned slippery shifts will burn the trans up.