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cut the wire going to it its under the turbo its a connector with two wires. Wire a switch to send 12V+ to one side grey/red leave the black wire connected or ground it somewhere if you cut it! Now it will only come on with the flip of a switch. Makes a great exhaust brake even if you don ' t hook up the wires the brake pedal like the ebpv mod. if you flip it on when coming off the highway it will slow you down! Mine works great and when I start the truck in the morning I just flip the switch after it starts drink my coffee and when I come out just flip it off and away I go No problems and she flies!
But it does run pretty good till I get 25 or so miles on it.
its the timing from your eot(engine oil temp) being cool.
Smokin Stroke D, what is a cylinder contribution test? I don't deal with our Ford dealer here because the prices are too high. Where could I get one done? you need to find someone with a scan tool (auto engenuity, ease or snap on) takes like 5 minutes and your oil has to be over 160* IIRC been a while since i have done it. and to answer your ? it checks the amount of fuel each injector is contributing to the motor by cutting them out one at a time.
so i can do a cylinder contribution test with a snap on scanner? we have one at our auto tech shop at school. i have auto tech class 3rd period so i will go drive my truck around a bit when class starts and then do the test!
OH YEAH, I didn't notice my truck missing out at all today. not w/ a cold engine or at any certain rpm's or anything. the truck ran great although i still haven't taken off the 10k mod. i had the 10k in there coon's way, but i took it out and soldered the wire back together and did it the old way again. maybe the resistor came loose from the connector and just never made contact today?? i'm confused with this thing!!!!!
i have close to 3000 miles on the oil, although it is rather black from how hard i have run it at times just to show off some smoke for some people.
ok, i ran a cylinder contribution test today in auto tech class and came back with a P1111 system pass!!!!! that made me feel a lot better. passed the buzz test too. everything checked out, but i must say that the way that cylinder contribution test made my truck sound was really wierd. same goes for the buzz test.
i have about another 300 miles before my normal oil change time, but i will probably change it friday evening after school. i didn't notice it missing out today either. i think it was the 10k mod doing it all along since i just had the resistor jammed in the plug, it may have been losing contact then regaining contact and losing it again.
Cody, i would love to go to synthetic if i had the money to keep it on synthetic right now. also with all the dang leaks i'm having right now i don't think i would be able to keep synthetic in it. My EBPV is leaking so i need to figure out when i will ever have time to gut it. i need to figure out what is spraying oil on my hood, brake booster, intake pipe, etc. also. i need to do the CCV and see if that helps b/c i think it spraying oil out of a boost leak. i don't know what to do about all these leaks, but i will change my oil friday when i get out of school and if you just don't want that Delo sittin around your shop, i will dang sure take it off your hands!! LoL. just means more stapling for me i guess.
i have not found the cure for the miss in my truck. i ran cylinder contribution tests, buzz tests, unplugged the EBPV, took out the 10k mod, and nothing has worked. just when its cold it will miss out a little bit around 1100-1400 rpm's. i have no clue why, but it has not effected the performance of the engine. i'm just hoping its not something major like a bent pushrod or something like that.
Well bummer. I have this exact same problem. I plan on doing stage 1's soon i guess we will see if a injector rebuild helps the problem. I recently put a new icp sensor in due to a lope at start up and this issue, it didnt help either.
If you can get something to read the data stream, check your engine oil temp while driving it normally. If it is staying around 150-180 degrees, replace your thermostat. Read this page - http://www.dieselsite.com/index.asp? - and notice that the Dieselsite thermostat is NOT for trucks made pre 1996.
My truck was running so bad from 1000 to 2000 rpms that I thought I had injector problems - the gear shift leaver would even shake. I had an Edge programmer available to read the data stream and my engine oil temp was running in the range mentioned above. SInce my truck is a 97, I put in the Dieselsite 203 thermostat. Putting in the 203 made it run like a new truck.
Dieselsite indicates that Ford recommended replacement of the thermostat each year! It is important that you notice that Dieselsite says to call them if your truck was made before 1996. I think that some of the guys in the forum have said that the regular parts stores have a higher temp short stem thermostat for the older trucks.
My truck is a 95 so i am going with a stock replacement 203, had autozone order one. i figure for $10 has to be worth trying. Going in tomorrow, will update after install.
i have not found the cure for the miss in my truck. i ran cylinder contribution tests, buzz tests, unplugged the EBPV, took out the 10k mod, and nothing has worked. just when its cold it will miss out a little bit around 1100-1400 rpm's. i have no clue why, but it has not effected the performance of the engine. i'm just hoping its not something major like a bent pushrod or something like that.
I have a question did you get this figured out? if not check this I had a buzz test and cont test done on my truck tonight and they checked out OK but at the end of the complete scan 2 codes where present #2and #7 injectors out of range ends up it is the VCG the plugs are burnt on the inside and I'm guessing the UVC harnesses too mine too has had this miss on and off though . was there any codes present when you did the scan?
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