torque converter replacement

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Jan 12, 2008 | 06:52 PM

dieseldad

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torque converter replacement

can anyone walk me through changing out my torque converter 97 F250 4x4 7.3

getting a heavy chatter on highway today as I climed steep grades. After I got home a few hours later went to make a short run to store and when I put it in gear O/D light on shifter blinking and it would shift hard.

Jan 12, 2008 | 08:03 PM

Todd525

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I did mine without a tranny jack. I am kind of a big guy, I am 6 7 and about 270 to 280 lbs, and it was all I could do to lift it into place by hand. Other than that, its pretty straight forward. Re move inspection housing plate at bottom of tranny, take off the nuts from the TC to the FLYWHEEL, remove driveshaft, unbolt tranny crossmember brakets and all hardware, drop it down. Remove TC, pour 1 quart tranny fluid into new tc, slide onto shaft being SURE THAT IT SLIDES ALL THE WAY INTO PLACE OVER SPLINE SHAFT, and reassemble. If you have a split drive shaft, (I.E. crew cab long bed) you can unbolt the carrier bearing and pull the yoke right out o the rear of the tranny. Takes about 6 hours or so at a steady pace if you are mechaically inclined.

Jan 12, 2008 | 08:16 PM

dieseldad

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Thanks I think I'll go for it, as I'm mechaically inclined just want to be sure no special tools required and the part about being sure it's seated all the way onto spline any trick to knowing I've got it correct? Also did you have simular symtoms before you changed yours out?

Jan 12, 2008 | 08:24 PM

Todd525

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mine didnt chatter. Mine when I was in od, and I was on the highway, if I gave it a little more fuel, the rps would slide up without a sped increase. It would only go up about 200 rpm before it would start to accel, but I knew it was time. Yours might be tot he point where it just cant hold at lockup now though. Most people on here will tell you to go with the 3 disk banks and such and they run 600 bucks on up. I got mine at advanced for something like 210, and put a big tranny cooler on it that ran something like 42 bucks. I have put about 55 thousand miles on it now, and most of that is pulling larger loads. My truk empty except toolbox weighs in at over 8k, my tailer weighs about 4k, and my backhoe weighs about 14k. I have never had a problem. and even if it does go bad, I am still getting another. Just my .02. Also, you will need some longer extention bars to make the bolts on top of the tranny easy. I put about 5 of them together so i could reach in easily. Looks stupid, but works like a redneck charm....LOL

Jan 12, 2008 | 08:31 PM

dieseldad

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just one thing how can I be sure I have the T/Q properly mounted all the way onto shaft?

Jan 12, 2008 | 08:45 PM

Todd525

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The clearence between the TC and the tranny housing will be pretty close. Its about 1/2 inch or so. Trust me, youll know when you get it apart and slide the new one on. Just put it on, and then spin it while keeping alittel pressure against it. when all splines line up, itll slide right on. The only reason I said that is I saw a really stupid guy here at the shop try to put a new TC in and didnt line the splines up, then bit@#ed that he couldnt get the tranny to mate to the motor. You have to be a complete idiot to do this, and you sound like a intelligent guy, so I would guess you would have no problems.