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I have an 87 F150 with the 5.0L V8. I can drive it for about 3 miles and it just dies. I let it sit for 30 minutes, it cools off and then it goes another 3 miles. As soon as it heats up, it dies. I changed the ignition coil, but that didn't help. The key igntion has gone out and was bypassed with a push button start, just FYI. I am completely stumped and do not have access to getting codes pulled right now. Does anyone have any idea why it would just die. It runs great and always has, it has just decided to start dying whenever it haets up, but it is not overheating.
I have an 87 F150 with the 5.0L V8. I can drive it for about 3 miles and it just dies. I let it sit for 30 minutes, it cools off and then it goes another 3 miles. As soon as it heats up, it dies. I changed the ignition coil, but that didn't help. The key igntion has gone out and was bypassed with a push button start, just FYI. I am completely stumped and do not have access to getting codes pulled right now. Does anyone have any idea why it would just die. YES! It runs great and always has, it has just decided to start dying whenever it haets up, but it is not overheating.
Any help is appreciated.
Welcome to FTE
DEFECTIVE ignition module & possibly bad pickup coil in the dizzy.
The usual scenario...
Initially = module overheats, engine dies, re-starts almost immediatly.
Next = module overheats, engine dies, re-starts in 30 minutes or so.
Sooner or later (usually sooner) = module overheats, burnsout, engine won't restart.
There are two types of ignition modules used in the 1980's.
You prolly have this one > > >
> > > The absolute worst = mostunreliable type is mounted on the dizzy.
Marked: E3EF-12A297-A1A or A2A = Ford part number: E43Z-12A297-A (Motorcraft DY-425).
If this is the type you have, you will need a thin shanked Torx driver to remove the little charmer from the dizzy.
===== ===== ===== ===== ===== ===== ===== ===== ===== =====
The other module type is a squarish box, and is mounted on the left fender inner apron towards the rear, where the apron slopes down.
This type is somewhat more reliable than the other POS!
It will also have a Ford ID number on it.
There's several different ID numbers of these. If you list what you find, I can ID it, and give you the part number.
Last edited by NumberDummy; Jan 12, 2008 at 11:30 AM.
I apologize for my ignorance, but I do not know what a dizzzy is. Is the ignition module different than the ignition coil? Should I replace both the ignition module & the pickup coil??
I apologize for my ignorance, but I do not know what a dizzzy is. Is the ignition module different than the ignition coil? Should I replace both the ignition module & the pickup coil??
Thanks
What he said was: Defective ignition control module (TFI) or possibly bad pickup PIP sensor in the distributor.
He called the Distributor a dizzy and the PIP sensor a pickup coil.
The PIP sensor is a vane switch that is encapsulated in a package consisting of a Hall effect device on one side and a permanent magnet on the other side.
There is no coil in your distributor.
Now I am even more confused. So do I need to replace both the ignition control module and the PIP sensor in the distributor? Also, is the ignition coil a different part?
Are you getting fuel? Is it carb or EFI? If it's a carb, try to start right after it quits with a quick shot of starting fluid - if it fires - maybe fuel issue instead of module. Also - check to make sure those connectors from the ignition module are not loose.
Sounds like a bad pickup coil, aka stator assy, aka ignition pickup in the distributor. You will not get a code if your stator assy is going bad. Don't buy parts until you check for codes, you will go broke guessing what the problem is. You can check for codes yourself, check the link, get the codes if any, and post here. Good Luck!
I found the module but can not figure out how to get it off the side. Do I have to pull the distributor up? What size is the bolt? It appears to be a 7/32, but standard socket is too short and my deep weel is to thick. I am completely stuck.
I found the module but can not figure out how to get it off the side. Do I have to pull the distributor up? What size is the bolt? It appears to be a 7/32, but standard socket is too short and my deep weel is to thick. I am completely stuck.
I grind down the socket to make it reach deeper.
But you can also by a tool at any auto parts store to do it also.
I would have to go check but 7/32 sounds right.
A friend told me about a sensor inside the distributor...What is he talking about?
The universal distributor (12127) has a Hall effect vane switch assembly to allow the ignition coil (12029) to be switched off and on by the powertrain control module (PCM) (12A650) and ignition control module (ICM) (12A297). The PIP sensor is a vane switch that is encapsulated in a package consisting of a Hall effect device on one side and a permanent magnet on the other side.
There is no coil in your distributor.