When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
My 79' has a 460 with a holley carb. How do Identify the carb? The only thing on it is stamped on top. (6R) (6931) Does this mean anything to any one, or where do I need to look for identification?
My 79' has a 460 with a holley carb. How do Identify the carb? The only thing on it is stamped on top. (6R) (6931) Does this mean anything to any one, or where do I need to look for identification?
Thanks Paul
On the airhorn (top of carb) there should be a triangular shaped tag. The tag attaches to the carb with one screw.
The tag has the Ford carb ID number on it. The ID code will be similar to: D9TE-AGA or D9TE-9510-AGA.
But..the tag prolly missing. When ppl overhauled the carb, in most cases, they never put the tag back on.
I could give you the codes (and carb kits, other related parts) used in 1979, but is it the original carb?
There are three Holley 4V's listed for 1979. One for F150/250 (D9TE-AEA); one for F350 w/CA emission (D9TE-AGA); one for F350 w/o CA emission (D9TE-BKA).
Sorry, I have no refs for the numbers you listed.
No tag? Try NAPA, they have a Holley cross reference list. Those numbers you listed above can be found out as to the yr and model.
0-83310 is a Holley number for a model 4160 750 cfm carb, there is also a R-83310AA that is a 780 cfm model 4160 tha has race fuel bowls and AT kickdown on it and manual choke, its probably one of these or a variation thereof Dan
I dont know what jets. I'll find out. Going to take it off sometime this week. (I hope) It doesn't want to stay running. Getting to much fuel a buddy told me. He thinks its the power valve or something like that. He said that go out on a holley alot.
Yes a backfire will take them out but they do make a kit to prevent that for 10 to 15 bucks I think and no it would not be a stock carb. I have found that most stock motors seldom see benefit from more than a 6oo cfm carb because most, seldom see over 5000 rpm, but just changing the power valve is an inexpensive thing to do unless you need to buy a kit to get some gaskets, but you can buy the gaskets seperate and save a few bucks that way unless it already has reusable gaskets then its a snap just try not to change anything else while your at it if you go that way just keep it clean and a Holley will be good to you and don't overtighten things if you can help it
If you can get the old one out first check the number on it and get the same one, if not a 6.5 should be pretty close on the power valve, Holley says to take a vacuum reading at idle and divide that by 2 to get the correct power valve but with it not running I would suggest a 6.5 and checkers around here stock them , best to take the old one out first though, not sure what parts houses are where you are but I am sure you can find one without much trouble. Dan
Ok back from the dead. After rebuilding the carb over a year ago. The truck has run great. Until 2 weeks ago. After the truck sit over night or for a while it starts and it Idles fine. It drives fine till i come to the first stop sign or put it in park and let it run. Then I have to keep giving it gas to keep it running. Or if I make a trip shut the truck off and start it up after putting gas in or something It doesn't want to stay running unless I give it a little gas. Basicly I've been power breaking at idle. At road speeds it is fine.
I pulled it apart and cleaned everything also replaced the power valve again. This didn't make a diff. Any suggestions?