I bought a FE390 engine from a salvage yard for my 76 f100. The original engine from the truck I still have, I took it apart, I plan to do an overhaul on it. The idea is to save some money and fix the original engine, and for now used the one I got from the salvage yard. The engine does turn, it came from a 74 or 75 truck, the truck had a 2001 sticker on it, so I am assuming it worked. What will the steps be to have it running, what to replace, oil pump, timing chain, or what.

Any suggestions.

 

Well, depends on how long you plan on running it.

I suppose the best course would be pull the pan and inspect. If all gunked up, replace pump/pickup. You can see chain from there, see how sloppy it is. That's another easy cheap fix, as I'd put a plain stocker back in(no fancy roller). Maybe a water pump just for good measure since you'll have it apart. Probably for under $100 you can have a basic solid running engine.

The only other thing I could think would be valve stem seals. Umbrella seals are pretty cheap and not too hard to put on. That will give you a reason to pull valve covers and clean that area up too.

I know it's not good to sink a bunch of money into a motor you never heard and maybe won't run much but that's a basic game plan I would look at.

 

A compression test will give you information on the compression of each cylinder and engine.

 

Agreed, There is no sense in putting money into an engine that isn't sound in the compression department.

 

Thanks guys. About the compression test, I need to install the engine before I can do it, correct, but before I install it, I need to check the oil pump and replace it, otherwise I will have to do double work.

Thanks

 

One sign of a not so good maintained engine, is pulling the valve covers and checking for sludge and sludge deposits.
Check the oil and if it pour out black and like tar or thick honey, that is another bad sign.

 

Not correct. Just connect a battery to the starter with all the plugs out. The engine will crank just fine. If you want you can install a starter solenoid in the positive side, but jumper cables will work just fine by themselves.

 

So, just connect the transmission to the engine and the starter, and try it, correct.

 

or flywheel, bell housing, and starter.

 

You don't need tranny hooked up to do a compression test, jjust power to the starter with plugs removed.

 

just the spacer from bell housing to engine, flywheel (for starter to turn engine), bell housing (to mount starter) and starter.
Neither, fuel or ignition spark is needed.

 

but if it has a carb open the throttle plates to max position. Test it as is then with a squirt of oil in each to compare it (dry/wet)

 

Ya, sounds like a good idea. Crank it a few times on the ground and check it out. Like the guys mentioned, at least you'll know the story before tearing into it(if you even have to).

 

One tip on rebuilding you motor, invest in the book, How to rebuild big block Ford engines, by Steve Christ. Lots of useful info on FE's and FT's

 

Just one.

Are you sure it's a 390 engine? 1973/76 F100/350's also came with 360's.

Look for the crankshaft ID code on #3 counterweight.

2T - 2TA = 360 // 2U - 3U - 3UA = 390