Hi, all...

I have two sets of water pumps, one of one set I know leaks, the other set, I have NO idea, but they've sat for a long time (came on the engine in my truck).

The "new" ones, are about $190 a set. I can buy rebuild kits for $50 the set. The new ones have upgraded bearings, etc, which I know is a big plus. But $190 is out of the budget, for quite a while, and that's the one thing I'm lacking getting the engine in the truck, water pumps. The engine I have has car pumps, with separate motor mounts, shame, because they are freshly rebuilt.

Has anyone rebuilt the stock pumps? Any problems? I have a press, etc, so I'm not concerned about doing it, but is it worth the saved $140? I understand you have to be careful about belt tension, with the stock. Plus, when I hit the lottery, I can get the "new" style, and sell the rebuilts...

Any guidance would be appreciated...

R

 

48-52 truck style pumps already use bearings instead of bushings. That was the older style - 59AB and earlier. The concern about belt tension is a concern with both styles.

The pulleys break easily, so I'm told. I have 2 rebuild kits sitting on the shelf, but I buy new pumps when needed. The ones Speedway sells are the same quality you can buy locally at NAPA. Also Sacramento Vintage Ford sells the same new pump. I've been using the Sac Vintage pumps for going on 7 years without any problems.

You might try the pumps you've got - never know, you might find 2 that don't leak. Or, if you can rebuild them you don't need 'new' ones..........

 

Thanks! See how all the info gets jangled?? Info overload...

I'll have to check Sac Vintage...I just can't spend a lot right now, that's why I'm concentrating getting the motor in, then I can play as time and money free up.

R

 

Okay, just went to Sac Vintage - they list TWO pumps - one for $75, and one that says "modern design" for $95. The back looks different, along with the gasket.

This I guess is what has me confused...what's the difference, if not bearings/seals?

R

 

Beats me - unless the 'modern design' pumps are Skip's with new-fangled high efficiency impellers. You read about them on fordbarn.com all the time. Wouldn't surprise me that marketing is picking them up. I use the $75 ones.

I'll have to check out their website. Best way to know is call their tech hotline. They've always been good to work with.

 

I checked with NAPA and they would offer rebuilt units, using my cores, for around $80 each.

I have a few cores siting around that I am going to try to rebuild myself. My neighbor has rebuilt the pumps on his '51. He found the parts he needed, except the impellers, at a local place that sell bearings. If you need the impellers you're better off buying a kit.

The biggest problem I have heard with rebuilding the pumps is pressing the pulleys off without cracking them. My neighbor heated the centers of the pulleys to expand them and then pressed them off with a press.

 

I had to do a PS pump recently that had no tapped hole in the center (so no way to press the pulley back on, with the reservoir on). I heated the center hub and it slid on with nothing but hand pressure. That's the way I'll do it from now on!

 

Ross,

Now that you mentioned it, I think my neighbor said he just tapped the pulley off with a hammer after he heated.

 

Heat - the universal solvent!!

Having done maintenance on all industrial equipment for 35 years, there aren't too many things I haven't done. I think I'll go ahead and get the rebuild kits, and rebuild mine. I have 4 of them, so I'm sure I can get a couple done.

Hey, maybe a good part-time job! trade for parts???

R

 

Just called my friendly NAPA to see if they could get rebuild kits. He lists rebuilt pumps, for the F2, $69 for the right, $72 for the left...but, get this! He can get new ones, for $73 each side! That's probably worth it. But, I'm going to try to dismantle mine, and if I'm lucky, without breaking anything, I'll rebuild mine. Always out for saving a few buckos...

R

 

If you really want to save some bucks, it's probably just the seals that are bad. If the bearings aren't washed out (they're sealed), a couple of Chicago Rawhide seals can't be more than $3 apiece....

 

Dennis Carpenter, and the other reproduction parts dealers, sell the complete rebuilt kits for around $20-25. Check the sponsors of this web site.

 

Bob - I know, and I do. I just had my catalogs at work, and couldn't pick them up until today...

Basically, debating myself whether I'd rather just buy the new ones, or rebuild mine. Right now I have to finish the heat in the shop, and build some shelving, and build a welding table, so $$'s are at a premium. So, I have some time on my hands - that's the way it seems to work with me - when I'm working the overtime, I double my paycheck, but don't have time for nuthin'...and when I'm NOT working the overtime, ain't got the money, but all kinds of time. I get a lot of labor done, but I now have 4 or 5 things ready for rebuild, etc, but not the $$-flow to get them together. so, trying to save a few cents. The big thing is, I want to get the engine in the truck, and the water pumps are what's holding me back. I can put the old ones on, but would rather change them on the stand, than in the truck...

Plus, I don't use plastic so everything takes EXTRA time, to send a check, and then wait for the parts...

R

 

Just an update, and a tip...I also posted it in the tips at the top of the forum.

Everyone says the pulleys break very easily. They DO!!! If you use a 3-jaw puller, it puts pressure in just three places at the bottom of the pulley, the absolute weakest place to do it. Trust me, they WILL break!! Even with heat. The way I will describe, the entire pulley bottom is supported, and came right off, without heat or anything.

I found a "trick" that might help. On a lot of the stock ones, the clip that goes behind the pulley and above the bearing, holding the bearing and shaft in place in the housing, has long "tangs". The kit has a regular circlip instead of the one with long tangs. But, if you take needle nose pliers, and sneak up under the pulley, you can release that clip out of the housing towards the pulley, releasing what holds the shaft and bearing in the housing.

Then, don't pull the pulley off.

You press the shaft from the impeller side, pressing it out through the impeller. I used a 6" metal tube, cut about 6" long, for holding the housing, so the pulley and shaft could go down through the tube. The impeller comes off first, then the rest of the shaft, bearing, and pulley are pressed the rest of the way out, leaving you with the pulley still attached to the shaft and bearing. Then, you can press the shaft all the way out with the pulley still attached. The book and directions tell you to pull the pulley first. The advantage of my way, is that the pulley is still attached to the shaft and bearing, then, you can support the pulley with two flat pieces of steel (I used 3/8"), with notches cut out for the shaft, underneath, in effect, supporting the pulley around the entire thing.

I broke 3 pulleys, before figuring it out. I used a 20 ton press, my wifes uncle built, and it worked great on the last pulley. Now, if they've been rebuilt before, and have the regular clip with holes, you can't get to them. Can't help you there...

R