Bronco help asap
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From: Washington Pa
Bronco help asap
I am currently looking around for an early bronco to build up very slowly and use to drive when roads are not so great to keep my truck and car nice. I dont know a lot about them and am wondering if any one could tell me if there is anything I should know? I really want a manual shift on the floor. I t hink I have found 1 that is but am not even sure that a floor shift exists. I also see some have strange back fenders that give no clearance for tires. I do not want one with cut fenders but I dont want one like this either. I think it is possible part of the sport package but not sure. Any help would be great. I am looking at one now that seems like it may be exactly what I want so Im hoping for some feedback soon.
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I advise you to find a good quality used Toyota/Jeep/Nissan 4x4. It will cost you less and last alot longer. Early Bronco's have become collectors items, and getting one in the shape I think you want, will either cost you about $15,000 to buy in good shape, or cost you that to get it in shape.
Best of luck, you may find a sleeper out there. it took me 9 months of internet searching anything out west to find an uncut, rust free, mostly original 73 for $9000. It will get about $10,000 in makeover in the next few years...
Best of luck, you may find a sleeper out there. it took me 9 months of internet searching anything out west to find an uncut, rust free, mostly original 73 for $9000. It will get about $10,000 in makeover in the next few years...
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I think I found one for 3200 in reasonable shape. Uncut soposadly running. Everything is there and a color I like a lot with the hard top that I want. I am deffinitly not interested in anything but a Bronco. I agree with you 100 percent but I would just keep my pickup only before I would buy a jeep or foreign vehicle. It seems from what Ive seen parts are fairly abundant for them as far as interior and body parts.
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From: Southern Oregon USA
You can still find really nice, unmolested, rust free Broncos for under $5K. Just have to do your homework and be patient.
Most of the high dollar ones are either way overpriced junk, or too nice to drive. I paid 3800 for my '69. Rust free and uncut, completely original except for the wheels. A few years after that, I bought a fully optioned (but cut out fenders) 76 for $3900. I see them now in that condition for $5-7K, so they can be had.
Originally, all Bronco's came with either a column shift 3 speed manual or a column shift automatic. 68-72 have a transfer case shifter with a push button t handle that resembles a floor shifter.
Converting the 3 speed to the floor is a common modification. Gives it a sporty look and makes for better shifting. They also have floor shift conversions for the automatics as well.
This is what the stock rear fenders look like.
This is a conservative looking cut out fender using Bushwacker flares. They are more durable than fiberglass.
Another trick way to open up the rear fenders is to graft in some front fender openings. Takes a lot of work and of course you will have to refinish the area. But if it is done right, it makes them look like what the factory should have done.
Jason
Most of the high dollar ones are either way overpriced junk, or too nice to drive. I paid 3800 for my '69. Rust free and uncut, completely original except for the wheels. A few years after that, I bought a fully optioned (but cut out fenders) 76 for $3900. I see them now in that condition for $5-7K, so they can be had.
Originally, all Bronco's came with either a column shift 3 speed manual or a column shift automatic. 68-72 have a transfer case shifter with a push button t handle that resembles a floor shifter.
Converting the 3 speed to the floor is a common modification. Gives it a sporty look and makes for better shifting. They also have floor shift conversions for the automatics as well.
This is what the stock rear fenders look like.
This is a conservative looking cut out fender using Bushwacker flares. They are more durable than fiberglass.
Another trick way to open up the rear fenders is to graft in some front fender openings. Takes a lot of work and of course you will have to refinish the area. But if it is done right, it makes them look like what the factory should have done.
Jason
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From: Southern Oregon USA
The one closest to the driver is a 3 speed manual shifter and the other one is for the transfer case. If you're tall, the floor shift 3 speed can be a little uncomfortable. It gets in the way of your knee.
Jason
Jason
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From: new mexico
I am 6'6" and just put my mount on my seat back a bit .
The hurst shifter is the way to go unless you want a 435 conversion.
very glad i got rid of the column shift on my 68.
can still put some agressive tread tires on stock fenders.
once they are cut then .............
The hurst shifter is the way to go unless you want a 435 conversion.
very glad i got rid of the column shift on my 68.
can still put some agressive tread tires on stock fenders.
once they are cut then .............
Tuned
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From: Greatest state on earth
Originally Posted by Wiseguy150
I am currently looking around for an early bronco to build up very slowly and use to drive when roads are not so great to keep my truck and car nice.
An 86-91 Bronco II, the little ones are plentiful and dirt cheap. The 2.9 EFI motor has plenty of power. A 4X4 version with 5-speed is a good combination. With normal sized BFG All Terrian tires, these little beasts do extremely well on bad road conditions. On completely iced over roads, I have never driven anything that worked as well. The ttb front end is the ticket for decent drivability during bad weather. But this is only one persons opinion.
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I completly agree with you. My dad had a 1990 Bronco II he bought brand new and drove it for 11 years. I just am in love with the old broncos. I wouldnt build it up very fast im talking years. And once I got it nice I wouldnt be using it for bad weather. Then id just have to buy another one and start the process over. I think I let the deal of a lifetime pass me up yesterday though. Its got me literally sick that I let this one slip by me.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...TQ:MOTORS:1123
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...TQ:MOTORS:1123
Tuned
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From: Greatest state on earth
Dont get into the mindset that each Bronco you miss out on would have been a deal of a lifetime. Especially ones sold on ebay. I bought my first and one in best condition 11 years ago. Since then I have acquired 5 more that were, I thought, deals of a lifetime. Or the fact that I had money at the right time. They are all great projects. Three are all together and running. One is currently a complete frame off ground up with an efi conversion. My first one is rust free and an original halfcab. It will get all the bells and whistles when finished. Currently I dont want to strip it down, knowing how long it will take to finish in the condition I want. My worst addition was one off ebay. It was a `77 fully loaded. Unfortunately the term "has some rust" was putting it mildly. Amazing how much better things appear, most of the time, in a pic. Even tho the information was not misleading, I inturpretted it in a more positive way. There are plenty of them out there. Just be patient and avoid anything that has a history in areas of the country where rust is common occurance. As many people that are trying to do restorations on these, most will never finish. These are the ones you need to be ready to snag up on.
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Ya I am feeling a little better about it. I have been reading up on differences in years and looking around and they are out there if you make an effort to find them. Ill probably wait untill summer when I make some money to reallly make a good effort for one. I want to find one uncut that isnt nice and shinny but not full of rust holes either. The search to find the right one is half the fun I guess. If I buy anything early than a 75 am I going to have to get a lead additive to put in it?
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From: Southern Oregon USA
Originally Posted by fordtrucksforever
Unless you just want to build one up and have something that will end up being worth too much to risk on bad roads, here is another suggestion.
As far as the leaded gas question, I wouldn't worry much about it. Many that are still in service have had valve jobs with the hardened valve seats installed. If they haven't, there is a good chance that a valve job or major engine work is going to be needed in the future.
Jason
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Can't make money? Not that I'm doing this for bucks, but this is a reason it's hard to find one for a decent price, check this out: