theromstat housing
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 835
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theromstat housing
hi all,
9 exp Sport - 4.0L OHV
went to change theromstat today, and when I went to tighten the bolts back to reconnect the gooseneck back to the housing, I could "feel" the bottom bolt start to get easier to turn - but that is when I stopped...
the other two top bolts are on there as tight as they were prior, and the bottom bolt is on there, but just barely snug... if I turned it any more, I'd be afraid it would totally strip out.
the bolts were not rusted or anything, so it's not the head of the bolt that is moving - it would be the threads I guess...
so, my question is, will it leak over time, or should I just leave it alone?
second question - can I replace the t-stat housing, or am I screwed? is this not cast, like the heads? or is the housing aluminum? where is it attached?
I guess worst case, I can always retap the hole on the bottom there, or have it done at a machine shop? will a chaser help me here?
the block was a little bit warm when I was working on it, maybe should have waited until it was cold to do it...?
any ideas? or am I just being really parinoid.... I didn't use a gasket, just the rubber ring that the t-stat has on it, and it never leaked before.
Thanks
9 exp Sport - 4.0L OHV
went to change theromstat today, and when I went to tighten the bolts back to reconnect the gooseneck back to the housing, I could "feel" the bottom bolt start to get easier to turn - but that is when I stopped...
the other two top bolts are on there as tight as they were prior, and the bottom bolt is on there, but just barely snug... if I turned it any more, I'd be afraid it would totally strip out.
the bolts were not rusted or anything, so it's not the head of the bolt that is moving - it would be the threads I guess...
so, my question is, will it leak over time, or should I just leave it alone?
second question - can I replace the t-stat housing, or am I screwed? is this not cast, like the heads? or is the housing aluminum? where is it attached?
I guess worst case, I can always retap the hole on the bottom there, or have it done at a machine shop? will a chaser help me here?
the block was a little bit warm when I was working on it, maybe should have waited until it was cold to do it...?
any ideas? or am I just being really parinoid.... I didn't use a gasket, just the rubber ring that the t-stat has on it, and it never leaked before.
Thanks
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 8,462
Likes: 4
From: Durant, OK (SOSU)
I replaced the thermostat on my Ranger with the 4.0L OHV a few times. It's bloody hard to strip those out, they're quite strong, I bore down on mine pretty hard.
Did you torque it by the book or by feel?
I would remove that bolt again and check the threads.
I believe the thermostat housing is part of the intake manifold and would have to be replaced or re-tapped.
Did you torque it by the book or by feel?
I would remove that bolt again and check the threads.
I believe the thermostat housing is part of the intake manifold and would have to be replaced or re-tapped.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 835
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I did it by feel - I've done it before a couple of times too.... it did surprise me, cuz I'm not that strong :-) I just bring them to snug - not really killing them
of course, the bottom is all by feel too - I may do that, remove the bolt and check the threads on it... but if it holds until spring, all the better - bloody cold here lately!
I wonder if a thread chaser would be a good idea for the hole? I don't care if I ruined the bolt - but I care more about the threads in the hole of course :-)
the tricky part about re-tapping it, is that it's fairly low to the bottom of the mount, but I guess anything can be tapped if need be...
of course, the bottom is all by feel too - I may do that, remove the bolt and check the threads on it... but if it holds until spring, all the better - bloody cold here lately!
I wonder if a thread chaser would be a good idea for the hole? I don't care if I ruined the bolt - but I care more about the threads in the hole of course :-)
the tricky part about re-tapping it, is that it's fairly low to the bottom of the mount, but I guess anything can be tapped if need be...
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 8,462
Likes: 4
From: Durant, OK (SOSU)
Without the radiator and all that in the way, re-tapping it is easy.
The bad part is I believe the threads on the bolt are stronger than the threads in the manifold (ridiculous indeed).
You could try a thread chaser, what do you have to lose?
The bad part is I believe the threads on the bolt are stronger than the threads in the manifold (ridiculous indeed).
You could try a thread chaser, what do you have to lose?
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