I am really sorry to hear that... for both of us !

I'm like you also...I need something dependable and "when" I get this thing running I am doing my best to sell it and hopefully get most of my money back. Already invested $ 2,000 plus what I paid for it ! ($1,700)
I have never known a certain year of trucks to have so many problems ! (1987-1991)
Wish I had known this ahead of time !!

With what I spent in total, I could have turned my 1972 F-250 into a 4X4 !!

 

I did not start my truck tonight because I just need a break. this problem is not the reason I'm seeling her, I just don't have the room at my house for my 05 f-350, 96 stakebody,trailer, wife's car 98 windstar etc and my 88 f-250, she ran good forever, does have some rust on the back of the ext. cab (I think that comes factory) but insuance and stuff I probobly put 3,000 miles on her last year, maybe. If you did by a computer for yours, I hope that was YOUR problem and your good to go. For me I have a little farther to go. I won't try to sell it until it's good to go, I couldn't do that to someone.

 

Sounds like your close to burnout with the 88 !
I know I am, and I have'nt seen it in close to a month.
My 88 F-250 4X4 is a backup truck and something to drive when we get snow down here, but what good is it if it won't start.

Hopefully the Brain is my problem, but have a feeling I gonna run into the same problems you have and end up changing everything out.

Let you know what I find out.....whenever !

 

As said by other members in post, you just do not start changing out everything and using the shotgun method.
There is nothing bad about a 1988. I have a 1988 van with the same fuel & ignition systems.
The only thing I have replaced on it is the engine and the A.I.R manifold (was rusted with a hole in it) at the back of the engine. In other words nothing has been changed as far as the fuel, ignition and the EEC IV system.

If you replace a part and it does not fix it you need to put the old part back on until you fix the problem as the new part may introduce a new problem and make it harder to fix.

I have not read all the threads you two have posted but given a logical step by step approach you can fix these truck pretty cheep.

I may be able to help you all if you start your own thread and start from the top with what kind of trucks you have and what the original problem was and what you have changed. The truck also has to be stock and wired stock or there is no way I can help you.
For example if some one bypasses the fuel pump by grounding its coil and we ask if the pumps run all the time with the key in the run position and you say yes to us it would usually mean a bad computer. But with the relay bypassed we would be giving you the wrong information.

 

I actually have two different threads started on different problems that may be all related.
I could give you a short synopsis on this thread and then maybe SuperDave could see if we are having the same problems

 

Purchased 1988 Ford F-250 4X4 on 9-22-07
351W/ Automatic
Everything appears to stock except for the new glass pack dual exhaust I had installed.

Problem # 1
Truck initially had a dead miss and cut out "really bad" at certain speeds or R.P.M.s ! Also very bad take off and power. (real dog)
Changed out Idle Air Control Valve with no change.

Problem # 2
While driving truck home it just up and died. Tried both tanks and just cranked and cranked.

Towed it to mechnaics and he ran diagnostic check on it, he checked main fuel pump off the truck. (it was fine)
He replaced Ignition Control Module, then truck started. He let it run for an hour in shop. Took it for a 1 mile drive, pulled it back in garage, let it set about 2 hours and now will not start again.

I know he has done more then what I know, but he thinks the ECM has gone out. If this turns out to be false then he will re-imburse the $$$$$ !!

Need anything else???
Brad

 

blloyd
With the check engine light coming on means that you have stored codes and we need to know what the code is to help you out but no it does not sound like a bad computer.

 

The light would come on after the truck was good and hot and if I turned the truck off even for a short time and restarted it, the light would not come back on for quite a while and sometimes not at all.

I will see if I can get the code results from my mechanic !

 

That was not exactly what I ment. I ran a wire from my battery down to my fuel pump and it primed, I then ran it to the relay and it clicked. The reason I did that with the wires in the first place was the were very corrodedand the happened to have the in line fuses in them, I just ran a striaght wire staight because in the begining there was a deffinet short there. It would not start and if I shook the wires there it started right up. as far as the putting the electrical parts back on, I can do that. My problem first started last May. My truck stalled and I took it to Menike (because it needed to be inspected anyway )and they did the rear pump and filter(the front tant leaks). Ran good for 3 months then it started again. My freind and I did the rest of the work. I'm not a macanic, but I am trying to get this truck back on the road. I still think it's a fuel problem. The other day I had not thrown in the towel, I was tired and didn't have the paitince. I will try again today.

 

I guess about the 88 being a bad truck? Fuel pump or EEC power relay?If the wires on the bottom of the relays are corroded then you need to cut the wires off and replace both relays with Borg Warrer type relays.
I think you mean open and not a short, right?That would be an open. That would depend on what the part is and the current problem.Did they clean the tank out good, if not this may be the problem again.As it sets now what is the problem with the truck?
If you think it is fuel put a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel manifold and ground pin 6 of the test connector with the key on and you should get about 42 psi.
If the problem happens while driving tape the gauge to the windshield and it should at all times stay above 32 psi.

 

I will put a fuel pressure tester on shortly, I have to go and dump my dump truck first and then I will start the truck(in about an hour)it probably won't act up for another hour,it will act up right in my driveway. and yes I ment the wires were open. Did they clean the tank good? I don't know. This 88 is not a bad truck, it has made me a ton of cash and owes me nothing.

 

to subford: yes I meant the fuel relay clicked, yes I meant OPEN wires, I started the truck the other day, it ran for 3 hours in my driveway then I drove it for 1 hour, parked it for 2 hours it ran fine. Today, I started it it ran for 1 hour and stalled. I then took it out for awhile to see if it would act up, after it stalled a couple of times and would not start, I poped the hood, turned the key halfway, heard nothing(the pumps were not priming), turned it the rest of the way, it would not start, I did that 3 times. then the 4th time I turned the key I heard it prime and then it started.What could possibly be my problem? A bad wire somewhere. I would appreciate your input. Thank you. I did go back to Menike today, and ask the man who worked on my rear fuel pump and filter(he's a friend of a friend)and he said yes he cleaned the tank.

 

Sounds like it may be the Ignition switch.

 

that Sir, after I got the truck back from Meineke and it acted up again, that was the second thing I changed after fixing the open wires.

 

When you turn on the key you must get a click from both the fuel pressure and power relay or it is not going to start. There is nothing the Ignition system, fuel system or the computer can do to stop this from happening.
If it is not the ignition switch (the part down by the floorboard) then check the ground for the relay. It is the small black wire coming off the negative post of the battery going through an in-line one-wire connector and coming out as a black wire with a green stripe.

If this is all good then check the wiring under the relays, if bad remove the relay sockets and replace with Borg-Warner stile relays.