I was browsing through some searched threads in regards to lowering these trucks, and was really taking in a lot of knowledge exlaining and detailing all the different ways that this lowering task can be accomplished. That's when I came across a post by a member named Steve Sanders (Tiremine) who said that all he did was flip both axles above the leaf springs. I had never heard of doing this before, and suddenly became very interested in it. This could be my big break in terms of being able to lower my truck without spending a fortune. So I decided to open up Steve's gallery, and sure enough, there was a picture clearly revealing how he accomplished the front axle flip.

Here it is:


The rest of his gallery showing other pics of his truck and modifications is here: https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...4&albumid=9507

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So basically right now I'm shocked. If this works and works well, then this is awesome news for all of us who can't afford other more mainstream options (dropped axle, IFS, monoleafs, etc..). I sent Steve a PM full of questions, and am anxiously anticipating a response full of answers.

Has anyone else ever seen this done or has actually done this him (or her) self? Steve drag races this truck too, which would tend to indicate that this lowering solution can actually handle some punishment without breaking... From the image above I can see that he welded up a steel plate with approximately the same dimensions as the original forged section directly above it on the axle. This plate essentially prevents the axle from moving (rotationally over the spring) and solidifies the design. Therefore, when braking, for example, the truck's momentum won't twist the axle around.

Some of the questions I sent him include:

1. Has the handling changed for the better? Any oddities or weirdnesses you've experienced while driving around?
2. Wouldn't the axle hit the oil pan?
3. And what about suspension travel clearance? Did you have to notch the frame?
4. Is there anything, now after you've done this, that you would do differently if you were doing this again?
5. Did you have to modify any of the steering components in any way? Pitman arm, bumpsteer issues, etc..?
6. And lastly, are there any safety issues or dangers that you've encountered since this modification?

So if anyone else has any knowledge on this lowering technique, please speak up. After seeing this I'm beginning to think about doing the same thing myself for my '64. It's a full 6" drop for free (besides some simple fabrication and maybe a small frame notch and oil pan). Also, this raises the axle farther up under the truck, unlike with a dropped I-beam, in which the axle actually gets lower to the ground. And again, its practically double the drop! This is almost too good to be true, I bet I'm missing some big component...

Can someone tell me what I'm forgetting?

--Matt

 

That method greatly reduces the axle-to-oil pan clearance, as well as other suspension travel clearance issues. It also requires a rear sump oil pan.
It also creates some degree of bumpsteer unless the steering linkage coming off of the pitman arm is shortened to compensate.
The real way to go is the Dakota front suspension, if not have the straight axle stretched, and you retain your suspension travel clearance.
In that picture, look how close the U-bolts and the axle are to the frame. Not much room for suspension travel.
Garbz should ring in with a little more info on the subject.
If you are looking for maximum drop with rack and pinion P/S, disc brakes, truck-type GVWR and suspension travel, the only way to go is with the Dakota front clip option. Otherwise, to keep the suspension travel clearance and have disc brakes, I recommend having the axle dropped and adding an aftermarket disc brake kit.

 

I have no money though!

I don't see why this wouldn't work IF you WERE willing to notch the frame, oil pan, and shorten the pitman arm.

 

The axle in question has been professionally welded for the lower perch. Unless you know a welder willing to do it most will not weld on suspension components.

This lowering will still have the same effect as the straight axle under the spring had.

He kept the full pack to help with bottoming out.

As for the oil pan.....Fords use a front hung pump on modern engines and one wack on it and its hastalavista engine... Typically it is right in line with the axle or close enough to worry.

I was looking into a similar drop system to be a bolt in but the logistics overcame the costs.

Garbz

 

The original y-blocks in these trucks (at least in mine..), has the oil pump pretty far back in the corner of the engine, not near the axle at all... Also, because the y-block already has such a deep skirt, notching the oil pan shouldn't be a big deal.

The way I see it, if one were willing to do the work, this method could be a viable option.

What would need to be done:

- Weld steel plates (probably 3/8"?) beneath axle.
- Notch frame about an inch or two. Box it in for strength.
- Notch the oil pan.

I think the work may outweigh the cost of dropping it any other ways. Plus, this gets you a good 6" drop, while a $400 dropped axle could get you half of that. And IFS is in the thousands...



Either way, I'll be very interested to read Steve's response to my questions. Especially about any safety issues...

 

The other thing about this lowering technique is that if you got sick of the lowered ride, a days work could have the truck rolling at stock height again.

 

Hi matt,
Sorry for the slow responce, hope I can answer some of your questions.
1. As far as handling is concerned a straight axle is a straight axle and I don't think we'll ever get these things to turn. As instig8r63 said it does cause some bump steer until the linkages are adjusted.
2. I have a rear sump pan on my engine and it's tight but it clears. You'll have to check your setup.
3. Haven't notched the front but it hasn't bottomed out yet so I may not have to.
4. I wouldn't change a thing
5. As I said there are bump steer issues and I had to make wedges to get the caster right (very important)
6. I believe it's as safe now as before.
And as you said in half a day I can be back at stock ride hieght.

 

One other thing I'm going to do is move the axle 2" forward. It'll be subtle but I think the wheel is too far back in the wheelwell. I'll post some before and after pics.

 

If you flipped the axle AND moved it forward some at the same time, then the pitman would straighten out conveniently, wouldn't it?

Did you remove the bumpstop? And what kind of driving are you doing?

 

Yes it will bring the pitman forward too but I don't think 2" is going to be enough.
I did remove the bumpstop and it's not a daily driver but mostly street with an occasional trip to the Dragstrip.

 

Sorry I've been glorifying your lowering modification with this thread so much, but I'm trying to get as much advice as possible!

Do you have any other pictures of the axle setup that you could upload? Maybe a side picture that fully shows how it looks and how much clearance you have on the frame and oil pan? If you do, that'd be really helpful...



I've got a few more questions right now if you don't mind:

1. How long have you been driving the truck around with the flipped axle?
2. Did you weld up the plates yourself? If not, who did you have do it?
3. How much lower is your oil pan than your frame rails if you looked directly from the side at eye level?

Thanks for all the assistance!

 

Matt,
I had a guy I know with a mill cut a flat where I welded the plate so the sufaces would be parallel. I've been driving it like this for a couple of years. I've added two more pics to my gallery. I hope they help. Don't worry about all the questions. I'll answer any I can.


https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...173279&width=0

 

Did you buy an aftermarket oil pan with the notch like that?

 

You know thats not a y-block right? It's just a rear sump 460 pan.

 

Yeah I know it isn't a y-block. I've just never seen a stock oil pan with that kind of shape... Goes to show how much I know about engines.

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These I-beam axles are forged, right? How tough is it to weld to them?