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Rear Brake question??

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Old Jan 8, 2008 | 08:23 PM
  #16  
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What other components are in this RABS system? that block under my driver side door man is it rusty!!

How do I know what to change if I want RABS fixed??
 
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Old Jan 8, 2008 | 09:14 PM
  #17  
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I had the same problem on my 88 f150-rear brake cylinders were shot-jacked up the rear and pushed the brake and the rears were not stopping-only with parking brake did I get them to stop-changed the cylinders-what a difference!!!!
 
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Old Jan 8, 2008 | 10:13 PM
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didn't get around to looking at the rear brakes tonight, tomorow I will be able to diagnose the brake cylinders.
Still would like to learn more about diagnosing the RABS.

Thanks again for all the replies, this site rocks!!
 
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Old Jan 9, 2008 | 01:27 PM
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If you want to learn about RABS and pulling fault codes you should look at the Raybestos onlinetraining website and also brakeandfrontenddotcom/bf/bf99946.htm
 
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Old Jan 9, 2008 | 05:24 PM
  #20  
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While you are checking out the Rear brakes you may want to see if you dont have issues with a leaking oil seal in the axle. RABS only works if you are actually able to get the rear brakes to apply. It is only meant to prevent a complete lock up of the rear brakes so that the rear end doesnt loose traction when you apply the brakes in a panic situation and swing the rear end around due to the front end having a near complete transfer of weight of the vehicle, i.e. nose-diving with sudden stops like the late 60's, 70's land yachts and lifted trucks. If your rear brakes are not working, you have an auto tranny, and the engine is spinning fast enough to get movement through the torque converter to the transmission then you could overload the front brakes. First thing is to get your brakes working, then worry about the RABS unit. The RABS is suppose to default so that you still have brakes if it fails because it is basically like a pressure relief valve on your brake lines so that the pressure decreases thus the brakes back off to allow rotation.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2008 | 09:56 PM
  #21  
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Well jr32560 You hit that one on the head! Both cylinders seized solid!! So I changed out both piston cylinders tonight replaced the lines back to the flex block, bled them and tried it out.

I had it on jack stands and fired her up. Put it in drive and once the wheels were spinning hit the brakes and the wheel continued to spin! I should also mention that I set the adjusters to the point just so the drums would come off. the wheel slowed slightly but when I took my foot off the brake pedal and pushed it again right away they stopped. Is this a sign that the RABS is operating ??
 
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Old Jan 9, 2008 | 10:07 PM
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I am sure once you change the wheel cylinders all will be good-i never had a problem with the abs and i got 1- 87 and 1- 88 both 4 wheel drive-seen a lot of mud and snow -sounds like it's working okay to me!!!
 
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Old Jan 9, 2008 | 10:11 PM
  #23  
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I hope it is, will know better after I take it to work tomorow.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2008 | 10:18 PM
  #24  
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I think you will be happy-I was-what a difference a few brake cylinders that work will make!!!you have them adjusted right?? they should work well-drove mine almost 1 year till I figured it out-figured the rabs also!!! was glad it was so easy!!!!!
 
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Old Jan 9, 2008 | 10:20 PM
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you would think if the abs pulsates it would not rust up the way they do ??? oh well just a lesson in life I guess???
 
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Old Jan 9, 2008 | 10:22 PM
  #26  
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Yeah really, strange? any lessons on adjusting? like I said previouly I set them until I could just remove the drums.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2008 | 10:26 PM
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did you turn the drums?? if not they have a ridge on the outer edge that will keep them from coming off when adjusted!!!
 
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Old Jan 9, 2008 | 10:29 PM
  #28  
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no I did not turn the drums, thelip you speak of I am familiar with. It was approx 3/16" max.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2008 | 10:30 PM
  #29  
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After doing brakes you always have to pump the brakes to get the "free play" out before you drive it. Thats why it didnt stop the 1st time. Even if you have the shoes adjusted tight, the wheel cylinders/calipers have to get the piston out, and the square cut seal that pulls the piston back has to get set.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2008 | 10:31 PM
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if not turned adjust till they wont turn or you hear them rubbing and back off till the are just free-usually one or 3 clicks-it's a pain cause you got to push the auto adjuster thing but it will work-can't remember the name of it right now-dain bread!!! do both sides and you should be happier then a tornado in a trailer park-stop on a dime and leave 9 cents change!!--built FORD tough!!!
 
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