I understand it's New England and it's winter time, but the good old '65 F-350 just won't start right. The fan turns very slowly and the cranking power is just enough to get it going, it eventually fires if you pump the gas pedal enough times, it sounds like an ignition problem, but all new plugs last summer, new wires last winter, new distributor cap and rotor last spring, new points and condensor last weekend. I ran myself out of options to think about for my hard starting, after ashe fires up, she runs just fine....She's a 352, 4 sp manual, with a list of new stuff within the month - soenoid, battery, alternator, alt to engine block ground terminal, voltage regulator (yes i did adjust it), also points and condensor for the distributor. The starter is a Napa Reconditioned unit bought about a year ago. Oh, and i also installed a tank-type water heater, (plug it into your house current and it heats and flows your anti-freeze through your enigne), and gets the engine hot enough that by morning the intake manifold and radiator are hot enough to burn you on contact...so, why won't my truck start when it's cold, not to mention when it is an already warm engine? It's been tearing at my brain for a month or two now, but the answer just won't show up. Thanks guys.

 

Got a dwell meter? If not, try resetting your points at one end then the other of the spec, which probably runs something like .015-.018, I think. My 289 liked .016. Also, check the choke, but it sounds like you probably already did....

 

Four batteries were offered when your truck was new: R22F (45 amps) / R24F (55 amps) / R27F (70 amps) / R27FA (80 amps).

Which one do you have? My guess the 55 amp battery (or less).

If so, the battery that your truck has now does not have enough cold cranking amps.

A minimum of 65 amps is a must for these old trucks.

 

Looks from other member's threads all the basics are covered. Starting my 65 w/ 390 was a pain in the backside, even after charging batt., and adjusting points and plug gap, on an early winter morning. Went thru this winter dred with the truck for some 30 plus years until I installed electronic ign., Duraspark, few years ago and since then starting on cold mornings has not been an issue. Anyhow, had an urge to chime in and add my $.02.

dave

 

Sorry guys, have had some long nights in the garage...replaced distributor cap and rotor due to a little bit of corrosion, although not much. Did not help.

Number Dummy - thank you for the heads up, the battery was bought at Wal-Mart about a month ago, it has 1,000 Cranking Amps, and 850 Cold Cranking Amps. (Those are the numbers stated on the side of the battery)

85e150six4mtod - I forgot what the dwell meter said, but my dad and i set it to be right in the middle of the numbers given. Within the next few nights i'll do as you suggested-set it to one side of the numbers, then the other. As for the choke and fuel situation; carb was rebuilt last winter, new fuel pump last winter, new fuel lines from pump to carb, new fuel lines to fuel tank, and i also replace my fuel filter at every other oil change; roughly every 6,000 miles. Thank you for your input

daveengelson - i do plan on putting an electronic ignition in someday, the budget of a 17 year old can only go so far...but thank you, i'll put that a bit higher on the priority list. But i may try a Petronix coil, they say they are for 40,000 or 45,000 volts...although my coil is less than two years old...hey why not try it right?

thank you guys for helping, i just hope i can help you guys sometime when i come across a question in the forum i know the answer to.

 

XLER8TR pump giving a good shot of gas?Take of air cleaner and look inside carb and push throttle al the way open.Should see 2 streams of fuel.


DO NOT DO IT WHILE RUNNING

 

I'll check that out tomorrow night...thank you
but the weird thing is that once it's running, it's as if there was never a starting problem...runs perfectly after the hard start

 

Seems that all the basic are cover; but I would question the starter; they seem to cause motors to drag to start. not 100% the right answer; but if all other parts are strong like battery; cables; grounds; it only seems like the starter is not pushing its weight.

Blueovalbud; you mention your only 17; just think of the expertise your learning at a younger age verses what I'm learning at my age. Also it guys like you as well as others young who are going to keep these Slicks strong and running well. I commen guys & gals who desire the old classic more than the infulence of our world.

Good luck & keep us posted on your results.

Mitch

 

What weight of motor oil are you using?

 

Chaser- was not able to work on the truck tonight, will do tomorrow night

Customcab- yeah kind of nice being young still, thank you guys for the help, i can't wait to answer questions with my knowledge someday. I will take the starter out of the truck this weekend and bench test it, it says how to bench test the starter in my chilton manual.

TNT - I'm currently running 10w30, is this too thick of a weight for winter use? i know there's stickers on small engines (lawn mowers, etc.) about running lighter weight oil in colder weather, does this also apply to full size vehicles?

thank you guys, this is fantastic

 

10w30 shouldn't be a problem. I know my 1970 w/360 will start right up any time. It actually also has a block heater, but I dont really use it unless I know its gonna be really, really cold. Even then, I dont all the time. If its dragging, my guess would also be a weakish starter, but like you say, it starts fine after its run...
You say that you have to pump the gas a lot. Maybe the carb just takes time to prime and start working properly. I dont know how you would fix that though, but I'm sure someone else here would. Good luck
Garrett Schorran

 

Forgive me if this is a stupid question but you do pump the accelerator a couple of times before you turn the ignition key to start it right?
I wonder if the starter adjustment at the flywheel might be a bit close causing drag. Any noise from that area?
I wonder if the clutch might not be fully disengaging... Do you leave it in neutral and start it without depressing the clutch, pop the clutch in gear to start it, or pop the clutch in neutral to start it?

 

1 dont trust the wallmart battery. they might last three years or out the door. they have a very high exchange rate here. I like diehard or interstate. I have had a starter draw 250 amps on start. it would kill the battery in about 3 trys. so it could also be a problem. dont use the cheap battery cables you can pick up at the discount parts houses gett a good one 1 or 0 gage. the negitive lead should lead to the engine block then another wire to the frame. good luck

 

Diehard & Interstate are both made by Johnson Controls, one of the largest battery manufacturers in the US. Probably make the Wally world ones too.


John

 

my 2 cents. I have to agree with Jowilker. i think the starter is dragging. sometimes the rebuilds dont do what they're supposed to. cables should be molded ends(not the clamp type that has two nuts that bolt the cable to the connector, these things are notorious for failing ) and fairly heavy duty as this system uses a lot of juice on cranking. i have a 390 and it spins like crazy so i believe the starter isn't getting enough juice to sufficiently turn it or its weak. dutch