Just need to get a concensus from everyone on when to rebuild a motor! My old 72 has a tired 360....147K miles but until last year, sat for 8 years. Ive been working on it, had work done to it now for the last year. Hes running pretty good, but has been plagued with low oil pressure and noisy lifters. Ive tried various cleaners, various weights of oils, and even replaced the oil pump. It just worries me that the top end is not getting the lubrication it needs. How do you know when its time to stop trying the quick fixes and go for the major repairs? I know when I was in high school, dad had the compression checked on the truck and the results were great. But now, I know hes buring a little oil (although only smokes on start up) so Im sure the compression is not up where it should be. Since Ive been here in Oklahoma, Ive done the following work:

New Parts:
plugs, wires, distributor
starter
oil pump
water pump
fuel pump
carb
new gaskets and seals (except for rear main)
entire brake system
He will also get a new power steering pump and rear end in the next two months

I dont want to take him cross country or anything, but I want him to be reliable and be able to go on short trips without worrying about major engine failure. Is there something else I can try to get the upper motor lubricated? What are your thoughts on new motor vs. rebuilding mine? Part of me would want to have mine rebuilt if it comes to that. What do yall think? Also, I got my album set up! Thanks in advance...

 

Low oil pressure will cause noisy lifters as a lack of oil pressure will not allow them to keep pumped up. The new oil pump you installed didn't take care of the real problems that exist(worn main/rod bearings). The added clearance of worn bearings allow the oil to "leak" off easier thus decreasing the oil pressure. The oil pump feeds the cam bearings which then divert oil down to crankshaft and up to lifters/valvetrain. Since the oil is leaking past the main bearings so easily, that reduces the pressure going up to lifters.

Keep fresh oil in it(something thicker then 10w30), put a real pressure gauge under the dash to keep a real eye on what you actually have and drive it. As long as it doesn't have rods knock'n, you'll be okay. My 352 has 150K on it(all original) and has 10psi at idle and 40 psi going down the road.

As for how to handle it? A Jasper rebuild will get you up pretty quick and probably cheaper then rebuilding it yourself. Likely it will need bored(new pistons) and all the frills including heads rebuilt. No sense in shortcutting it as when done properly it will last another lifetime.

 

Good advice....I did put 10-40 in it today. Ill have to get an oil pressure gauge for it, I figured the original isnt too accurate. How do you know if its the lifters or rods knocking?

I got a quote last year for a Jasper motor...close to $4000....

 

hogbus, It sounds like you need to be getting ready. Don't know your needs or personality, but you can pick up used working engines for $250.00-600.00, a core for as little as $100.00. You have time, and you don't need to rush, but need to be looking or thinking about a rebuild or replacement before many more miles (that could be 10,000 or more).

Keeping oil in the engine is more important than oil pressure on the gauge. The ol FEs can rattle on for a long time at light duty use. IMHO


John

 

Lifters "tick" like a light metallic noise. Take a wood stick and tap it on a table.
Rods "knock" and very much more pronounced noise, though it still can be very light noise if not bad(yet).

Like John noted, the pressure isn't as important as the oil.

That Jasper quote sounds really high, but maybe that's the going rate for a reman FE? You can do better yourself rebuilding something if you really plan it right and watch your pricing.

 

im pretty sure its just the lifters at this point. One of my drivers at work suggested pulling the valve covers and checking the tightnes of the lifters with a torque wrench. Its def doing a lot better after the gunk flush and the 10-40 oil. There are a couple of garages here in the town, I can get more estimates for both the rebuild and new motor swap.

 

A quick check, Plug one spark plug wire off at a time while eng. is running. A rod knock will get louder when you found the bad rod bearing, Alot of FE fuel pumps make noise like a rod knocking so check that with a long wood dow or some type of long screw driver. it can fool a lot of people too.. my 2cent
orich

 

There is nothing in there to adjust, Fords lifters are hydraulic.

I doubt that you are going to be able to stop the clicking. I could be wrong but I still doubt it.

Find a 73-76 360 for a core, get a 390 crank and rod set, and either start buying parts or saving up your money for a rebuild. You should be able to drive the ol clicking engine for a while yet.

I see useable 360/390 engines for sale all the time for $400.00.

But hey, the brick wall is still there, don't stop banging your head on it if you don't want to.


John

 

I got a quote this week for a jasper 460 of 2400, Its hard to beleive the 360/390 are that much more expensive. Good luck

 

If you still want to keep looking to where the clicking noise is comng from and you really want to dive in and get your hands dirty. If you have a lot of clicking. One thing those stock dash gauges aren't up to par any more unless you've replaced the little voltage reg in the backside..This is why most of these old trucks have add on after market gauges put on them .. So your oil psi maybe okay, just worn rockers & shafts, A bent push rod or 2, A wiped cam lobe or 2, And hell i'll throw in a few bent muffler bearings at that! if you still can't find the trouble, Check them for the noise. lol.. my 2cents
orich