Hello!
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Junior User
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 59
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From: USA - New Mexico
Hello!
Hi everyone what a great forum, And boy do I need one because I have got one hell of a project! I now have 2 Aerostar a 1992 EB AWD, and a 1993 XLT AWD. I have had the 1992 one for 12 year but I got my new 1993 about 2 months ago. My 1992 aero is in good condition but but 1993 is down for the count. First it need a new transhipon and tranfercase, and new front end suspension. But I have a some questions first, hop you can help!
1. How can you stop the leak from the driver side passenger window, does anybody know how to do this?
2. Does any body know were you can get a good transition for an aero 4WD?
3. Also how do you get the sliding door open its stuck and the out side handle is broken, and the inside one does not chash.
Thanks
-SKaero
1. How can you stop the leak from the driver side passenger window, does anybody know how to do this?
2. Does any body know were you can get a good transition for an aero 4WD?
3. Also how do you get the sliding door open its stuck and the out side handle is broken, and the inside one does not chash.
Thanks
-SKaero
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 5,242
Likes: 0
From: Kiev, Ukraine
1. How can you stop the leak from the driver side passenger window, does anybody know how to do this?
_________________________________
Easily! With silicone sealant. Cleane all before work (I did it with alcohol) and pyt silicone inside. Not too much.
3. Also how do you get the sliding door open its stuck and the out side handle is broken, and the inside one does not chash.
Remove door trim/cover from inside the van (unscrue small screws with philips screw driver), ypu will see all the locking mechanics inside. I think you will easily find a sourse of troubles. I had door locking motor stuck closed. Used WD-40 to make it working.
_________________________________
Easily! With silicone sealant. Cleane all before work (I did it with alcohol) and pyt silicone inside. Not too much.
3. Also how do you get the sliding door open its stuck and the out side handle is broken, and the inside one does not chash.
Remove door trim/cover from inside the van (unscrue small screws with philips screw driver), ypu will see all the locking mechanics inside. I think you will easily find a sourse of troubles. I had door locking motor stuck closed. Used WD-40 to make it working.
Former ******
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 4,901
Likes: 2
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Originally Posted by Pablo-UA
Used WD-40 to make it working.
As far as sealing the window goes, silicone sealant is the only way to go, so you may have to wait till the weather will let you, or till you can keep it inside long enough for the silicone to cure.
As far as the tranny goes, why not rebuild it. The problem with swapping trannies from another vehicle is you have no idea what condition it is in. However, you can easily find out what is wrong with yours. You say the tranny is shot, what does it do? If you aren't afraid of it, you can rebuild it yourself. Just requires the ability to remove the trans from the vehicle. You should get a manual on the A4LD before attempting this.
Last edited by Bear River; Jan 6, 2008 at 09:26 AM.
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 192
Likes: 0
From: Illinois, usa
My window did that, the above posts are correct, use silicone.
I did NOT and regretted it - i employed a water based homeowner grade window caulk,
and it did seal properly, but it left stains on the paint, they would not even rub out.
It did rain the very next day, i think that was the reason, slow dry time allowed a little to wash out. I did take the window off, it's easy, a handfull of nuts and you're done.
That allows you to do it correctly.
Clean off the butyl before silicone, or buy some butyl and do it like the factory did.
I did NOT and regretted it - i employed a water based homeowner grade window caulk,
and it did seal properly, but it left stains on the paint, they would not even rub out.
It did rain the very next day, i think that was the reason, slow dry time allowed a little to wash out. I did take the window off, it's easy, a handfull of nuts and you're done.
That allows you to do it correctly.
Clean off the butyl before silicone, or buy some butyl and do it like the factory did.
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 7,010
Likes: 203
From: SoCal
The quick and dirty way to fix the leak is to use silicone sealant to cover the gap between the window molding and the body, after proper cleaning with wax and silicone remover.
To properly fix the leak would be a pretty big job; you have to remove the window, clean out the old sealant, and apply new sealant. This requires removing all the inside panels from behind the driver's seat.
The factory uses a butyl rubber sealant that never sets. So if it's hot enough, it will get soft and possibly flow away from its surfaces, and if it's cold enough, it will get hard and brittle.
There is a liquid form of butyl rubber sealant that you can get from most auto parts stores. If you can pry the molding enough to stick the nozzle in, you can apply the new sealant underneath. This can make the repair invisible and it will help avoid getting sealant onto the paintwork. However, you still need to warm up the molding to get it soft enough to work with, and try not to stress the glass in the process.
To properly fix the leak would be a pretty big job; you have to remove the window, clean out the old sealant, and apply new sealant. This requires removing all the inside panels from behind the driver's seat.
The factory uses a butyl rubber sealant that never sets. So if it's hot enough, it will get soft and possibly flow away from its surfaces, and if it's cold enough, it will get hard and brittle.
There is a liquid form of butyl rubber sealant that you can get from most auto parts stores. If you can pry the molding enough to stick the nozzle in, you can apply the new sealant underneath. This can make the repair invisible and it will help avoid getting sealant onto the paintwork. However, you still need to warm up the molding to get it soft enough to work with, and try not to stress the glass in the process.
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Junior User
Joined: Jan 2008
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From: USA - New Mexico
Hi everyone,
Thanks for your reply's, I think I just wait till spring/summer a pull apart the interior and fix it. Still need a transmission. Also does anyone know how to disconnected the starter so I can do a competition test?
Thanks for your reply's, I think I just wait till spring/summer a pull apart the interior and fix it. Still need a transmission. Also does anyone know how to disconnected the starter so I can do a competition test?
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 2,416
Likes: 1
From: Mitchell, SD
Welcome! 
As has been suggested, look into rebuilding your tranny yourself or have it profesionally rebuilt. If you pick up a used one, you are looking at getting into trouble. You don't know the history, and it will probably need rebuilt also.
As for the compression check (I believe that is what you are asking info about.) You do not disconect the starter, that is how you perform the test. (The starter rotates the pistons.) What you need to do is disconect the DIS or unplug the Crank Position sensor. Then you would have no spark.
Originally Posted by SKaero
Hi everyone,
Thanks for your reply's, I think I just wait till spring/summer a pull apart the interior and fix it. Still need a transmission. Also does anyone know how to disconnected the starter so I can do a competition test?
Thanks for your reply's, I think I just wait till spring/summer a pull apart the interior and fix it. Still need a transmission. Also does anyone know how to disconnected the starter so I can do a competition test?
As for the compression check (I believe that is what you are asking info about.) You do not disconect the starter, that is how you perform the test. (The starter rotates the pistons.) What you need to do is disconect the DIS or unplug the Crank Position sensor. Then you would have no spark.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 2,416
Likes: 1
From: Mitchell, SD
Originally Posted by SKaero
Sorry thats what I meant, So how do you disconnect the DIS or unplug the Crank Position sensor.
EDIT: The DIS Module is either located:
<TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=555 border=0><TBODY><TR><TD>Under hood, driver side, rear engine area, driver side of master cylinder, mounted on firewall</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
or
Under hood, passenger side, upper engine area, rear of air filter housing, mounted on fenderwell
Can't remember which position, and it is too dark right now to look.
Last edited by 93nighthawk; Jan 6, 2008 at 09:18 PM.
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 5,242
Likes: 0
From: Kiev, Ukraine
Swaping of A4LDs is not a problem usually, but pay attention on solenoids. Early A4LD has no solenoids, in 1987 1 solenoid for TC lock up appeared, from 1988 A4LD has 2 solenoids - first for Lock UP, other for OD clutch.
In '90-s in France appeared strange tranny called A4LDE with 4 solenoids (electronically controlled 1-2-3 shifting and OD, there is no governor in this tranny), later this tranny was improved and calles 4R44E, and later 5R55E was made on base of A4LD too.
Internal parts are similar, like TC, gears, shafts, but valve blocks, channels inside body are different.
In '90-s in France appeared strange tranny called A4LDE with 4 solenoids (electronically controlled 1-2-3 shifting and OD, there is no governor in this tranny), later this tranny was improved and calles 4R44E, and later 5R55E was made on base of A4LD too.
Internal parts are similar, like TC, gears, shafts, but valve blocks, channels inside body are different.
