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Cracked Manifold.

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Old Jan 3, 2008 | 09:16 AM
  #1  
Bear River's Avatar
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Cracked Manifold.

My mom's '92 3.0L has a cracked manifold on the passenger side and I know it will eventually need to be fixed. My real question here, is are they the same as teh manifolds on the Ranger, or in other words, if I used shorty headers meant for the Ranger, will they work. I know I'm usually the exhaust guy who answers these kind of questions, but I just don't know if they will work in this case, or if there are differences between the manifolds on the Ranger and Aero.
 
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Old Jan 3, 2008 | 06:31 PM
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They should bolt right up, but my concern is where they put the air intake, in the front or on the side like on the Taurus.
 
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Old Jan 3, 2008 | 07:07 PM
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different part #s
the stock cast iron Ranger driver side exh. manifold comes off the engine at a shallower angle than does the Aero manifold. the Aero outlet is more vertical pointing down

you may have problems with firewall clearance.

same part # used for Ranger and Aero on passenger side
 
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Old Jan 4, 2008 | 12:21 AM
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Pass side manyfolds are different. To weld is no reason. Time to visit a jankyard.....

Manyfolds crack becouse of temperature difference (hot manyfold, cold water, snow...).

The other enigma for me - removing manyfolds sometimes i see gaskets, sometmes not. There is no gaskets on my 3.0.
 
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Old Jan 4, 2008 | 09:33 AM
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Well, I would rather swith to a stainless steel header, they are more durable, lighter weight, and for the work involved in replacing them, why not do it right? I think I will get a set of headers from a Ranger if I can very they will fit.
 
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Old Jan 5, 2008 | 05:03 AM
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Not sure exaust pipe will fit Ranger manyfold. May be some midifications may be required.
 
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Old Jan 5, 2008 | 11:25 PM
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Not really a concern to me, the exhaust system has already been and can be modified to work. My main concern is that ti will fit in the available space without hitting the firewall, or interfering with something else.
 
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Old Jan 6, 2008 | 01:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Bear River
Not really a concern to me, the exhaust system has already been and can be modified to work. My main concern is that ti will fit in the available space without hitting the firewall, or interfering with something else.
i don't see why it wouldn't, when i look down on my aero, i see a good 3-4" of space between each ex. mani.
 
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Old Jan 6, 2008 | 01:18 AM
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Ok on second thought, i'm going to go to the bone yard when i sell my subs, get a second drivers door pannel, and cut the hole in my door. I'm *****'d any hoo if i get hit that hard.... thanks for the link!!! door pannel chopping time!! hehehe
 
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Old Jan 6, 2008 | 08:36 PM
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Originally Posted by DCRB
Ok on second thought, i'm going to go to the bone yard when i sell my subs, get a second drivers door pannel, and cut the hole in my door. I'm *****'d any hoo if i get hit that hard.... thanks for the link!!! door pannel chopping time!! hehehe

??????
 
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Old Jan 7, 2008 | 12:09 AM
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Originally Posted by 93nighthawk
??????
O SNAP!!! that was meant to be posted in the thread about my door speakers. sorry!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
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Old Jan 7, 2008 | 07:36 PM
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Ok 93Nighthawk, put the intake manifold back on! It's the EXHAUST it needs! Sheesh!!

Let us know how the headers work out Bear River, my driver's side is cracked on my 3.0.
 
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Old Jan 7, 2008 | 07:55 PM
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Originally Posted by TheHandyman
Ok 93Nighthawk, put the intake manifold back on! It's the EXHAUST it needs! Sheesh!!

Let us know how the headers work out Bear River, my driver's side is cracked on my 3.0.
Sorry, I had been dealing with leaking intake manifolds all day long that day.
 
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Old Jan 7, 2008 | 10:22 PM
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Gentlemen,

There is a stick welding rod that really works. It is known as nickle rod for cast iron. I have welded easily two thin cast turbocharger housings with this stuff and it works. It is an AC rod and is easy to use. I can recommend it for any cast work.

ken
 
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Old Jan 8, 2008 | 12:47 AM
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I am familair with nickel rod weld. I have never done it myself, but have found from observation of tother peoples efforts that it is not very successful on applications such as exhaust manifolds. The nickel rod has different thermal properties that can often transfer the thermal stress to the iron next to the weld. The result is a new crack next to the weld region. A better method is what is known as cast iron welding where you repair the cast part with a cast iron rod. The result is cast iron that is repaired with the same material. It is very durable when used in such applications, and can also be used to weld steel to cast iron.

However, my main point is that if you go through the effort to remove and install a manifold on an Aerostar, it may as well be a header, which is much stronger and lighter.
 
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