It got down to about 15 degrees here last week. After the first really cold night I went out to warm the truck up and the ABS light came on. We got some snow, so I was able to lock up the brakes and see if the ABS actuated -- it did not.

This morning I took it to the dealership and they pulled the following codes:

• C1115 - ABS Power Relay Short
• C1220 - ABS Warning <something something> Short (I can't read the guy's writing. Looks like ABS Warning Inv. Coder Short)
• C1222 - Speed Wheel Mismatch
• B1342 - ECU Internal Fault
• U3FFF - No Description

The dealership thinks all of these save for the C1222 will be fixed if I get a new ABS module. They gave me two part numbers for it, who knows if they are correct or not.

The "new" part number: 6L3Z-2C286-A
-or-
The "old" part number: 1L34-2C346-AA
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They want $429 for the part and another $250 for labor. I feel that I am pretty handy at wrenchin' so I'd rather find the part online or something and put it in myself.

Is this the ABS block (with all the brake lines running through it) under the hood? Or is this a plug in wired unit in the dash somewhere?

My truck is an 02 4x4 SuperCrew, so I believe it has the four wheel ABS.

 

All under hood.
Ford diag disc shows it's the same for 4.6 or 5.4 with 4wabs.
Disconnect power, remove the connector and any mountings.
Factory often changeds part numbers.
Look for one on the module and check to be sure for replacment.
B

 

Can you tell me where the module is located under the hood? Oh yeah, it's a 5.4.

Thanks!

 

Open hood, look under airfilter housing down low.
You should see a cable and plug into the end of an assembly that looks about the same size as the fuse box just above it..

 

Make sure the positive/negative wires are good going to the abs pump motor. I had a bad positve wire 2 years ago and fixed it with solder and heatshrink and then 6 mos ago light came back on. Dealer said I need new pump/module. It was like $800. I said no way and got looking at it one day and I could visually see the wire had green corrosion around the shrink wrap right at the motor again. For whatever reason the salt from the roads seems to collect on the abs pump. Sure enough the positive wire and this time also the negative wire had both corroded apart. Threw some new connectors on and problem is fixed.

 

Thanks thuzek, I will check on that. You may be on to something, since the screws holding the computer on the ABS pump were severely rusted.

I thought I found a new computer on Ebay, so I pulled it off in anticipation. I had to dremel the screws off to get it out. Then of course, the dude backed out on me. :-/

 

BenS77 I am chasing this problem also. the 6L3Z-2C286-A part number is for the Hydralic control unit (HCU) under the Electronic control Unit (ECU) located in the engine compartment drivers side. I would try the simple things first like the rear end sensor before replacing the expensive stuff ECU $800 new(rebuilt $125) and HCU $813 new Ford.
I had C-1096 code with the ABS light on all the time, code states ABS Hydralic Motor circuit open. Took the ECU to BAA re-manufacturer for testing and they said it was ok and tested it NO charge 1-866-573-2740.
I am in the process of looking at the HCU now in hopes of finding a bad wire.

By the way the screws rusted on the top of the ECU are Torx 20, get a quality hard tipped tool from ACE hardware, and use your 1/4 inch breaker bar. Try tightening first, then loosen, they should come out. If you have to replace them use M4x20 .70 pitch screws with a 3mm allen head they are inexpensive, Ford wants $7.00 each for the Torx 20 screws. Use copper thread lube on them.

 

Thanks spwjones. You really dug up an old thread! I don't even have the truck any longer. :lol:

I think my problem was the ABS computer. I ordered one through a junkyard parts network in Knoxville. They gave me the ABS computer and the aluminum ABS block underneath it for $80! I had no use for the block so I removed the computer and installed it in my truck and it worked perfectly. No more ABS light.

 

Ben577

Thanks for getting back to me.

I think I have found the problem which someone else also found. The HCU unit has a motor which I checked the motor leads and found the black ground lead broken off do to very bad corrosion, it hides itself pretty well under the factory shrink tube job. I am in the process of repairing it now. Wish me luck because the only other thing you can do is replace the whole HCU at $600-800 because the motor and HCU brackets are factory formed.

Thanks again.

spwjones

 

Well folks, it is fixed the C-1096 code, ABS hydrlic pump motor circuit open,ABS light on all the time is gone. I found the ground wire to the HCU motor was corroded completely through. I cleaned the black motor wire, cut it back a little, carefully stripped back the motor connection point, cleaned and re-soldered the connection by using a 12-10gauge wire connector to give it some strength. Used a combination of shrink tubing and liquid taped to make sure moisture stays out.

 

I was googling the part number for the ABS (HCU) when I came across your thread.

A dealer diagnosed my ABS engine light on and said I needed a ABC (ECU). I found a Ford dealer in Las Vagas (Silverstate Ford Parts) and ordered one for only $308 + core. No bad I though considering the local dealer wanted $700.

Getting the ECU unscrewed from the HCU really was a drag. We had to drill out the torques screw caps.

After replacing the ECU and disconnecting the battery to re-set the codes, I started it and the ABS light came on again. I thouht "Great, now I probably need to get the ABS (HCU) at the tune of $385"; still much cheaper than the local dealer's price of $800. That is when I found your thread on the corrosion problem of the (negative) wire of the connecting harness between the ECU and HCU hydraulic pump.

Sure enough, it was corroded down to a green power.

The problem at this point was,how was I going to get the now trimmed back piece of wire soddered to the not so visible negaitive terminal on the HCU hydraulic pump? My laid of Ford service advisor had gone home with his trouques wrench. I could not remove the ECU for clear access to the hydraulic pump negative terminal.

What I did was unsrew the hydraulic pump mounting bolts from the hydraulic manifold mechanisim and rotated it to get a more clean shot at working around the ECU.

Then, I had to chip away at the hard plastic insulation surrounding the pump's negative terminal until the solid copper post was exposed. Almost all the white hard plastic was removed at this point.

I smeared a ton of soder flux resin on the copper terminal and managed to get some sodder to stick. Then did the same to the trimmed back wire.

After sliding a shrink wrap insulator over the wire, I soddered the wire to the post and got a good solid bond. I feel like I got lucky, because it seemed like the white plastic resin that protects the terminal was melting and was interfeering with a solid bond.

I then took out one of my favorite tools (my hot glue gun) and added to the seal around the (terminal,shrink wrap& wire). The glue ended up bonding the insulted cover to the hydraulic motor housing. I did not want the wire to be bending and possibly break the soder bond. This should help seal out road spray and provide rigidity to the wire and connection.

I'm seriously considering removing the torques screws provided by Ford for the ECU and replacing them with some high grade stainless steel allen head screws. Somewhere in the string of messages for this thread, someone gives the size specification required.

All that being said....THANK YOU!!! to the guys who posted this information. You saved me about $385 in parts and I probably would have had the local dealer install the HCU because of the way the brake fluid needs to be blead. That would have been another $200 at least.

 

Hi Ben, did you finally get your ABS issue fixed? May you share how? I got almost the same error codes on my ABS. Mine is a 1994 E350 Motorhome tho. Thanks for your info!

 

Hi BenS77, did you finally get your ABS fixed? May you please share how? Mine has the same error codes. Thanks for your info.

 

You know all but one code says to check for an open wire in the harness.

The U codes are communication faults between the different modules present on your vehicle. The PCM has to maintain control via separate modules that monitor and control every aspect of it, from engine and emission control, transmission control, anti-lock, traction control, lighting, HVAC, suspension control, etc...
In layman's terms, the PCM cannot talk to the ECM/ABS and thinks it has bit the dust on the U3fff code.

If you check your wiring harness for a short or broken wire you more than likely fix all of the codes.

The C1115 FORD Possible Causes Faulty ABS Power Relay ABS Power Relay harness is open or shorted ABS Power Relay circuit poor electrical connection Faulty Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) Module
C1220 FORD Possible Causes Faulty Lamp ABS Warning Lamp ABS Warning harness is open or shorted Lamp ABS Warning circuit poor electrical connection.
C1222 FORD Possible Causes Wheels or tires mismatch Faulty Wheel Speed Sensor harness is open or shorted Wheel Speed Sensor circuit poor electrical connection.,is combined code with the other usual issues.
The B1342 code means that the Electronic Control Unit (ECU) has failed, or codes. Repair other problems before replacing the ECU

 

What wiring harness? the wires to the ECU? Mine has the 4 codes: B1342, C1220, C1222, C1226