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Hey guys i have been pretty busy lately and finally have a few minutes to install some things i got for xmas tomorow. I tapped for my egt probe today and installed my boost gauge. now for the questions
is it normal that my boost gauge cant hold a steady needle and it quickly flutters 1-3 pounds from where it should read like it cant be still and smooth? i also max around 28 with wastegate disconnected..this seems a tad low to me, i thought i would be able to hit at least 31?? maybe i am mistaken
for the tranny gauge, is the plug on the drivers side right above the pan towards the front. im thinking this is it but just double checking.
also, where do most of you guys hook into to tap for power for all of the gauges and what is the best way to do this. I.E. splicing all gauge power wires together and running them all to one power source and the same for all he lights? do any of you run the fusible link in the tranny sender power wire like the instructions "suggest"?
i also have an unrelated question...lately my PS pump had been getting slightly louder. just within the past day or two, my brake pedal has become limp. it is only normal firmness whenever you quickly hit it and hold some pressure on it. if you just slowly depress it it will sink to the floor, however the vehicle still stops, just not as effectively. reservoirs are full. any ideas?
thansk and sorry for the sloppy late night post,
Nic
I just tapped into the fuse box for power to mine. There's something wrong if you're getting flutter on the boost gauge. Mine is smooth. Sounds like you have the right port for the tranny temp probe. Oh, and you don't want to go over 25 psi with the stock turbo. Very hard on it and little if any gains above there. I used to get about 28 without the wastegate in the summer, but after I put in the WW, it dropped to around 25. Now that it's cold, I'm seeing a little more boost -- around 27 max. I don't think you'll see over 30 with the stock turbo. I've heard stories of over 30, but mine sure won't do it. Even if you do get it, it's killing the turbo anyway.
EDIT: On the brakes going to the floor, it sounds like you have air in there somewhere. Look for leaks at the calipers, and see if you can bleed them. I'm really not sure if the PS pump getting noisy is a coincidence or what. Ford pumps can get noisy -- a lot of guys flush the old fluid out and put in syn ATF. That usually quiets them down. I'm about to do mine because I can hear it now -- I think all the mods I have quieted the engine down enough that the PS pump noise is audible. My Ranger pump made noise the whole time until I traded it for the PSD at ~92k.
Can't remember exactly. I just found a fuse that switched with the key and used it. I may have even used one of the bigger ones. Admittedly, it's kind of a kluge, but it works.
I tapped the wire that feeds the instrument cluster lighting after the rheostat that controls brightness. That is how it should be done or your gauges will light up all the time, day or night. A waste, and not needed. AFAIK, the gauges need no other power source. Your boost gauge hookup has a problem. Should be a smooth sweep. You should not see above 24psi boost with a stock truck without a fooler and about 30 with one. Stay away from 30psi with a fooler unless you don't mind replacing the turbo, as mentioned.