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1983 - 2012 Ranger & B-Series All Ford Ranger and Mazda B-Series models

Lifter noise

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Old Jan 3, 2008 | 04:10 PM
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Lifter noise

Sorry for starting a new thread, but I felt that the title of my other thread wasn't at all indicitave of the problem, and I wasn't really getting any advice. The loudest sound I get while using a mechanic stethescope comes from the valve cover, and a mechanic who listened to it said the noise was coming from the valvetrain. Is this likely to be a stuck lifter? If so, how do I check?
 
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Old Jan 3, 2008 | 06:05 PM
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From: Oneida,Tn.
Is it a squeeling sound? If so it's the same that I'm experiencing. I found that it's actually a dry rocker arm. If its another sound like a chatter it could be a lifter,but you had better check with the resident techs for better advice.
 
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Old Jan 4, 2008 | 07:43 AM
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From the details you have given in this message it could be just about anything. What engine? What year?
A stuck hydraulic lifter will make a tapping sound at idle, with the frequency following the rpms. It may come and go. Or not. Some lifters will bleed out the oil after sitting for a while, and just tap until they are filled with oil again. Some will tap all the time.
What kind of sound are you hearing? Is it constant or intermittent? Does it follow the engine speed? Can you make it go away or cause it purposefully?
tom
 
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Old Jan 4, 2008 | 08:06 AM
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If it's an old engine with a lot of miles, you will hear tapping occasionally especially when the engine is cold.
 
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Old Jan 4, 2008 | 10:04 AM
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It's a 2000 Ranger with the 2.5L. It has 175xxx miles. I taps when the engine is cold, and gets faster/louder with higher RPM's. It steadily gets quieter the longer I drive it, until it basically disappears after 10 or so minutes of driving.
 
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Old Jan 5, 2008 | 11:26 AM
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That description sounds like a lifter that has bled down, and is slow to refill. You can try a 'mechanic in a can' but likely will have to replace or clean the noisy lifter. It is possible to remove a lifter without removing the camshaft, so you can take that route if you want to eliminate the noise. If you take any valve train components out, make sure you put them back where they came from. They get worn together and don't like to move.
tom
 
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Old Jan 5, 2008 | 12:48 PM
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How do I tell which lifter it is? Using a stethoscope, the sound is pretty uniform all the way down the valve cover.
 
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Old Jan 6, 2008 | 08:28 AM
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Well you could open it up 'cold' and crank it over by hand until you find the cam follower that is floppy... Or do the poor-mans-rust-proof by starting the engine with the cam cover off, and feeling which valve is getting hammered. By the way, make sure you have an oil catcher under the engine if you do this...
tom
 
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Old Jan 6, 2008 | 09:15 AM
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Seeing as how this is an older engine, with lots of miles & If you think deposits may be the problem & it kinda sounds like it may be & your of a mind to try a deposit cleaner upper, then maybe this would be a canadiate for a dose of "AutoRx" ester in the crankcase lube.

Or if the engine isn't loaded up too bad with deposits, maybe consider trying some "Marvel Oil", or "Seafom Engine Tune" & run it for a while, without any hard, long high speed driving & see if the noise improves, or stops.

If so, then change the oil & filter.

I used the Marvel Oil once, back in the early 90's, just long enough to quiet a noisey/collapsed lifter on my Merc Zypher 3.3L I6, then changed the oil & filter. It's still quiet!!!!

Just a couple more thoughts for pondering.
 
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Old Jan 6, 2008 | 01:30 PM
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What tool would I use to compress the valve springs? I rented this one from Autozone, but it was too bulky and wouldn't fit over some of the springs.
 
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Old Jan 6, 2008 | 03:08 PM
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Ford made a special tool, which I never saw. I used an old lever that had a double ended hook on the 'short' end. You need to hold the valve down enough to roll the cam follower out from under the cam and off the 'lifter' post. Then you can pull the lifter out of the socket. A C-clamp style will work if you have the head off the block, but I guess that does not apply. Use your ingenuity. Cobble something together.
WEAR GLOVES. The flashings on all the parts will cut the beans out of your hands if you fool around bare handed.
tom
 
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