New timing chain?
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New timing chain?
I talked to my trusty local shop about pinging not going away after Sefoam 3 times, changing different fuel brands and grade, replacing egr valve and sensor CEL is out but the pinging still.
he recomended to replace the timming chain because he said after 70k miles on these trucks you get a loose chain, how real is this?
My truck is a Ranger 4x2 5spd manual 3.0 v6.
I don't mind to have them replacing the chain since the front cover gasket is leaking coolant in one corner, and this is a big job removing everything in the front might as well just replace the chain too!
Anyone have had this pinging problem and can't get rid of?
he recomended to replace the timming chain because he said after 70k miles on these trucks you get a loose chain, how real is this?
My truck is a Ranger 4x2 5spd manual 3.0 v6.
I don't mind to have them replacing the chain since the front cover gasket is leaking coolant in one corner, and this is a big job removing everything in the front might as well just replace the chain too!
Anyone have had this pinging problem and can't get rid of?
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From: Durant, OK (SOSU)
Chains don't go out. If it was the four banger with the belt, I could understand replacing it. But a chain doesn't need service.
Does it do it at all times or just under hard acceleration?
Does it do it at all times or just under hard acceleration?
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Originally Posted by RangerPilot
Chains don't go out. If it was the four banger with the belt, I could understand replacing it. But a chain doesn't need service.
Does it do it at all times or just under hard acceleration?
Does it do it at all times or just under hard acceleration?
Back to the topic, what you're saying is correct about the chain not needing service, but you think it can strech a bit after a wile?
My mechanic told me metal friction between the chain and the tensioners can cause the chain to have more play, and "YES" it only pings when hard acceleration is needed!
I never thought about a bad chain with only 78K on the truck!
And what do you think about the tiny coolant leak from the front cover gasket?
Mechanic told me can't leak inside where the chain is or get into the oil, he said always leaks out, but I want to get a second opinion before I do the repair!
Thanks again RP!
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From: Durant, OK (SOSU)
If your truck had 3 or 400,000 miles on it, I might see it stretching the slightest bit. But not at 78K...period.
I'm not an expert on the 3.slow by any means...but if I had no oil in the coolant, coolant in the oil, and the leak was quite slow, I'd not worry about it other than checking and topping it off regularly. But that's just me, it's your truck, you do whatever makes you comfortable.
I'm not an expert on the 3.slow by any means...but if I had no oil in the coolant, coolant in the oil, and the leak was quite slow, I'd not worry about it other than checking and topping it off regularly. But that's just me, it's your truck, you do whatever makes you comfortable.
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Originally Posted by RangerPilot
If your truck had 3 or 400,000 miles on it, I might see it stretching the slightest bit. But not at 78K...period.
I'm not an expert on the 3.slow by any means...but if I had no oil in the coolant, coolant in the oil, and the leak was quite slow, I'd not worry about it other than checking and topping it off regularly. But that's just me, it's your truck, you do whatever makes you comfortable.
I'm not an expert on the 3.slow by any means...but if I had no oil in the coolant, coolant in the oil, and the leak was quite slow, I'd not worry about it other than checking and topping it off regularly. But that's just me, it's your truck, you do whatever makes you comfortable.
So what's next for the pinging after the seafoam, plugs, egr valve + sensor ?
Maf is clean, never change the sprk plug wires though?
I run 87 most of the time maybe I should stick to 89, but gas prices are not helping!
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From: Durant, OK (SOSU)
No, the engine should not ping on regular unleaded, period.
After cleaning and changing that stuff, did you reset the computer by disconnecting the negative battery cable for at least 20 minutes?
After cleaning and changing that stuff, did you reset the computer by disconnecting the negative battery cable for at least 20 minutes?
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Originally Posted by RangerPilot
No, the engine should not ping on regular unleaded, period.
After cleaning and changing that stuff, did you reset the computer by disconnecting the negative battery cable for at least 20 minutes?
After cleaning and changing that stuff, did you reset the computer by disconnecting the negative battery cable for at least 20 minutes?
Should I disconect the battery even if I don't have a CEL on?
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just try using a higher grade octane fuel,this may help as the epa has these things running so lean it's almost stupid but the chain should be fine at under 100,000 miles,i see alot of people here saying timing chains don't need replacing but this is not true,when you have 150,000 miles on it,it may work fine but i gaurantee you that it will have alot of slop in it resulting in a slightly retarded ignition timing and the gear teeth will be rounding off...but thats just my 2 cents worth....dave...
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Originally Posted by dsecurman1
i see alot of people here saying timing chains don't need replacing but this is not true,when you have 150,000 miles on it,it may work fine but i gaurantee you that it will have alot of slop in it resulting in a slightly retarded ignition timing and the gear teeth will be rounding off...but thats just my 2 cents worth....dave...
These 3.0 engines shoud run on 87 and not knocking.
I don't know if the 3.0 has a knock sensor, but if it has one it must be OK because there's no CEL warning?
Last edited by cadriver; Jan 3, 2008 at 10:47 PM.
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I replaced both my water pump and timing chain/gears at 250,000kms(150,000mi). some of the answers to your question are correct. because the gears and chain are metal they will last a long time. However, your mechanic is trying to give you a possible cause and cure. Yes my old chain had strectched a bit but didn't cause any pinging. The crank shaft gear was noticablely loose on the crank. The tensioer did show wear as it is a nylon/pastic guide. If you are going into the front of the engine for other reasons then go into it and change it. I have a 4l if that makes a differnce. How long has it been pinging? Maybe carbon build up. I believe pinging is caused by too much compression, low quality gas or advanced timing.
Last edited by mr.jinx; Jan 4, 2008 at 03:12 PM.
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Originally Posted by mr.jinx
How long has it been pinging? Maybe carbon build up.
carbon build up was taken care with 3 sefoam treatment from the intake and in the gas tank.
maybe I need higher octane?
One more thing!
the Crankshaft pulley has a timing sensor that reads the notches on the pulley,
can this thing be bad? There's no CEL!
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I edited some of my reply. Anytime I had a problem with pinging in any vehicle it was low octane and too much timing. Since you can't retard your timing then maybe the computer is not reading the crankshaft properly. Do you know if someone replaced the water pump or did any repairs to front of the engine that would knock the sensor off a bit. I also had an older engine ping due to carbon build up. took lots of chemical into the carb and sitting over night to get rid of it. If I think of anything else I'll post it. There was a TSB from Ford on Timing chains a few years back maybe this covered pinging.
Last edited by mr.jinx; Jan 4, 2008 at 03:29 PM.
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Originally Posted by mr.jinx
Do you know if someone replaced the water pump or did any repairs to front of the engine that would knock the sensor off a bit.
I did remove the sensor once and put it back the same way it was before.
It can only go one way there's no adjustments, takes two screws in place and it can't move at all!
I think usually a far advance timing can be noticeable all the time not only at hard acceleration, pinging, overheating and coolant boiling is also a clue of too advanced timing, a retard timing won't ping, it would make the engine to lose power but this is not my case!
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From: Darby, PA
Originally Posted by cadriver
never change the sprk plug wires though?
I would start with replacing the plugs. I changed mine out at 96K and the gaps were more than double what they should have been.