I just put a new solenoid on and copied the wiring exactly as was on the old one, but when i turn the key all i get is a loud whirring sound underneath the engine. Are there any ideas as to why it would do this??

thanks,
Adam

 

It sounds like your starter is turning , but not engageing with the flywheel, I take it everything worked fine before changing the solenoid. Why did you change it? Could the problem have been the starter?

 

My guess is the new solenoid has the reversed pins. Make sure you don not have power at the S terminal if you do thats your issue.but i also think the starter is toast.

 

the pins are different size that can't be the problem?? yes it worked fine before, but it was gettin intermittent. every once in a while i had to beat on it a lil or take a screwdriver and just by pass it. thought it would a quick easy lil project but noooo.

 

Should have bought a quality part.

These Ford type Relays (solenoids) are available at industrial places and they usually american made products.

 

i bought from advance auto (where shuld i go?) and i wire that way you show in diagram. =/ bad solenoid?

 

We got ours from advance as well. Let's look at some basics first, and go from there.


Ford used on many engines what's called a "movable pole shoe" starter. When you turn the key to "start" what happens is that the solenoid gets the voltage to the 's' terminal. That closes the relay/solenoid's contacts and sends battery voltage to the terminal on the starter. That creates a good size magnetic field with the windings of the starter which pulls the "pole" down and that part pushes out the small gear to the flywheel/flexplate ring gear.

Over time it's possible the starter windings have become a bit weak, and might not create enough of a 'magnet' to pull that movable pole down into place---Result? It'll spin, but not contact the ring gear. (it will remain retracted)

I'd suggest pulling the starter and taking it to a parts shop that offers free testing.

Also the usual stuff...make sure the battery contacts are totally clean and tight--and make sure the ground strap from the battery is making solid contact.

S-

 

oh no.. thats fun. you think it might be the starter even though everything else was workin fine before i change the solenoid.?? also, if yes could i maybe get some pictures of the starter? i do not quite know what i'm doing, and can't afford garage

 

The term is "starter drive " or some people call it a "Bendix"

 

That better describes the operation of this starter. (thanks to Wiki for the info)

http://www.partsamerica.com/product_images/aap/WRW/120.pdf

From advance auto's tech-tip area. Some information regarding possible issues due to those 'usual suspects' (battery, cables, etc...)

You can try a different soleniod and see if that's the problem. I did get ours via Advance, and it is a made in the USA product. (I agree with the prior postings about china's knock off products--their quality control is sorely lacking) Keep in mind that Advance sells the same solenoid type, made by several different brands.

I'd still give the wiring a full check over again and make sure all the contacts are good and tight.

Use a voltage test light, grounded with the battery's negitive. Remove the wire 'S' at the soleniod and insert the probe into that wire end. Have a helper turn the key several times to the 'Start' posistion. If the ignition wireing is correct--the light should flash "ON" every time the helper turns the key to "Start". And it should go "OFF" when the key is released.

My personal next test would be to inspect the wireing at the starter itself and make sure all connections are good and tight. Sadly people do forget when changing out battery cables that the starter cable takes a lot of abuse as well--and many do not bother to change it out. (see the tech tip from advance, it's helpful)

hmmm....you also never answered the question of what started this whole wing-ding? What was the starter doing/not doing before you changed the soleniod?

S-

EDIT: Wiki is wrong with #2. Ford did not do-away with the soleniod persay-- The soleniod is used--and the poster calls it the 'starter relay'. Not sure why it was goofed up? However the starter itself does not have a built in solenoid--it's seperate and bolted to the fender near the battery.

 

Ford had three different starter solenoids in the 1970's. Two have 4 connectors (like in Mi1ions pic), but look different. One has only 3 connectors.

Starter whines, but nothing happens: defective starter drive, and thankfully, there's only one...for all engines. D6PZ-11350-B (Motorcraft SD-302).

[D6PZ-11350-B replaced (in 1976) the earlier starter drive used from 1964 = C6VY-11350-A]

Starter whines, but nothing happens: the teeth on the flywheel (or flexplate) are stripped.

Rocking the truck back and forth by hand while it's in gear, sometimes will move the flywheel just enough to get to teeth that aren't stripped.

 

hmm i thought i said why i replaced, oh well here it is again. it was only working about 50% of the time. the others times i had to bang on it a little, or even use a screwdriver to go around the solenoid. Should i just go ahead and put a new starter on?? i know that everything is hooked up right and i bought new terminals for my battery and tightened em down good. Its just making the whirring noise, sounds kinda like a loud fan, underneath the engine. thanks for all the help, ya'll are great

 

My guess is that you had a combination of problems. Sounds to me like the starter is not engaging. Pull it off and have it checked.

 

as shown here.

 

My moneys on the starter.... It does raise an interesting point about the ring gear on the flex plate/flywheel. Thankfully if the truck is just jacked up in place (or as I've done...crawled under the beast) The ring gear will not have moved, and when the starter is removed? You can peek inside and see that section of the ring gear that the starter should be making contact with.

Here's a nickels worth (less tax) of free advice. If you want to know if it's a ring gear or starter? You can take an socket on a breaker bar and using the crank pully? Give the engine a turn a few degrees. The idea being that if that section of ring-gear teeth are broken? Turning the engine with a breaker bar should get that bad section past the starter area--and hence should allow the starter gear to engage and turn the engine.

Sidebar note: I've seen a lot of broken teeth on a ring gear---but I've never found a ring gear itself busted off the flywheel/flexplate. If it's got broken teeth on the gear? Just turning the engine about 1/4 or so a turn? That'll be enough to find out what's what.

Also if you replace the starter? Do yourself a HUGE favor and change out the main starter cable at the same time. It does not cost a huge amount for that cable, and it's good peace of mind.

Best regards

S-