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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

carpet

 
  #16  
Old 01-08-2008, 08:54 PM
49willard
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Truxx. I think I understand what you mean by a "jaguar cut-I suppose it could go with my Jaguar IFS". I have been following this thread with interest. Can you expand on your original response for the case of a low tunnel (like I have and is stock on the F-1's). I would be interested in the possibility of forming, as in one piece, the floor carpet. What and where would I buy carpet that can be "formed" or did I read too much in your original post.

Thanks for letting us pick your brain a bit.
 
  #17  
Old 01-09-2008, 07:34 AM
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Hey man, it's no big deal, I'd love to help! The kind of carpet best for forming has a plastic back on it. The best way to form it is to get a heat lamp, put it in a 5 gal bucket, turn it on then have your carpet marked where you need the tunnel fromed. Then place the carpet over the bucket, carpet side UP, let it get the back warm. Then make your tunnel, using another 5gal bucket or whatever is handy? When it cools off, Voila You have your tunnel! You may need practice, but that's the basic principal.


gotta run
 
  #18  
Old 01-09-2008, 08:10 AM
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49W for a low hump like OEM in our trucks fabric backed automotive carpet can be glued and formed over it (with help from a steamer?) The pile and padding will hide any minor wrinkling. Start with the hump and work outwards, smoothing as you go. Compress the carpet into place, don't stretch it. For more pronounced contours be sure you get carpet without stabilizers added to the backing (stabilizer usually look like a rubbery coating sprayed on the backing fabric). Traditionally large humps and contours would be done multipiece with the seams sewn or simply tucked into slots cut in the padding on inside corners. The pile will blend and hide a lot.
 
  #19  
Old 01-09-2008, 08:21 AM
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Truxx and AX, Thanks for the replies. If you take a look at my Gallery under seat installation you can see the "hump" on the floor that I am talking about.
Truxx, would you use the heating process to form over that hump. I also wanted to go up the firewall for a distance. Separate piece recommended? I don't have sewing capability (just about everything else but not sewing!).
 
  #20  
Old 01-09-2008, 08:49 AM
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IMHO that's a pretty shallow hump, and you should be able to shape the carpet over it in one piece. Much carpet sewing/seaming is done by hand except for edge binding, there are also heat activated seaming tapes carpet installers use.
 
  #21  
Old 01-09-2008, 09:13 AM
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I have the higher hump on my 56 and the carpet kit I ordered didn't have anything made special to compensate for the hump. The instructions did say to lay the carpet out on the ground in the sun for about a half an hour. I did it in the summer time, so it was fairly hot weather. especially here in CA. The heat made the carpet real plyable and flatened out the carpet nicely (carpet came rolled in a tube) which made the install a piece of cake. No problems covering hump. I used 2" wide velcro strips on both ends (under the dash and back of cab) to fasten the carpet. I also recommend 3M adhesive glue in spray can. Works great fastening down places that don't want to stick.
 

Last edited by imlowr2; 01-09-2008 at 09:16 AM.
  #22  
Old 01-09-2008, 04:28 PM
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Originally Posted by 49willard
Truxx and AX, Thanks for the replies. If you take a look at my Gallery under seat installation you can see the "hump" on the floor that I am talking about.
Truxx, would you use the heating process to form over that hump. I also wanted to go up the firewall for a distance. Separate piece recommended? I don't have sewing capability (just about everything else but not sewing!).

Hey 49W, I tried this at lunch time, and it knocked me off after I typed ALOT!! I'll try again, The tunnel you have will probably be able to be covered out of one piece, and not have to be heated. First you need to pad the floor with jute padding, you need to use contact glue NOT 3M spray glue. The kind you need is what they use to glue Formica countertops on with. You can get it from Lowes, or Home Depot. You probably don't have a heavy viscosity spray gun like we use to spray glue so you'll have to brush it on with a paint brush. You need to put glue on both parts the floor and the padding. You need to get the padding glued down GOOD!! Take a screw driver and use it to push the padding down into the contours of the tunnel. You may want to add some padding to the sides of the tunnel to make it a smooth transition to the floor?

That way it dont stick up like an abrubt shape out of the flat floor. After you've padded it up to suit you, and I cant emphasize enough to make sure you get it glued down good. Then you measure your carpet and cut enough to do it from side to side allowing for the hump. Then make a center line on the carpet with chalk. Then put glue only on the hump and the carpet that will cover the hump (tunnel) and glue down that area first real good!! push it down with the screwdriver. Then work it to the outer edges of the truck. We always make the nap of the carpet go to the back of the vehicle, and to the driver's side.

There is a product called Superflex, and one called Ozite. The Superflex is the best of the 2 and is decent carpet. It will take almost any trans tunnel, if everything is glued good. If you plan using a good floor mat, you could get by with the Superflex. I don't know anyone who sells it other than our manufacturer. The name of the co we buy from is the Miami Corp. I'm not sure of the website, but I do know they do sell retail.

I hope this helps, if you have any questions email me at [email protected]
 
  #23  
Old 01-09-2008, 04:58 PM
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I use a cheap 4" paint roller to apply contact cement, works much better than a brush. Use two coats, let the first dry completely before adding the second coat with a fresh roller cover. Don't try to use the same roller for both coats or you'll end up with a nicely carpeted roller.
 
  #24  
Old 01-09-2008, 06:04 PM
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Not sure why you can't use 3M? I did my door panels, carpeting, headliner, kick panels. My carpeting looks great with no problems. It's been 2 years and still looks great. Is my interior going to fall apart soon???? Now I'm wondering
 
  #25  
Old 01-09-2008, 06:13 PM
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TRUXX and AX. Good input-many thanks. I have copied these posts to a word document that I will save for once I am ready to tackle the carpet. I am still finalizing the body for final paint so it will probably be next year that I go at the carpet. I feel much better about tackling the task now.
 
  #26  
Old 01-09-2008, 10:36 PM
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IMHO the rattle cans don't apply enough glue to do a good job of holding complex shapes and they are expensive.
 
  #27  
Old 01-10-2008, 07:27 AM
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Originally Posted by imlowr2
Not sure why you can't use 3M? I did my door panels, carpeting, headliner, kick panels. My carpeting looks great with no problems. It's been 2 years and still looks great. Is my interior going to fall apart soon???? Now I'm wondering
Where you live, you might be ok? But around here the climate is so, that it changes all the time. It goes from real humid to real dry, and the spray bomb glue wont do well in this area. We use spray glue out of a can to glue down our material to the foam prior to stiching, but that's all. We just always use the regular stuff for door panels and such. What kind of material is on your door panels? The spray glue does better with cloth than it does with vinyl.
 
  #28  
Old 01-10-2008, 03:53 PM
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OK, for all of you who want the carpet hold downs, here's the part# Ring is XBS 10123 and the socket is XXX10222. These are sold through the Miami Corp. I think the site is themiamicorp.com I'm not sure?


IMLOWR2, as for your question, I asked my dad and he said there are several different 3M spray glues out there. He said there is one that is almost as good as our regular contact glue. I also asked him if someone could spray glue through a regular paint gun. He said if you bought a cheapo from wally world or HF, you might have to drill the spray nozzle out a little bit, but you could probably make due with one. If you planned to use it again, make sure you clean it out with lacquer thinner. But, dad did say, that there was a good grade of 3M spray glue that would work for some of this stuff. I think it's in a black can?



I hope this helps
 
  #29  
Old 01-10-2008, 05:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Truxx1956
What kind of material is on your door panels? The spray glue does better with cloth than it does with vinyl.
I'm currently using black vinyl on the doors. I am using the stronger 3M stuff (can't recall the number right now). I also stapled the material to the back of the pegboard which I used. The vinyl is a bit thick for my liking but is durable and cheap (about $15 for the material) to use. My headliner is black suede material, which I think I may replace the vinyl with instead of the vinyl on the doors. I also went with the vinyl on the door panels because I have kids and they tend to kick the panels getting out. My bench seat is done in black vinyl. Actually, Fatfenders turned me on to 3M way back in the days when I started the project. 3M is expensive, but it's my opinion that it beats buying a spray gun or several packages of rollers, especially since I don't do upholstery on a frequent basis, not to mention is clean and mess to cleanup. Great info Truxx, thanks and thanks to your dad also.
 

Last edited by imlowr2; 01-10-2008 at 05:33 PM.
  #30  
Old 01-10-2008, 06:03 PM
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I have used 2 different 3m spray glue products for yrs.,and the Products are decent for the insulation,and now not to certain if good enough in Ohio for carpet-on side walls or ceilings you would probably see it fail. Very humid at times and damp.
Bill
 

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