Wheel Cylinder Replacement - How Difficult?
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Wheel Cylinder Replacement - How Difficult?
Hello All,
So, I posted last night about having a leak somewhere in the brake system. This morning, I found the location of the leak. It appears to be coming from the left rear drum, so my guess is that the wheel cylinder is shot.
How difficult is it to replace this? I have the Ford Manuals at home, and I'm definately willing to give it a shot. However, there are some things to consider, including: 1) it's terribly cold where I live, and unfortunately, my garage is too small to pull the truck in, and 2) my wife and i are now down to one car, so i need to fix this ASAP.
I called a buddy of a buddy who owns a shop, and he said he could do it for around $200 or so. is that a reasonable price?? I'd really like to give it a shot myself, but i don't know if i have the confidence or the time flexibility.
Any help/advice would be greatly appreciated!! thanks!!
'93 F150 XLT
So, I posted last night about having a leak somewhere in the brake system. This morning, I found the location of the leak. It appears to be coming from the left rear drum, so my guess is that the wheel cylinder is shot.
How difficult is it to replace this? I have the Ford Manuals at home, and I'm definately willing to give it a shot. However, there are some things to consider, including: 1) it's terribly cold where I live, and unfortunately, my garage is too small to pull the truck in, and 2) my wife and i are now down to one car, so i need to fix this ASAP.
I called a buddy of a buddy who owns a shop, and he said he could do it for around $200 or so. is that a reasonable price?? I'd really like to give it a shot myself, but i don't know if i have the confidence or the time flexibility.
Any help/advice would be greatly appreciated!! thanks!!
'93 F150 XLT
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2005
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Replacing a wheel cylinder is not that hard-if you have luck on your side. Ease off the adjuster and pull the drum. Clamp the flex brake hose. Undo the brake pipe at the wheel cylinder and then undo the two small studs holding the cylinder to the back plate. You can then remove the cylinder, usually without disturbing the shoes at all. Install the new cylinder release the clamp on the flex hose and bleed the new cylinder. If nothing is siezed the whole job should take less than an hour.
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2007
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It's a basic mechanical job. When I was an apprentice mechanic, it was the next step up after doing oil changes and replacing belts or hoses.
$200 is a bit steep for a wheel cylinder replacement, unless replacing the shoes and turning the drums (both sides) is included in that price.
To do the job you'll need a couple of screwdrivers, a lug wrench, and a flare nut wrench to remove the fitting. You'll also need a good pair of pliers for installing the springs. You can borrow these tools from Advanced Auto parts or Autozone if you don't have them. A can of brake cleaner will be handy to clean off everything before you begin to remove parts.
It would be best to jack up both wheels off the ground and remove both brake drums, that way if you forget which part goes where, or how it goes on, you can look at the other side and see.
$200 is a bit steep for a wheel cylinder replacement, unless replacing the shoes and turning the drums (both sides) is included in that price.
To do the job you'll need a couple of screwdrivers, a lug wrench, and a flare nut wrench to remove the fitting. You'll also need a good pair of pliers for installing the springs. You can borrow these tools from Advanced Auto parts or Autozone if you don't have them. A can of brake cleaner will be handy to clean off everything before you begin to remove parts.
It would be best to jack up both wheels off the ground and remove both brake drums, that way if you forget which part goes where, or how it goes on, you can look at the other side and see.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 19,402
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From: Bonita Springs FL
$200 is insane for replacing a wheel cylinder. You need new friends if that's what they are charging you for this simple job.
Aside from what's already been said (most of which is correct) there is a special tool you will need to disconnect the springs from the post near the top of the backing plate. If you don't have this tool, it's going to be very painful, especially in the cold. Check out a local parts store and tell them what you're doing, they should have a brake spring tool that will work for you.
Most reputable brake shops will replace both cylinders, but you can get by with just doing the one.
After you replace it, you will have to bleed that wheel. It's not necessary to bleed the whole system unless you run the master cylinder dry for some reason.
Aside from what's already been said (most of which is correct) there is a special tool you will need to disconnect the springs from the post near the top of the backing plate. If you don't have this tool, it's going to be very painful, especially in the cold. Check out a local parts store and tell them what you're doing, they should have a brake spring tool that will work for you.
Most reputable brake shops will replace both cylinders, but you can get by with just doing the one.
After you replace it, you will have to bleed that wheel. It's not necessary to bleed the whole system unless you run the master cylinder dry for some reason.
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Junior User
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ok. slowly, i'm feeling a little bit better about doing this job myself. from what i've read here, it sounds like i don't have to remove the shoes or the hub, correct? just remove the drum, clamp off the necessary hoses, remove the springs (special spring removing tool noted), swap out the wheel cylinder, and then bleed the wheel (and maybe the entire system if need be).
of course, this all sounds easier said than done!!
of course, this all sounds easier said than done!!
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 19,402
Likes: 38
From: Bonita Springs FL
Your first time will take a little longer, no doubt. For someone who's done this before, it's about a 20 minute job from end to end.
Sounds like you have a good handle on it.
If the brake line is rusty, there is a chance of snapping it off. To help reduce this chance, soak it in PB every day for a couple days before. When you go to disconnect it, tighten it first, then loosen it. If the worst does happen, you can go to a parts store and get a section of line for it.
Sounds like you have a good handle on it.
If the brake line is rusty, there is a chance of snapping it off. To help reduce this chance, soak it in PB every day for a couple days before. When you go to disconnect it, tighten it first, then loosen it. If the worst does happen, you can go to a parts store and get a section of line for it.
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