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Should I get a set of stock type springs for my '51 from a catalog (Mac's, Obsolete, etc.) and customize the pack for ride height, etc. (taking out leafs), or should I go through Eaton's and purchase springs that are already specific for my engine/tranny, ride height, etc.?
I know what most of you will say..... go IFS.
I have always had it in my mind that I would put the leaf spring front suspension back on, knowing what the drawbacks of it are and the benefits of IFS. Call me whacky
For what it's worth, I looked into front Leafs from JC Whitney (SteelCraft).
I don't like Whitney's China junk and I generally believe you get what you pay for but.... these are new American Springs. I'm gonna remove a few leafs.
Price ? $195 for the pair. Add a promo code of $35. $160 including shipping to my door in California.....
The general rule is to remove 1,3,5,7 but I like to keep 7. It's good for about 1.5-2" and doesn't seem to be a problem with a V-8 installed. Rides pretty well.
In the rear (because a Real Truck hauls stuff) I stay with 8 leafs and reverse the eyes on the main.
So, the consensus is (from two people anyway), to buy from a catalog, JC Whitney, and customize it myself. That is cool. My pocket will like that idea. I was actually leaning towards that way.
Where in the catalog did you find them? I used to get JCW a few years ago, but I don't remember seeing springs for the old Ford trucks. And you say take out the odd number leaves? And how are you counting? From the main spring down or from the bottom up?
Eman, you said that you reversed the eyes on the main? Did you buy reversed springs or just unbolted the pack, turned the main spring over and rebolted the pack?
You can't reverse the Main Leaf. I have seen where folks have re bent them backwards with a press but......
You can buy main leafs with reversed eyes from various places. I think Mid-fifty had them in my catalog for $60 but when I checked on their site they were like $150 ea. ouch.
You can find the springs in Whitney's web-site. You load in your truck info and it will take you to another page. Click on "suspension" and you should be able to find it.
Sorry I can' answer most of your questions but to reverse the spring eyes the main leaf needs to be re-arched. It can be done at home or by a spring shop. Let us know how it turns out. I am intending to keep the original springs and re-arch both the front and rears and maybe removing a few leafs. Good luck.
IMHO If you are lookingtfor new springs for a custom application, why bother buying a new set of replacement springs and then modify them hoping the finished assemblege will work as desired. Go directly to Eaton and give them the parameters you want and have a set custom made. There isn't a significant difference in price since you are not paying for pieces you're not going to be using, and if there is a problem you can go back to them for help.
all right guy's im not trying too , but what about bump steer ? we've had many ask these questions including myself and i've been dissuaded due to everyone saying bumpsteer is gonna be a beeotch . so ? ........... cause if it ain't mines getting done whilst it's down for the other repairs . i got the 49 i can get roadworthy and use as a truck now .........
Bump steer is nothing new to me.I drive a 84 Jeep. You want to talk about bump steer....... Plus, I've heard leaf sprung straight axles will have some amount of bump steer.
Although that is a good question. Does modifying stock type springs cause any steering problems?
You can also get the posies springs through Speedway. About $300.00 for the fronts and $300.00 for the rear. Maybe a bit pricey but like my Dad aways impressed on me, there just some things you don't try and be cheap on.
With our trucks, dropping the springs as opposed to dropping the axle, will cause a loss of caster, i.e. the amount the kingpin tilts back from vertical. The caster was minimal from the factory so that can put you into zero to reversed caster situation. Caster is what makes the wheels want to drive straight ahead rather than following every rut, bump or crack in the road. This is not truely bump steer per se, but it is most commonly what those experiencing it refer to as "bump steer" (correctly this wandering along highway undulaltions due to insufficient caster is called "tramlining")
Tramlining can be corrected by increasing the caster to 2-4 degrees with tapered shims between the axle and spring.
What can cause bump steer (a change in wheel direction with up and down movement of the suspension without turning the steering wheel) with a solid axle is an extreme drop where the drag link is not parallel to the pavement when the wheels are straight, or moving the steering box forwards or back causing the drag link to describe a significantly different arc than the axle/spring.
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