Ball Joint(s) testing procedure
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2005
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Ball Joint(s) testing procedure
I've been needing to get my rig aligned since I put new tires on it. It has 121K miles on it. The two shops I took it to said the ball joints were shot and I had to replace them before any alignment can be done.
I lifted the truck and tried to see if the wheels had any "up and down" play in them and they seemed tight to me. At these shops I took it to, they didn't have back there long enough to do even that much so I'm wondering if they just looked at the mileage and assumed the ball joints were shot.
The reason the alignment is out is because the old lady had an accident that kinda knocked it out a bit.
So how do I determine if my ball joints really need replacing?
Thanks in Advance!!
Scott
I lifted the truck and tried to see if the wheels had any "up and down" play in them and they seemed tight to me. At these shops I took it to, they didn't have back there long enough to do even that much so I'm wondering if they just looked at the mileage and assumed the ball joints were shot.
The reason the alignment is out is because the old lady had an accident that kinda knocked it out a bit.
So how do I determine if my ball joints really need replacing?
Thanks in Advance!!
Scott
Freshman User
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 35
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From: Guyton, GA
You first need to jack up the vehicle and support it by the chassis. After that is done, place a jack under the lower control arm and aply upward pressure and see how much movement there is. I think 1/8 is the max, but I would probably say with 121,000 + on the vehicle, it is time. If you are mechanically inclined, you can replace all the ball joints, idler arm and tie rod ends for about $400.00. This does not include the price for the camber/caster bolt kits. You will need (4) of them to replace the hardware used on the upper control arms.
