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Just got my first pickup at 20 years old after having 2 wranglers. It's a 1996 F-150 single cab, shortbed, 2" BL, 33" At's, 5spd manual, with the 302. She's got 134xxx on the ticker, but runs damn near perfect. I paid $1200 for her outright, and I got a kiler deal (public auto auction)
I have a couple of questions about the truck, and I'm hoping you guys might be able to just toss me the answers, preventing this college kid from needing to do MORE freakin' research.
What axles do I have under my truck?
I have A/C, but I don't want the A/C, for power and economy reasons. It's in need of a re-charge anyhoo. If I pull the compressor, is there a belt designed for my truck without A/C? Will I need to plug the lines, and what should I use for that?
The horn doesn't work, and I need to get that going for inspection. Are there any common problems that these trucks run into with the horn? So I don't have to go on a wild goose chase thru the electrical system.
and please feel free to add any other common place knowlege about this series truck that many people find out only by owning one for anumber of years.
Welcome Theres a lot of helpful people on here....My horn didn't work before neither and it was just a fuse..If i remember correctly it was combined with the running trailer lights and it blew from that...I would check the fuse first...What kind of engine you got in it???
Good Luck
You have the TBB up front and usually the 8.8 out back. Some did come with a 9" rear. On my F350 the truck did not come with AC and has a ac delete pulley. It cost me 30 bucks at Autozone to replace mine as the bearings went. This is what the item looks like, this isnt the one for your truck tho. So here ya go. http://www.1aauto.com/1A/ACBypassPul...opping.com_cut If your horn doesnt work, there are a few things to ck 1st. Is the fuse blown? If thats good ck to see if you have power at the horn its self. If you have power at the horn when the button is pressed, then you need a new horn, if no power then you have to look into the button, and then the steering wheel.
Not sure on this, but every airbag-equipped vehicle I've had has a clockspring which controls power to the horn, cruise (if equipped), airbag, etc. Is your airbag light on?
If the clockspring is the culprit, BE CAREFUL! It's not something just anybody should tackle. There are some safety precautions you should follow. I had the dealer fix the ones I've had go bad. I didn't want an unexpected shot to the face (or any other body parts) from an exploding airbag!!!
Last edited by jnewkirk77; Dec 30, 2007 at 11:51 PM.
I have removed the AC compressor on a few of my trucks, and there was always a non AC belt available.
You have a Twin Traction Beam - TTB dana 44 up front and a Ford 8.8 in the rear(unless the PO swapped it out).
The 9 inch rear end left the line up in the mid 80s on the F150s, but the 8.8 is plenty strong.
Shocks and alignments are a must for older trucks, check steering parts and front end bushings too. I don't want to bum your day, but these items need attention after awhile - 11yrs to say the least.
If it has cruise control - Check the VIN and see if the recall on the fusible link was taken care of.
The horn thing will be a trouble shooting deal to say the least. I am sure you know the drill.
Fuse is good, and there is no power going to the horn with the button pressed. Both buttons on the wheel seem to be sticky and don't depress easily. The horn blew when I hardwired it, so that will be my worst case scenerio.
I have the 302 hooked up to a manual shift.
The airbag light is not on, none of the idiot lights are lit up when the truck is running. As mentioned above I've owned Wranglers... old wranglers. I've never actually had airbag equipped vehicles, and i pulled both of the steering wheels.
What is a clockspring, and can I pull the steering wheel to check the buttons without worry?
It needs a balancing, and I was going to have it aligned at the same time. The shocks are fairly new, and work as they should. The bushings, and everything up front for that matter, is snug and doesn;t seem to be a problem. i gotta get a new tube of grease, but I'm going to grease everything up soon.
I took it to get inspected (MA), and it only failed for the horn, as expected, so now I have 60 days to figure it out... no problem.
Thanks for the welcoming, and for the info, I'll be around
There is no reason to remove the AC. If you do not turn it on it simply acts as an idler pulley and will not use any power. It only drags on the engine when the compressor is running and you have complete control of that. I am sure you will enjoy having a Ford. Welcome.
you may wan to pull the gauge cluster and check for blown bulbs i never relized my check engine light bulb was blown till i tore the engine down for a blown hean gasket and then a fellow mechanic pointed it out when we went to restart it after wards boy didnt i feel stupid
As I mentioned, the clockspring provides power to the airbag and also completes the horn and cruise circuits. As a spring, it's "loaded" so power can be provided to the airbag in case of a loss of electrical power. (At least that's how it was explained to me.) It "unloads" when the airbag goes off, if it's tampered with or handled incorrectly.
That's why I suggested using caution, because if it unloads on you, you're gonna get an airbag comin' at you with full force and fury, which can be harmful to your health!
I've not had to take the wheel off of an airbag-equipped Ford. You may check with a dealer, trusted mechanic, body shop or even a Haynes manual. There's a way around it, you just gotta be careful.
One more option: If nothing else (and I did this on a Cadillac that had a tilt/telescope steering column when it was going to be too expensive to have it rewired), you could always wire the horn to a button or switch on the dash since you know for a fact that the horn is good from testing it. It's the cheap way out, and if your state's inspection rules don't specifically forbid that, it would save you a lot of trouble.
Last edited by jnewkirk77; Jan 5, 2008 at 02:32 AM.
As a spring, it's "loaded" so power can be provided to the airbag in case of a loss of electrical power. (At least that's how it was explained to me.) It "unloads" when the airbag goes off, if it's tampered with or handled incorrectly.
I believe the above is total NONSENCE.
It's called a clockspring because it somewhat resembles a big clockspring, but in actuality it isn't a SPRING at all, just a coiled up contact strip so that it winds and unwinds as the steering wheel turns one way or another.
To remove the airbag, simply disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery, then remove the 4 bolt/screws from the rear of the steering wheel holding the airbag. Then carefully pull the airbag off a little, and unplug the connectors to it.
Welcome jimaug87...............just be sensible and careful and you should have no problems.
There is presently a recent thread titled "1987 to 1986 tech info" with two links to clockspring removal and airbag stuff.
Last edited by netscaner; Jan 5, 2008 at 07:52 AM.
Netscanr, I only posted that because that was how it was explained to me by a mechanic. He may have either oversimplified it for my benefit or I may have misunderstood. Either is possible ... particularly the latter!
Regardless, caution is still advisable. If you accidentally apply 12 volts to the wrong place, it can still cause a deployment.
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