bare 351w heads(DO0E)
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bare 351w heads(DO0E)
I picked up a set of 351w heads(with valves) and i plan to put them on my 302HO, question is what kind of springs, rockers, push rods do i need to get. im keeping the stock cam/lifters as they are in good shape and putting an edlebrock intake/carb on it. i have no idea what kind of springs i need, id assume that the pushrods would be the same as with the 302 heads? and from what ive seen on here im going to go with 1.7 RR. anyone got suggestions on the springs? also ive read a couple times that the older heads didnt have valves that where designed for unleaded fuel. how do i know if the valves that came with these heads are going to be suitable for todays gas? i dont plan on getting bigger valves and id like to use the ones that came with the heads, although i have started to do a port job on the exhast side, ive looked at the pics Hemieater has posted and it didnt look to difficult and ive done my fair share of metal grinding. any and all help would be great.
Chris
Chris
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From: Earth
Any good aftermarket spring should be fine, search the Summit website for '70 model 351W.
The valves should be okay, but many folks recommend hardened exhaust seats in DO0E heads with today's gas.
You'll either need to convert to screw-in studs/guideplates to use roller fulcrum rockers or use rocker fulcrum roller-tip rail rockers. Not sure if the roller tip rail jobs are available in 1.7.
The valves should be okay, but many folks recommend hardened exhaust seats in DO0E heads with today's gas.
You'll either need to convert to screw-in studs/guideplates to use roller fulcrum rockers or use rocker fulcrum roller-tip rail rockers. Not sure if the roller tip rail jobs are available in 1.7.
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well other then Do0e c im not sure what you mean? im at work right now so cant really take a look, but i will in the morning. also on the casting info link it states that the valves on these heads are supposed to be larger then 302 heads, i compared them to two sets of heads the guy who gave me the engine had and they are the same size one set was off of the ho motor and the other was off of a 76 i think, the combustion chambers are smaller, but the valves appear to be the same. only thing i could think of was that the guy he got his engines/heads from had done some head work and changed them. not sure though. i do have a set of 302 heads but they are on the engine in my truck at the moment. its my daily driver and i was planning to build this engine and drop it in. and like i said i plan to keep the roller cam that came with the engine, i will probably upgrade later on, but for now that saves me somewhere around 5-600$.
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From: Louisville,Ky.
It's not the valves that you worry about with the unleaded fuel, it's the valve seats in the heads that get beat up over time without the lead which was a good lubricant.
Some people add a qt. of auto trans fluid to a tank of fuel to use as lubricant.
I would think if you have a good set of E7TE heads, they would be better in the long run.
Some people add a qt. of auto trans fluid to a tank of fuel to use as lubricant.
I would think if you have a good set of E7TE heads, they would be better in the long run.
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so is that an easy fix? there is a shop up the road from me that is said to do pretty good work, but what kind of price would i be looking at for that?
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The cam not the rockers will dictate the springs you want to use.
If you plan to use true 1.7 roller rockers you will need to take the heads to a machine shop to not only repalce seats and valve guides, but also machine the rocker mounts to accept screw in studs and guide plates, unless that's already been done, and then valve guide boss to accept positive stop seals! If you are talking stamped roller-tipped rockers you can delete the studs and guideplates.
While you are there have them CC the heads for you. Some of them 70 heads are like 60-62CC, which will increase your CR maybe beyond what you want it to be. Over 9.5 on pump gas is the danger zone.
In fact.... you should be able to re-use the springs you are using right now!
Another thing to consider is the mileage on your motor. It will be 45% torn down. If you have over 100K on that engine or even over 50K do a leakdown test. If you are not super tight.... once you bolt on a set of heads with new valveseats and freshly lapped in valves, and possibly smaller chambers on those heads are going to send your rings down to see old hob! You'll be running on three cylinders in three months!
If you plan to use true 1.7 roller rockers you will need to take the heads to a machine shop to not only repalce seats and valve guides, but also machine the rocker mounts to accept screw in studs and guide plates, unless that's already been done, and then valve guide boss to accept positive stop seals! If you are talking stamped roller-tipped rockers you can delete the studs and guideplates.
While you are there have them CC the heads for you. Some of them 70 heads are like 60-62CC, which will increase your CR maybe beyond what you want it to be. Over 9.5 on pump gas is the danger zone.
In fact.... you should be able to re-use the springs you are using right now!
Another thing to consider is the mileage on your motor. It will be 45% torn down. If you have over 100K on that engine or even over 50K do a leakdown test. If you are not super tight.... once you bolt on a set of heads with new valveseats and freshly lapped in valves, and possibly smaller chambers on those heads are going to send your rings down to see old hob! You'll be running on three cylinders in three months!
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so all in all it would be best to take the heads to a shop and have them work them over. im pretty sure that the engine is in good shape, guy said it only had about 65k on it, and all the internals look pretty good.
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D0OE-6049-C casting number
Casting number: D0OE-6049-C = 1969/74 351W
1969/74: Ford part number: D1OZ-6049-B
D10Z-6049-B replaced: C9OZ-A / C9OZ-F / D0OZ-C
Exhaust valve: 5.07" long / 1.54" head diameter / .3414" stem diameter
Intake valve: 5.07" long / 1.84" head diameter / .3419/.3420" stem diameter
1969/74: Ford part number: D1OZ-6049-B
D10Z-6049-B replaced: C9OZ-A / C9OZ-F / D0OZ-C
Exhaust valve: 5.07" long / 1.54" head diameter / .3414" stem diameter
Intake valve: 5.07" long / 1.84" head diameter / .3419/.3420" stem diameter
Last edited by NumberDummy; Dec 31, 2007 at 06:21 AM.
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just get the exhaust seats installed and the push in studs removed and replaced with 3/8 screwin studs.
you can run the rail type rockers as long as the valves have a long enough tip... that would the cheapest way to go. No need for hardened pushrods or guidplates.. I've done it a few times with good results, even with dual springs although I should have gone with 7/16 studs. Or you can run the factory rockers...
the pic below is my setup I have now... it's compcams rail type rockers 3/8 screw in studs Compcams daul springs and some undercut e-bay valves...they have the longer tips like yours should have.
Been running it hard for the last 3 or 4 years no problems... well I broke a few studs...should have gone with 7/16 studs with the springs I used
you can run the rail type rockers as long as the valves have a long enough tip... that would the cheapest way to go. No need for hardened pushrods or guidplates.. I've done it a few times with good results, even with dual springs although I should have gone with 7/16 studs. Or you can run the factory rockers...
the pic below is my setup I have now... it's compcams rail type rockers 3/8 screw in studs Compcams daul springs and some undercut e-bay valves...they have the longer tips like yours should have.
Been running it hard for the last 3 or 4 years no problems... well I broke a few studs...should have gone with 7/16 studs with the springs I used
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Use your 302 pushrods, if you intend to keep your stock cam, don't waste your money on new springs either, I tested my D0OE's and they were good to .560 from the factory and I put in a cam with 522/538 lift and stock rockers (screw in studs though) on the factory springs and wound it to 6500 and they didn't ever float. They do not have hardened valve seats and if you plan to abuse it at all, you will have to run a lead substitute or have hardened seats installed or you will break a valve or sixteen lol. And to be honest with you, I'd stay with a 1.6 rocker it'll cause less issues with your valve adjustment. These guys on here sure like to spend other ppl's money wow.
Cargo Master
Joined: May 2007
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From: British Columbia
I was a bit worried about the unleaded fuel scare years ago since I have a stock 1969 351W in my daily driver. In the end I decided to just keep driving it. I frequently drive it full throttle in second and third, but only up to 4000 or so. So far no problems.
If the exhaust valves start recessing badly then I'll get inserts put in. Or more likely I'll have a stock F4TE engine long block ready to swap in by then.
If the exhaust valves start recessing badly then I'll get inserts put in. Or more likely I'll have a stock F4TE engine long block ready to swap in by then.
Hotshot
Joined: May 2003
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From: south louisiana
Originally Posted by Wreckit87
And to be honest with you, I'd stay with a 1.6 rocker it'll cause less issues with your valve adjustment. These guys on here sure like to spend other ppl's money wow.
And you just got lucky with the springs you reused, most stock Ford valve springs bind at about .530 lift. I doubt the springs you've got are the stockers.